I should really stop visiting these forums, every time i come here i want to buy new stuff haha
The thing only thing I’m worried about is the battery. I would have liked it if it had replaceable batteries.
I’m sure you could replace it yourself if it goes bad or something. @Kaly any idea what battery this thing uses or if it is easy to replace if it goes bad?
Most of these generic remotes use a 1S battery in about 500-800mah. It’s fairly easy to find a small pack like that to solder on.
it is lipo 3.7V 500mah
Today i encountered 2 issues with the remote
First the remote comes already bind to the receiver, but in some instances the binding process need to be repeated, this is because of the fail safe feature of the receiver that needs to be calibrated. This manifest itself in this situation:
With the board On, if you turn Off the remote, the motors will start spinning without input. This is because the receiver needs to record the NEUTRAL position (mid throttle ) of the remote.
The Binding procedure is as follow:
1).Check and make sure all the wires are connected and that the REMOTE is OFF,insert the bind plug into CH3(Bind) on the RECEIVER.
2).With the REMOTE OFF. Switch on the ESC, to power up the RECEIVER, red LED light will flash.
3).PRESS and HOLD the bind button on the REMOTE and then turn the REMOTE ON.
4).You should notice the REMOTE and RECEIVER LED light go from flashing red to solid red.
5).Once you see a solid red light, the binding process is complete, Then without turning the REMOTE OFF or touching the THROTTLE pull the bind plug out (for the receiver to record the throttle mid point, neutral, to engage the fail safe)
6).Then you can test it again by turning OFF the REMOTE and the RECEIVER LED should flash. By turning the REMOTE ON the RECEIVER LED should go back to solid red.
Before RIDING ,it’s better to test the fail safe function in the RECEIVER ,if the motor didn’t move,so the fail safe function is in good working condition, if the motor is moving,you have to repeat the step No.1- No.6 above
THE OTHER ISSUE IS REGARDING THE ON/OFF SECOND CHANNEL FUNCTION this one was pointed to me by @omaryunus because until then i had not try it yet on my other board with this capability. The issue is that the receiver controlled on/off switch are not working with this function.
I examined the receiver by testing the voltage on all the PINS, and everything was in working order. Then proceeded to test the Signal from the second channel of the receiver. By connecting the receiver second channel to the VESC signal input PIN and connecting everything to the BLDC tool in the PC. Once there went to the App Configuration TAB sub TAB PPM, then check the box for the display pulsewidth (ms) here:
Turned the switch ON/OFF multiple times and the VESC register input from the receiver, the VESC seems to be registering 55% of the pulse but it was registering it even after the switch was off so don’t know what is that about. Most of the receiver controlled switch will complete a circuit when the radio channel passes 50% so far i don’t know why this behavior but i emailed the manufacturer and will report later.
@Kaly do you still have another?
Hey Kaly, I noticed the same thing but I was able to calibrate it using the trim control with a tiny screwdriver. These settings worked for me to match neutral on transmitter off. I LOVE this little controller.
Minimum Pulsewidth (ms) 1.12 Maximum Pulsewidth (ms) 2.08
K… Thanks for the incredibly quick shipping! Any recommendation for the best way to wire up the receiver?
Normal receiver installation just use a ferrite ring
Any of these left?
Right now no more remotes I got another Bach coming in a week or 2.
@Kaly Quick question, how/where is ferrite ring/toroid installed? I assume this is on deck (my remote is tx only), but my esc and receiver are tightly configured with less than an inch of ribbon wire between. Is that where it goes, or antenna? This is way outside my wheelhouse! Do you have a picture of an install so I can make room and copy? Thanks!
You need to wrap the ESC-receiver wire around the ring. That will clean the signal and prevent any drop from the remote.
This is a good examples
Hmmm, so to be clear if the wiring connecting my ESC to receiver is only 1" long (because the transmitter is basically sitting on the flip side of ESC pcb with a heatsink ontop) in constrained space, then I am SOL? Would adding length to that wiring just to wrap around ferrite improve or worsen the situation, because you are increasing wiring where there was very little wiring potentially being interfered with?
IMO you can add Leight to the wire by just enough to wrap it around the ferrite and will improve the situation by eliminating the noise in the signal.
This are really small ones https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JFOR33E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Awesome, great minds think alike as those are the exact rings I bought from Amazon a few hours ago figured for $5 it was worth a try lol.
Thanks, will give it a shot.
Please let us know when you get more of these. I would like to buy one
@Kaly got it
Glad I got to snipe the last one bro