12S8P 30q cells experiencing voltage sag?[solved] (fake cells)

Same motors. One of the sensors was DOA so I am one sensored and one not.

never buy batteries from sources you donā€™t know.

60a batt max is still low on a dual emtb. Guys here are running like 120a. I either think there is something wrong in the connections of the pack, or you have got some bad cellsā€¦

@J95hicks :arrow_up: :arrow_down:

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I got mine from liionwholesale.com who certify their cells. Checked all the voltages when I assembled the pack.

i checked all 100 cells upon arrival, they were all within .03v at the correct storage voltage. So idk, they looked good. but idk

that doesnt say much, there are enough batteries with similar capacity but way lower discharge Amps.

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Care to explain. They are supposedly genuine 25r cells which are rated at 20a per. And at <10 they have extreme voltage sag.

that was supposed to be for @J95hicks, dunno about yours.

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sorry to hear that. still hard to believe a 8p pack has extreme sag.

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What temperatures were you riding in? Perhaps the VESC throttled due to high temps?

Yeah unfortunately this isnt how to check for fake cells. both capacity and discharge capabilities are what must be tested, not max v.

Maybe link us to the site/seller? perhaps we can let you know? if not, how much did you pay per cell? sometimes (not always) that can be an indication

Furthermore, if possible, you should try and see the temp of the cells as they are heavily discharged. If theyre 30qā€™s and producing heavy heat at only 8-10amps- bad news for you

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Since you are using NESE modules you can (and should) check every single cell and identify the bad ones or the bad P-packs. I had a similar problem with my tiny 10s3p and found a P pack completely dead and cells different in voltage from the others shortly after charge. I suspect it happens sometimes that the plastic cover of the cells get cut and stuck between cell and plate, causing some cells to not discharge properly. My solution for now is checking everything, chargin every single cell and when reassembling rotating them after insertion. the P pack internal resistance and overall Voltage will also be checked :slight_smile:

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No idea whatā€™s wrong with your battery but the max battery amps are way too low. Increase it to 50-60A each vesc. Which vescs do you use?

Donā€™t change the ABSOLUTE MAX setting! You changed it to 100A. I think the default is 130A if I remember right.

Also I would increase the batt cut off settings a bit.

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Im in Texas, but its was like 65F yesterday when i rode. Im using dual Focbox and dual recievers. Nothing felt even warm to the touchā€¦ as the pic indicates i cant really feel or tell actually battery tempā€¦and how would you actually test for fakes?.. it was last year i bought them, i xant remember where, i think they were $3.50 plus per cell.

Am I the only one thinking that $3.5 per cell sounds a bit low? Might be wrong though.

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That much sag is definitely fake cellsā€¦ 8P 30Q is like 120A on nominal current and 30Q are known to go up to 20A which makes it even up to 160A.

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Yeppers, sounds like fake cells, well great lol. Guess ill just use these for awhile till theyre deadā€¦ unless anyone wants to buy 100 who know what rating cells lol

Also what about range? Because I donā€™t think you measured each cells capacity?

This is why I stick to lipos personally.

If you stick to zippys from hobbyking, you wonā€™t get fakes. And voltage sag is much less than li-ion in general.

Only annoying part can be puffy cells.

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