3D Printables for ESkate

I designed/modified your motor mount bushing to for a Surf Rodz TKP HEX hanger, a bit on the tight side but that might be caused by imperfections or slight shrinkage.

A bit sanding (heating the hanger to 150°C and smoothing the prints inside might also be an option) or maybe a slight horizontal scale adjustment by 0,5-1% might do the trick3DP%20bushing%20on%20TKP%20HEX 3DP%20TKP%20HEX%20mount%20bushing%20 Bottom%203DP%20mount%20bushing%20TKP%20HEX .

The little setscrew that the Surf Rodz use doesn’t work with this mount because it’s so wide but it’s better to use locktide on the axel anyway, so no big deal.

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Anyone (@b264 ?) got pics on the wiring? I think I’m gonna do this on the next build. I really like this voltmeter because of the button to switch volt vs percentage, but never wanted to mount it because its too large of a hole to cut in an enclosure.

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Yep, wiring pics will help tremendously. I reread mmaners post so many times but it wouldn’t click logically in my head. I ended up buying winflys alternative suggestion but I have a spare voltmeter that I could play around once we get some visual aids.

Everything is wired in parallel.

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The voltmeter positive and the plug positive and the jack positive are all connected with 20AWG wire.

The voltmeter negative and the plug negative and the jack negative are all connected with 20AWG wire.

I used JB Weld 8265-S but @mmaner 3D-printed an enclosure.

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Cool thanks. Nice little tool. I still have a couple of these volt meter. I will give it a try.

This guy is our dear friend @LEE if I’m not mistaken.

@GarrettL excuse me but I found some problems on the 63xx 3dprintable mount.

I finally managed it to find the time to print one side of the mount, in PC-ABS (very solid, couldn’t flex it at all by hand, I printed it in 0.4 mm layers 60% infill but 6 mm walls so nearly solid).

But I quickly found out . 63xx%20motor%20exept%20SK3%20doesnt%20fit . that the SK3 you use has a non standard can diameter and so does your model.

At first I was really confused and thought crazy how tight you designed this and how much my print shrinks but I checked the .STL by importing it into fusion->converting into brep and measuring the model.

STL%20mount%20measure only 60 mm, than I checked hobbykings dimensions for the SK3s and … yep only 59 mm so these may work but most 63xx motors won’t! Like mine which is basicly an APS motor (same factory). Same story for any 63xx maytech motor and it’s rebrands. Both need more or less 63 mm clearance as the 63xx implies. APS%20-%20maytech%2063xx

A quick and dirty “fix” like this would workquick%20and%20dirty%2063xx%20fix but I would appreciate an updated version which accommodates for 63 mm motor cans (you know with the same wall thickness of 3.5 mm as before). I also wondered why the elongated screw holes when you can’t slide the motor in the mount to adjust the belt tention :thinking:

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That’s interesting. I designed the mount for the SK3 motor and when used in conjunction, it has enough movement in the screw slots to adjust belt tension. I don’t have a maytech motor handy, but I can rev the design using the specs you attached. Might take me a few days to get it posted. Thanks for the input!

Does anyone have access to the stl of that loopkey that fit into the cutout on a hummie deck? I’ve been trying to find it for ages and to no avail.

I recently got some 97mm wheels for my BKB mount, but unfortunately, the belt cover on thingivese didn’t work with such big wheels. I made space for some bigger wheels and I thought I would share it with you.

It was my first time working with 3D designing software so it could be more accurate, but it gets the job done (not tested yet)

Original design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2246770

97mm wheel design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3572032

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Great of you sharing this with us. But one question: How reliable is the copper braid?! Isn’t it likely that it can short the battery when one string gets loose?

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On the negative side, it doesnt matter. On the positive side, as long as you install correctly: braid, shield, 18650 paper ring and the tighten it down. There’s should be no loose copper wire sticking out. Alternatively you can solder the ends shut, so no fray.

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Dude thank you. Just got a printer recently. Have a haya, and am buying 30t’s. Gives me options on how to wire.

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Not sure if you can fit 30Ts in the HAYA but I did made a custom sanyo cell holder for @neiru37. Still waiting for he to test it. It’s a NESE type box and lid design but with braid and smaller.

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Photo credit: @neiru37

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This on the haya deck. So I think it should be ok? How thicc dem wallz?

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Also COOL!! Might have to bug you for those files when the time comes?

T H I C C

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