10s4p 30q Samsung (success)

Try to make this thread look clean as possible, doing this through a phone so please bare with me.This is my first time ever building a battery pack. Been using lipo for awhile now and wanted to experience building my own packs. Decided to get (40) Samsung 30q from Liionwholesale and the spot welder from @aulakiria. Goig this route with the battery layout https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/boosted-clone-loaded-vanguard-6355-190kv-10s4p-fiber-glass-enclosure-orangatang-kegel-80a/23213/21?u=mannym0e

Reason being because I also got the enclosure for @Eboosted might decide to put the pack in a boost board clone or just put the pack in my current board, Idk yet… I’m assume this would be the layout if I put this on the clone one IMG_4408

So here’s couple pictures of my process right now IMG_4412 Glued all the cells like this IMG_4388 Now I spot welded into parallel first, positive to positive negative to negative… This took awhile for me since this was my first experience spot welding batteries IMG_4407 Now start spot welding in series image Now i know I’m suppose to fold them and then press but I kinda need help right here. I’ve seen post of where people spot weld a nickel strip and then fold it on side of the battery for the balance cables. The thing is I see them using this thing called “fishpaper” I believe, but I don’t have any of that. Is there anything else I could use instead of that? Like for example some krytop tape on the side of the batter will help ? Some electric tape ? Any advice would be helpful, and please mind this is my first battery pack I’ve ever tried building so please no bashing

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ya u can use electrical tape or kapton if u really wanna ride right away…i used some temporarily on my 12s4p.

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Will it have to be replaced with the fishpaper eventually ?

i dont think so but, i know your trying to do everything by the letter so, if your really adamant about it u can… did u order the fish paper already? I was desperate to ride so i used some tape for a bit. didnt harm anything :wink:

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There is nothing special about fishpaper. It’s better but U just need thick enough paper, so the cell do not short each other under vibration. some fishpaper have mica insulation and waxed for moisture proof, but at that point you may have bigger problem. as long as you insulate with kepton or electric tape, thick paper should be good.

If you want ultimate protection you can look into “Terra Skin” it’s a paper made out of stone. it’s burn and water proof


Fish paper is really important on this kind of battery


  1. Assemble 10 packs of 4-cells together (like your picture)
  2. Assemble 2 5-packs in series
  3. Use fish paper between each pack so they don’t rub
  4. Use fishpaper between the 2 5-packs
  5. If you don’t have fish paper get a plastic folder, cut it in the shape of the 5-pack and stick it in between the 2 5-packs

DO NOT mount the 5-PACK together with just kapoton or you will cause fire


will some sort of cardboard work fine ?

you want to get something like cardstock. cardboard is exceptionally burns well because of air channel they have, stay away.

Fish paper has been specifically designed to not desintegrate with constant rubbing. I m not sure about cardboard, just remember ids these two 5-packs touch each other you will have fire.

It’s very important they don’t touch each other with constant vibrations and rubbing between each other.


Do you think that was what caused your pack to catch fire like almost a year ago?

Even though I could determine the cause, this is highly probable.

Not even a discharge bms could avoid that

Yup there’s so many ways for a 18650 to fail and if one’s going its almost impossible to save the others.

BMS’s IMO are pretty pointless unless they actually let you monitor individual cell voltages and current in current out kinda stuff. If anything it gives you a false sense of security. I trust myself more than I do a 20$ PCB from china.

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I’m going with the cardstock option. Right now put it one the end of all the cells right now



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All my cells are double wrapped in kapton tape give a spacer in between cells and a dab of hot glue on the ends to hold them in place as well as siliconed. Tho I’m not building these packs to be flexible, I’m sure you’ll have much more rubbing. Honestly some of the best protection I’ve seen are those cardboard or plastic rolls for nickels.

Haven’t felt the need for it myself though I’m sure it’d be great for flexible packs.

image Just need balance cables, phase wires, BMS and everything should be good. Measured the volted already everything seems good

Curious here as well, building the same exact battery. Used @Eboosted 's design: Eh0jlOk Currently, with .15 10mm nickel: IMG_4036

I will use the tip from above, the plastic folder between the two separate packs. I also will put some EVA foam in there as well. Foam, plastic, then foam. I plan on adding more katpon. How do you guys make the connection between the two packs? IMG_0581 How many layers should I use? I currently am stacking all the series connections and don’t know how much to add here, or if the bend would change anything.

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So I got the pack together and everything runs fine other then I can’t charge the pack. I wired everything correct like how I did before with my lipo but for some reason it’s not charging. Could I use a voltage meter and stick it in my charger port (it’s the one with 3 pins) negative with negative and positive with positive without causeing a spark? I want to know if it’s my charger port that’s messed up or my BMS that’s messed up

Or you can also heatshrink each side with good rubber heatshrink and then heatshrink the whole package. imageimage


Ayyyy got my it to charge finally. Yea and THANKS for everyone’s help…