Oh yeah I saw that video. Crazy! My electric uni should have a theoretical top speed of 40 but I don’t ever plan to do more than 25 MPH. Hopefully that will eliminate any worry if something like this happening.
on a unicycle, when one wheel loses traction in a straight line, the rider can skate (coast) over things - you just don’t want to slide sideways (when turning)
on EUC, when you see a patch of sand or water, the key is to stand up straight, without any acceleration or regenerative braking - and try to ‘float’ over the obstacle.
else, the wheel can lose traction and, if accelerating, the EUC will street the rider. beep beep and the Gotway SuperX is just 2000W.
If you want to do something custom, check out Bel & Bel in Barcelona - they’re at the cutting edge of custom EUC. https://www.instagram.com/belybel_artworks/
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Wow! That is beautiful! I had no idea something of that caliber existed for electric unicycles!
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I want to see this happen! I love both my EUCs and my Eskates but an EUC is just more practical in everyday life, take the board out for group rides and for looking cool 
, EUCs for everything else
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Seriously. Lol.
Everyone looks at me funny when I say respect the beep / click depending on the product, but they don’t end up pushing it’s limits all the way 
No one wants to street face
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+10000 for the ATHF dub on that vid 
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What exactly is meant by “push back”. Does that mean the wheel ramps up throttle to give the feeling of pushing back against you while your leaning forward?
I’m analyzing some open source self balancing code, I found a file called “kickback” and it seemed to ramp up or down depending on if the unicycle was in its balanced state or not.
What I can do is have it beep loudly at 3000W. That is the continuous rated current. However, the motor can burst up to 4800W for up to 10 sec, so I should still be safe at 3000W contiuous. I doubt I will ever get even close to that much power anyways.
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And that would let you know to lean backward before the controller cuts lower to protect itself from over current.
Sorry for weird out of order comments.
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No so, basically, how I figure the pedals push back is they have their own motor that engages itself in the pedals and changes them from this position (over acceleration) \ to the equilibrium –
E: Push back, in this case, is defined as the pedals readjusting under you to help you decrease speed
E E: added the N to hopefully establish the fact that the uni isnt moving, the pedals are
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I think you should have it beep at 15 and 20 mph, but how are you going to do the foot pedals, are they going to be motorized like the Ninebot One C+s? Or are you hoping to go a more simple route
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As a simple explanation as to what 3 means on the picture that Im convinced they use Current and RMP/ERPM to operate the pushback / motorized pedal cutout
Under full battery, the device can take any sort of “pull” that you throw at it, doesnt give an overspeed beep or even a overtilt beep.
Under a certain %, I find the ‘yellow’ zone is where this happes: the cycle starts to beep like crazy at the smallest nudge of power (overtilt, over speed AND overcurrent)
^^ IMHO, This is the largest issue with the Ninebot One
If i could uncap my ninebot, I would. I dont give a fuck about the range or the negative battery wear, I would rather use it than have it sit in my closet collecting sleepytime dust
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I was really hoping I could go a more simple route. I really don’t need to implement push back in my own design I think as long as I don’t go crazy accelerating. Like I said, I’m never going to actually hit 3000W. Implementing battery warning beeps is easy too to prevent low voltage cutoff.
I think you should think in terms of ERPM / RPM instead of Wattage, not that wattage is bad, but just remember that Wattage varies at different speeds and that its entirely dependent on “startup”( as you begin to move) wattage.
Ever see a video of an EMTB that uses a VESC overlay? If they JAM the throttle, the wattage and amperage sohots up until the ESC doesnt need to keep the constant wattage and amperage up to maintain your speed.
E: this information is NOT APPLICABLE to the VESC while its in wattage mode, as thats completely different
Well the only option I have of controlling a speed controller is 0-5v input. I think I kind of have to roll with that. The speed controller has a sufficient E RPM limit that I am not worried about reaching.
There may be someone on the electric unicycle forum who is doing an open source speed controller, but that sounds like an endeavor that will take some time, even with me writing the code.
I agree its going to be tricky, but if youre up for it youre up for it 
Do you plan on using some sort of pressure pads?
E: I dont mean that you would hit the MAX RPM of your controller, but rather you set a speed that you dont want to exceed (RPM corelates with a simple equation) so that once the controller hits that, the speed is gently throttled down or something
It really comes down to developing a formula to take the angle from the IMU and output a 12 bit number that represents a voltage from 0-5v for the DAC converter.
Then I should just be able to feed that into the kelly speed controller. I would let the speed controller deal with it from there. I wouldn’t bother setting a max ERPM set by the speed controller, I just won’t accelerate past where I am comfortable.