3D Printed Hub for 6inch pneumatics on caliber trucks

Here’s a thought, since they are 6" hubs in theory they should be (or could easily be made to be) compatible with those diyelectric thane wheels that @mmaner has on the nice but expensive six shooter hubs

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there’s no way my junky printer will successfully print that, if someone wants to mail me on Ill test it.

Have some, will try once all printed

Problem is slippage - pneumatics are super tight due to the air pressure in the tube and don’t slip. The airless tires might slip because the fit needs to be perfect to result in large enough friction. I’d love for someone to try it though

Sound advice and warning! For now I’m concentrating on building with bigger pneumies 8/9" since I live in a offroad environment

@Maxid When designing the hub, How did you know What width you should use? Did you just use 50mm as the tires are 50mm wide? I am doing the same thing now, just for some 8" tires.

I took a caliper and went to town on those bad boys.

@monkey32 any feedback?

What exactly do you mean with “went to town”? English isnt my first language, haha. Should the width of the hub be the same as the tire?

No time. Realized I had 5 board and zero in operational state so first priority …

Ridable then pnuematics

I have printed up a set of these hubs for science.

Any tips on getting rid of wobble? The bearings are in pretty tight, had to increase the hole size a bit after printing with a dremel.

havent printed the hubs myself (yet) but it sounds like you have to calibrate your printer.

The printer is calibrated.

But I have read it’s a common thing for holes to be slightly smaller than the dimensions? Or maybe I have been listening to the wrong people.

I’m using CURA as a slicer.

mmmm, looking into the issue now it seems perfect sized holes are possible. I need to do a combination of silcer configs, I will re-check the calibration and belts too once I have an afternoon to dedicate to it.

depends on what you are printing with. PLA shrinks for roughly 1-3%, ABS even more. cant remember the exact numbers but thats what google is for :slight_smile: so if you print them you might want to enlarge the object slighty.

ABS so shrinkage is also a factor.

man it’s the 21st century, where is my replicator already…

i was actualy addressing the wobble part. i dont know the stl but if its a perfect round shape with wholes or anything on one side only, it shouldnt wobble. that why I was thinking about not beeing calibrated properly

sorry I should have been more clear, I’m sure it’s the way the bearings are sitting in the hubs, I can get them not too bad by putting the hub on the truck and tapping gently with a hammer. It could be I was a bit too slap dash with the dremel and there are some bits of plastic keeping the bearing from being exactly flush.

It’s going to be hard to get printed wheels running true but all bets are off if you go in with a hand tool in fairness, ask the 8mm motor pulley I drilled out to 10mm for an APS motor

Not really…

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Depends on what your definition of true is, I’m used to looking at runout on 17" wheels @250km+ there will be more deviation on printed wheels over forged or even injection moulded wheels period.

However yeah 4 * 6" wheels @50km would not be as noticeable granted. Would like to see these little uns on a wheel alignment machine for the laugh