The new Space Cell enclosure should fit. I’m a little lazy to do the math conversions but here’s the specs on my custom one:
Exterior Measurements: L: 20" W: 8" H: 2" Internal Measurements: L: 17.75" W: 5.25" H: 1.75"
it;s only length i was concerned with. mine’s 21ish inches. guess i’ll find out soon enough
Bought a skateboard deck, will try it out in the next week… For now I got this issue… Not sure if it’s battery, vesc or (most likely) motor related. My motor had a short circuit a few days ago, but luckily an electrician eskater lives around the corner from me and kindly fixed it. Everything worked perfectly last night. I left my space cell plugged in till the green light popped up which I try to avoid. I watched a couple Casey videos and it made me want to go skate, I carried my board 90% down my hill and rode it down the rest using the brakes to stop. Seemed to work ok. When I applied power I hardly moved and it’s been the same since… The only wheel that moves only moves slightly, and it’s connected to the slave vesc. https://youtu.be/hmf-B8Wm5aU Here’s some bldc tool stuff to check for fault codes https://youtu.be/a6M9_a1b0oU
to confirm it’s the actual motor I would remove the slave/master configuration and go with single for now. It’s odd that vesc that’s actually delivering power to a motor is only showing a duty cycle of 4-5% and the other is showing 95% (I’m assuming you have the remote at full throttle).
So first setup Vesc 1 with motor 1 test then Vesc 1 with motor 2 test then Vesc 2 with motor 1 test then Vesc 2 with motor 2 test
That will help eliminate a lot of possibilities. Also do a motor detection with those tests on top of using your remote. Do not use any Can bus setup though.
Thanks for the reply @racidon . I tried doing what you told me to do (it’s almost 3am, i made some silly mistakes in the video like not writing configuration, just ignore that for a sec) here’s what happened (watch only up to 4 minutes unless you wanna cringe): This is Vesc 1 with both motors https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfWJhryBdTk Then you can watch this for vesc 2 with both motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFZXdrlVbQA Finally I put the canbus wire back in just to see what effect the canbus has: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2ZONUwfrGY So from what i gather, both vescs are fine 1 motor is fine, the other has some serious issues which probably have to do with shorting out a couple days ago the canbus may be playing up
thanks for your help I should sleep, I look forward to your thoughts on this, please dont make fun of me not being able to set up a remote 
[quote=“Luke, post:113, topic:2912, full:true”]…Too much to quote 
[/quote]
Hey mate, what I say you can take with a grain of salt because I have probably just as much experience with eboards and the like as you do. However from what I can see your problem might be a broken connection in your “dodgey” motor (the one that wouldn’t move).
Why does your other one spaz out with the canbus? Without knowing how these systems work, I’d say for obvious reasons the VESC will try to balance the speed of other motors it has slaved/mastered up with to prevent one going at a super high speed in comparison to another. So there’s no other motor connected according to the other vesc and thus it reduces your duty cycle when slaved up. That’s why the good motor works fine on both VESCs without the canbus. An example would be a parent crossing the road with their child, although they might take steps no faster than that of the child, their steps will take them further and thus a parent needs to reduce the rate at which they walk so they don’t end up dragging the child across the road.
What might be the problem here? I would be willing to bet that it is likely a burnt out or broken phase wire for your dodgey motor or it’s seized (more likely the first). How can you check this easily? Try to turn it by hand, does it feel the same as your other one? aka not harder to turn in comparison? If no you still have a short, but I doubt this as I would assume this would kill your DRV like it did mine
If yes then lets test all 3 phase wires, this step please note that you are essentially shorting the motor out, so nothing electrically sensitive should be hooked up to the motor at the time. Join 2 of the phase wires together temporarily and try to turn the motor by hand, does it get harder when they are joined? (No - you have a broken connection in one of these wires) Do this so you test all combinations
Lets call them phase 1 2 and 3
join 1 and 2 join 1 and 3 join 2 and 3
try all three and report your findings
btw the videos like this help ALOT so good work
Hey, I will wait till I have some that knows what they’re doing to do that with me. @blair will be able to describe the issue perfectly as he is the one that fixed the short originally. The broken motor is slightly harder to turn, but when it originally shorted it had brakes on full. Blair said that a little more resistance is to be expected as its lived a harder (2 week) life. I will do the try tests described on Friday if a family friend is available to supervise
How did you go Luke?
Hey I haven’t been able to meet up with people that know what they’re doing yet. I can probably set up a livestream for people to check what I’m doing so I don’t shock myself/my equipment. I’m just reading this thread, can you see this being what would be necessary?
I was hoping to do that when we did the original fix but the wires disappear into epoxy making it a lot harder
@racidon If you meant touching the bullet connectors together and doing that test, I tried those combinations today and the motor didn’t get any harder to spin at any point. The motor wasn’t connected to the vesc or anything I just touched the bullets together… Not sure if that’s what you asked me to do
Yes that’s what I meant. If you also do this test on your other motor you will notice that it becomes harder to turn. If the “broken” motor is no where near harder to turn in comparison to your working one I would say it has broken phase wires somewhere. If it is the same as the “broken” motor then your broken motor is still shorting.
1 Like
Ok will try tomorrow, so if the working motor is hard to turn when I touch the bullets together it’s likely to be a phase wire issue in the broken motor. If the working motor is not any harder to turn with bullets together it’s likely that the broken motor has short circuiting issues. Do I understand you correctly?
My second motor stopped working. This time I think it’s a phase wire issue as I did the test that @racidon told me to do. When I touch 2 bullet connectors together, the motor brakes.
So I’m wanting to replace my remote, I want no issues with dropouts but I also don’t want the unwieldy size of the gt2b so I’ll have to get an enclosure . I know I want either The gt2b The bench wheel remote The trigger style mini remote Are all of these essentially dropout free or has anyone had dropouts issues with the last 2
never had dropouts with my gt2b mad munkey mod (badwolf also worked fine but once you go mad munkey you’ll never want to go back)
1 Like
Never had a single dropout with the mini remote from aliexpress
1 Like
Thanks for the input guys-
I like that the benchwheel remote is lithium rechargeable, small, has throttle settings and is apparently reliable
@XIII does the mini remote give you the option of limiting the throttle. I know that there’s two little knobs on the back of it. and does it tell you when it’s on low battery?since it’s aa battery powered i cant charge it regularly.
if I can get my hands on a benchwheel remote for a decent price I’ll try that based on @Jinra’s recommendations
If not i’ll get the mini remote as long as it’s got a low battery warning and some throttle control.
if not ill get the gt2b and this enclosure because im not confident in the 3d printers i have access to
https://electric-skateboard.market/product/gt2b-electric-skateboard-controller-housingcase-enclosure/
there is only a throttle trim , and a led for when it’s on. You have 4000 mah and i did one year before recharing those batteries so no real need to worry
After riding dual 6355s (someone else’s board) I thought the brakes on them were not powerful enough, we had motor min set to -20 and battery min set to -8 on each vesc on a 4p battery. Should the motor min be made stronger or should I just get brake board trucks if it’s looking like I’m getting dual 6355s too?