34" Mini Cruiser | Dual 6354 | 10s3p | Caliber 44s

Planning a 34" mini cruiser rebuild. This will be an improvement to my 34" hub board that I rode this past season. I rode that board a ton and and sadly the wheels are already pretty worn. So, I figured I could make a pretty decent board on a budget that would have a few improvements.

So far the components will be:

-34" double kicktail skateshred deck (I really liked this deck on my last build so I’m using it again)

-10s3p 30q

-2x BKB 6354 190kv

-2x boardnamics mounts

-80mm kegels

-Raw Caliber 44s

-12mm 16t/36t gearing

The enclosure for this will be an experiment. Planning to vacuum form my own.


Not sure if I’m going to use the TB vescs. The form factor for 4.12 is really inconvenient. I don’t really want to use anything else though because it would be overkill. Still to be determined.


Going forward with the TB vescs, I designed a mount that would position the phase wires as low as possible to fit on the back of the board. Unfortunately sensor detection failed on the master. The problem is isolated to the master vesc so I can’t even run it in hybrid. I only used these for one season in BLDC mode, so thats a bit of a bummer. Looks like I will have to use a pair of focbox’s for the last time (so long focbox you were the perfect size esc).

image (if anyone in the US is interested in these let me know and I will let them go cheap, senor detection worked on the slave).


Fortunately progress has been made on the enclosure. As I said before the plan was to vacuum form my own. The most difficult thing about that for me is producing the mold buck. I don’t really have a workshop or space to make a lot of dust so woodworking was out.

Thinking, I went ahead and designed one in Solidworks. I measured all of the parts and curvature of the deck to get a perfect fit.

image …but how to make it

Against the better judgement of online tutorials and my colleagues I decided to 3D print one (out of PLA nonetheless). Expecting it not to survive, I covered it with a layer of bondo and sanded that smooth. After that I used some denatured alcohol mixed with two part epoxy. This helps to thin the epoxy enough so that it can be brushed on smooth. The result was a hard glossy coating, although this was only used as an extra measure and may have not made much difference.

I took some notes from @psychotiller thread about vacuum forming enclosures for the rest of the assembly.


I 3D printed the vacuum inlets; I ended up using my shop vac and house vac combined. Super easy and very quick for a perfect fit.


The first go was promising, although I had some major webbing in one corner. I think I went too fast and didn’t take the extra seconds to get a good alignment. You can also see that I had to make some relief cuts to get the mold out. Don’t forget to use your mold release, whoops.


Fortunately, after some quick repairs the mold was good for at least one more shot. It definitely suffered as I could see some of the infill pattern on the surface as the plastic drooped. A quick smooth over with bondo and it was ready to go again.

For the second try I made sure to have another set of hands to help. I also had a soaking towel ready in the freezer to help cool the plastic faster.


The result is near perfection and with mold release the mold just dropped right out.

So I am happy to say that it is possible to use a 3D printed mold for vacuum forming ABS!

Some notes about the setup:

-1/8in ABS sheet used -Standard kitchen oven used middle rack (getting replaced soon anyway) -Temp set at 300° and baked the ABS for about 8mins (about 5-6in of droop on a 23in x 17in area) -3D printed mold used 3 layers on the sides, top and bottom. 20% infill

I borrowed a bandsaw to cut out the enclosure then traced out the foam gasket.


Used threaded inserts again. These are a pain to use and not very cheap. image

The electronics all came together very snugly. I routed the phase wires through a printed riser so they’d be lower profile. I also ended up using printed wheel pulleys and 90mm clones. The kegels didn’t offer enough clearance with the @Boardnamics mounts.


Overall came together pretty well. I’ll have to do more test runs when there’s a warm day. Haven’t gripped it yet either. Got a laser coming, so that’ll be fun.



All looks good. You can model an enclosed, 3d print it. Use it as mold for vac form or just cover it in fiber glass or carbon fibre to make it strong.

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Was considering a 3d printed mold buck. Not sure if an ABS mold would last with the heat. Maybe coating it with something.

Love the build so far. Where’d you get the 10s3p from? What’s the total cost, and how much does the board weigh in total?

Aren’t they though? Pain how it all comes out the same way. Actually all the 4.12 are a pest to incorporate into a build because they are too long, except the focbox. They just slip in there all sweet.
Big sale coming up but if its still too pricey for you then use the tb’s they are a great vesc and comparable to anything else in the same price bracket.

That’s why I chopped mine up, still works the same just an easier form factorimage


@ Psmrman90 Came from DHgate, was pretty cheap. I’ll post up a link later once I can test it. Opened it up and looks legit. Cost should be around $900 usd total

@ dareno too bad the Flipsky mini dual has problems. I’m going to try slimming the length on the phase wires by printing a part that will mount and angle them 90° off the end of the battery pack. 10ga wire on these TB vescs is pain to solder though, can barely get my 50w weller hot enough.


I got a dual 150a esc from APS if that interests you any.

One of the first things I bought way back when was a decent soldering iron and all the extra hands etc. Makes it so much easier. Love to have a go at some small stuff but I drink too much. :grimacing:

Do you have an update about the battery pack, is it legit? And which seller did you buy it from?

The battery appears to be legit and the seller really wanted to drive that point. Still not confirmed as I haven’t finished the board. I probably won’t get a ride in until spring anyway, unless I travel somewhere warm. Can’t be sure until I can test the amp delivery and range.

I removed the battery from its original box. I took a pic of the inside before reshrinking. I noticed the cells had printing under the main sleeve which is a good sign.


It was pretty well sealed/dampened and I didn’t see any glaring issues. Balance leads could be better, but I reconfigured those anyway. I had to move the neg lead on the batt display so that it would turn on with the main switch (vs being independent from that).


Communication with the seller was great and shipping time wasn’t too bad (not to mention free) so I took the chance. Just be warned as there are definitely fake cells being sold on DHgate.

Here’s the link to the seller.

And some pics he sent during the construction (i bought two):


Thats promising, thanks for the follow up! If you can remember, let me know after youve had a chancr to test it, I may buy one in the future.

Short test run was very torquey, still too wet and cold though. I need a name for this thing. Now having a laser engraver I have to think of some ideas.



Ha! Does play off the tongue well. But I don’t want the name to become ironic someday. Need good luck for this one, first one that feels fully custom.

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Can I ask where your wheel pulley and motor pulley are from? Thinking about setting up a very similar drive train.

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motor pulley is just a regular 16 tooth htd5 12mm. Like one of these https://www.ollinboardcompany.com/product/16t-htd5-12mm-motor-pulley

the wheel pulleys are just printed abs from a link on the forum. We’ll see how they hold up. I might try some exotic filaments.

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Cool, :+1: I’ll print mine from ABS too, thanks

Had one nice day back in December when the temperatures were warm enough for a lap around town, about 4 miles with heavy acceleration. Battery was right around 75% after- gotta say I’m happy with that.