Just pull the handles off the clip
“Buildtak” people… does wonders. No tape, no abs juice no enclosure even. For about $10usd give it a try. Get mine from micro center
While at it get the buildtak spatula
Try printing igus… its a lubricant and can imagine how hard it is to get it to stick.
I use the same enclosure but with PLA. It broke on me so I’m looking at kydex sheets now.
PETG is no picnic to glue either. Also what does the bottom sides of your prints look like with all the abs juice, seems so thick your print size/scale would be off (nothing against what works tho, just curious).
(could only view with phone earlier, now at home)
Just like I’m curious to know if anybody airbrushes out their ABS prints with acetone on a turntable (<not record/45 player)???
I use E3D Edge. This stuff is by far the nicest filament to print with out of my experience using PLA ABS and PETG. I used it for my enclosure, and it works fantasticly.
Check out their website. This filament is equally strong in all orientations and will not delaminate at 100% infill. It is very stiff until it yeilds, but from my testing will not easily crack. It also can have solvents used as glue. I haven’t tried acetone, but I used acrylic cement (just a plain solvent) and it worked great.
I also used this for my wheel pulleys. After months of use, no signs of wear besides from pebbles.
If I print it flat it’s not as strong as iI would print it vertical? can you explain me why? 
IF you printi it flat it’s easier to print and also abs will work. It is recommended if you want ot use it as a mold but by doing in this way your layer would be parallel to the skate and so to the weight and gravity increasing a lot the chances of layer separation. IF you print it vertically then your layers are perpendicular to the main vector force and so way stonger…Print it like this
Okay thanks 
I disagree. In that orientation, if your deck flexes at all, you’re very likely to crack the enclosure. That oritentation is also very bad for bolts that go through it, tightening them too much will easily crack the print and delaminate through the bolt hole.
I printed mine horizontal, with thick 3/4 inch side walls 100% infill, and it is holding up well. No cracks, and the enclosure is 20 inches long. It’s so strong that it prevents the deck from flexing, and it only dips 1 inch below the bottom of the deck.
Bending perpendicular to layers is strong. Compression and tension perpendicular to layers is okay ish. Tension and compression parallel to layers is great.
Shear and bending forces parallel to layers is very very bad.
Just keep these forces in mind when deciding what orientation to print. Some enclosures will benefit from one orientation, while others will be the contrary.
As a general rule of thumb for printing structural esk8 parts, print at a high heat to ensure complete adhesion, and up your extrusion multiplier slightly to ensure good Infill and adhesion. I highly recommend using 100% infill, but also 4-6 wall layers. It also helps to increase your later thickness and width at the cost of surface finish. My enclosure is 0.3mm thick, 0.5 mm wide, using a .35mm diameter extruder.
I have never broken an enclosure, even after slamming my board directly into a concrete wall at 20mph.
As you said depends on the deck. Mine is a stiff deck and the main stress is applied vertically on the enclosure. That’s why print it in that orientation will improve the strength. Anyhow in both the orientation you will have a weak point. I agree with what you said about infill ecc… I will also say that filament like PETG at 100% infill is still flexible, which helps to absorb vibration. Moreover another important factor is to fix all you component (at least the battery to the deck) otherwise I doubt a 3D printed enclosure will last enough longer.
