Yeah that thing looks awesome, considering you are the only one with it… I dunno maybe try the 300kv see what it does
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If you are able to keep the rpm low enough mechanically to stay around 60k erpm…might be interesting
Yeah I saw other people on the forum created this thing, but I wanted to create my own since there are no place to buy them and they are expensive AF to buy, but not to make. So I created my own with not watching the other concept because I want to be proud of it 
So I will make the gear holder, gear and the whole planetary gear very soon in the CNC class, but the teacher says using a 3d program to make toolpath uses to much time, so I gotta hand program the coordinates in the machine, which is a pain in the ass.
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I’m curious to see how it handles the torque deficit
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I would still have some spare drvs and fets around just incase 
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He could do vesc6 with 100k ERPM limit. Not budget friendly unless you have no budget
Vesc 6 erpm limit is over 150 if I remember correctly, diff motor would be cheaper
People are using the FOC box on eBikes at near 100k erpm. I havent seen anyone above 60K om them with esk8’s though.
Ive spun my 350KV motors to just over 100K erpm on my VESC6’s as well. Ive heard 150K tested for the VESC6 as well.
I run 190kv on 12s on full load with focboxes, never had issues
I have seen another build like this that used a 300kV motor I think he used a 1:3 reduction. Here’s the build
So your intent is to do a planetary gear as well? If so your higher kV motor would help make up for the gear reduction but you are still dealing with ERPM limits. Not planning on the traditional hub motor or belt style?
What’s your intended battery, gear ratio, and motor kV currently planned? I’ve read back through. Trying to see what your current intent is so you can get to your intended top speed
Nice! Another planetary gearbox but I am very interested in how it turns out. How are you going to build it? The biggest motor I could fit was a 42mm (45mm actually but there is not 45mm out runner) because of the bearings.
Something I did not say in my topic is that the oil lubrication of the gearbox failed. The oil seals are giving to much friction. Therefore, I will use grease instead.
Also interested in how you going to program a gear by hand because a good gear is not a simple curve and the size is small. My gears have a radius of 0.3mm.
I hope you will make a build of it!
@Frank we have a lathe where I can use a gear module to cut it out. All I have to do is divide 360 degrees on teeth number to find out how much I have to turn the material to cut the gears.
i dont want to put your design down but how are you going to make this:
also are you only going to use a 1 bearing for the “wheel” at the back and in the front you will use the gears?
at least wat is the air gap between the motor and the “wheel” mount/ringgear
Nah, please be honset so I can make it better.
About that gear, I dont really know… But I will find a way. Between there it is 0.1mm, so you say it will be friction there and I should have made it fixed with the motor so it will always be a gap between the gear holder and the motor gear? But I could make the bearing of the motor come half way out so you “connect” the motor gear on it. I was thinking of using a screw on the side of one of the poles that goes inside the motor to lock it.
Axle goes inside there and the Gear Holder will be fixed and not move outwards after screwed in.
Well, I had some others design ready, but they where for a smaller motor. This you see now is what I made for 2 hours ago…
to be honest I don’t think you can make the part that way. I made the same part out of 2 pieces and press fit it together but in your design, it will be impossible because of the small back plate.
0.1mm is way to less. To turn it by hand it will be fine but then something else will come. Eddy current (not an electrical expert or something but this is told to me) when you place something to close to your motor it will work as a brake (eddy current brake). In this case, it will be bigger than just a plate because your outer ring is also turning in the opposite direction. This will make your wheel a massive brake for your motor. What will result in lots of heat within minutes.
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I will make a bigger gap, but I think I solved the issue with getting a fixed gear.
Its possible to machine both part now.
The gap between the outer ring and the motor is 3 mm, so it will create a lot of heat when braking then…
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From Vedder’s site: “2. Change the KV of the motor. Yes, this can be done quite easily without rewinding the motor. Almost all outrunners are connected using a delta-connection. By removing the heatshrink of the motor wires, they can be split up and reconnected in a star-connection. This reduces the KV by a factor of sqrt(3) = 1.73. For this modification, we can use a motor with a KV of 188 * sqrt(3) = 325. There are several hobby motors available close to that KV, so that is no problem. I have tested this modification on several motors and it works really well.” http://vedder.se/2014/10/chosing-the-right-bldc-motor-and-battery-setup-for-an-electric-skateboard/
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