That’s really the only option with this helmet if you want to allow the visor to slide up. Side mount light
The vast majority of my riding is done at night due to the nature of my jobs. And I find myself going down a lot of unlit streets. I’ve got shred lights and a small light on my remote. But I want more, especially considering the Board im building is going to go much faster than the board I have
This one is pretty dope. It’s small too.
A mount with a flat bottom (for Velcro tape) top side mimics shape of the rail on a rifle. Would allow any flashlights intended for rifles, on to a helmet with Velcro.
Anyone interested in buying a Creality CR-10 3d printer? I bought it recently, only used a few times. I just don’t really have the time or space. it’s practically new and i have 5 rolls of PLA and 1 roll of ABS. if interested PM me an offer…thx
If you put the probes in the circle you should be safely over the 8mm heads on 30Q. The underside has a 10mm notch to try to hold the strip in place. Added little cutouts help position the nickel.
I’ll have to remember to have someone make me some of these when me and my buddy finish the workshop space for the spot welder & start building our first packs
Great idea! Keep the probes exactly where they need to go.
I’ve remixed your design with gaps to have 10mm nickel strip at 90 degrees for those of us using fuse welding techniques.
damn so fast!
that’s awesome. now we need a way to cut strips uniformly and quickly lol
Gave me something to do at lunch time
Guys I have an ender-3 printer and have a problem that the printer cant print circles very goodly: it makes a sort of ellips instead of an circle.
I dont know if anybody here is familiar with it, I am researching atm on other sites (maybe x and y don’t work good together or something)
Check your belt tention and any moving part on that axis (or both), also if any screw is loose.
Other than that check ender-3 reddit, facebook groups (…) about your problem (when it’s common you will find fast help).
If the ellipse is consistent across prints and not totally random, that just means you need to calibrate your X/Y/Z axes. You need to calibrate your printers axes anyways if you want any kind of dimensional accuracy from your prints to begin with. Start with a calibration cube- Google how to calculate the new values, you probably want to get a good set of calipers if you don’t have them already.
I’m thinking, a jig that holds a sharpie or a scratch awl… Then scissors/tinsnips
mmmmmmmm (still stumped)
This is excellent, do you you think it would be a major ball ache to remix and have the notch for 12mm strips too?
Anyone in the UK able to 3D print something for as a favour?
Its for prototypes for the gear drive I am making.
Not a problem if the printer will handle it. Drop me a PM.
At your service. Added to the thingiverse.