I have something like this.
I have a Creality CR-10 on the way and would like to print out a couple sets of these wheels however the printer doesn’t have an enclosure so ABS won’t work without that, I know I can make an enclosure but the fumes of ABS worry me as well. Is there any product that I can print with that will be strong enough without using an enclosure? I did see someone used Colorfabbpha/pla but then I just found this test of that product.
Just try it with PLA and report back - they have performed so well for me that I can see them work in PLA as well. If they don’t it’s not like you wasted a lot of money
Did u use ABS? Do think its worth using nylon or petg/cf?
I used ABS+ (it was a Stratasys printer)
Yeah I’m curious too…have access to a makerbot replicator + at the school I’m at and getting a tevo tornado for me but really interested in printing hubs for pnuematic wheels as well. I’ll let you all know how PLA holds up…so from what I’m reading shows it should be similar to ABS or nylon.
Great man!. I am waiting on a tevo tornado myself and will also try out these
Nice - looking forward to how they perform.
Like the looks from your hub. But be careful. there’s very thin walls where the screw holes are
Looks better Is it PLA?
They call it (ZORTRAX) Z-ultrat and I belive it’s mainly ABS with some other stuff. It’s quite strong. This was just a quick print to see how it will look like. I plan to make them from alu. Maybe my son can use it as he is small and light
What size bolts are you using on your hubs? Gonna buy hardware today.
You can pre-anneal the PLA which would help offset any shrinkage if done afterwards
Wouldn’t that impact the print quality…I feel like that is asking for trouble. If I have my printer dialed in for a particular filament, changing the properties of said filament might cause problems…slight increase to print size will offset the post print annealing and make the print as a whole stronger I think…maybe I’m just talking out my butt but this is what my thinking is.
M5 Bolts and nuts - if I remember right they were 50mm length. You better measure them again to be safe
Well yes that was his approach - scale the print out so that a post-print anneal brings back to the desired end size.
I’m actually not too sure if pre-annealing is viable…so set me to ignore, this is a cool topic though
I have no idea. I would be weary.