AI13 w/ Skikes | 3D ABS Enclosure | TB 6355 190KV | MEB VESC | 8k mAh Zippy's

Here’s my newest build…not quit finished, but should be in the next couple of days. I’ve been working on this for a couple of months, in my spare time. I’m using Skikes I bought from @Eboostin and an aluminum deck I bought form @torqueboards. I painted the deck and 3d printed enclosure with Plasti-Dip. I don’t like the way the trucks & enclosure came out so Ill be re-painting them in the future. I will probably add another motor as well.

Here’s a few pics of the build, in progress. I’ll post more when it’s compete.

I’ll update how well it runs after I put a few miles on it. Here’s the parts list…

TB 37x9 in Aluminum Longboard Cruiser (Discontinued) Cost: $125.00 Shipping: $10.00 Link: diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/37-aluminum-longboard-cruiser/

Jessup Skateboard PimpGrip Griptape Sheet 9x33 Cost: $8.61 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

Caliber II Fifty 10 in/50 degree RAW 184mm Longboard Trucks (Set Of 2) Cost: $34.95 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

Big Boy Angled Wedge Rubber Riser Pads 5/16"-9/16" (8mm-14mm) (Black) Cost: $5.99 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

x4 Skike Pneumatics wheels, x2 with Pulleys + x4 Extra Tires (5x1, 60T, 9mm) Cost: $150.00 Shipping: $18.00 Link:

Amphetamine Abec 7 Skateboard Bearings Cost: $10.59 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

Plasti-Dip (Black) Cost: $10.19 Shipping: $0.00 Link: Autozone

63xx electric skateboard motor mount Cost: $50.00 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

x2 345-5M-09 Synchronous Timing Belt Cost: $7.56 Shipping: $9.92 Link:

Electric Skateboard Motor 6355 190KV Cost: $90.00 Shipping: $0.00 Link: diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/electric-skateboard-motor-6355-190kv/

Ai13 3 piece Enclosure Cost: $19.61 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

MEB VESC Cost: $110.00 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

ZIPPY FlightMax 8000mAh 3S1P 30C LiPo Battery Pack Cost: $45.01 Shipping: $10.93 Link:

ZIPPY FlightMax 8000mAh 3S1P 30C LiPo Battery Pack Cost: $45.01 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

LCD Indicator Battery capacity Tester voltmeter Cost: $5.99 Shipping: $2.00 Link:

6S to 2 3S Balance Wire Splitter Adapter Cost: $5.99 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

JST XH 6S 22.2v Lipo Balance Wire Extension Lead 8.5 inches FREE USA SHIP Cost: $4.95 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

Enertion Nano-X Remote & Reciever Cost: $50.00 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

Turnigy Accucell-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger LiHV Capable (from korryh) Cost: $27.91 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

HobbyKing 105W 15V/7A Switching DC Power Supply Cost: $15.05 Shipping: $10.93 Link:

MEB Simple Charging Port Adaptor Cost: $11.99 Shipping: $8.00 Link:

6S to 2 3S Balance Wire Splitter Adapter Cost: $5.99 Shipping: $0.00 Link:

Cost SUBTOTAL: $840.39 Shipping SUBTOTAL: $69.78 TOTAL: $910.17


Sick Board!! :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes:

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Awesome @mmaner did you paint the wheel pulleys or did you find them already anodized?

they came that way, i painted everything else though & its a pain :slight_smile:

So when do you predict to publish some more info regarding this build?

Im interested since you are using these small wheels :slight_smile:

Would be actually cool, if you posted some more technical details here otherwise going to the excel sheet is not that convenient.

Also - when you finish this - please post it on the same as you did for your longboard build :slight_smile:

I predict lots of wear and/or belt skipping with so little teeth in mesh at your motor pulley. I would suggest a idler and a longer belt. But looks cool :slight_smile:

I am waiting on batteries and I had some issues with my printed enclosure.

I’m about to just say screw it and call the enclosure done even though it looks like crap, and then re do it later. I supposedly had the enclosure printer with 100% infill, but when I sanded it too much I got all these little pockets. So I filled them with JB Weld and the re-sanded, but I had already painted it with Plasti-Dip, that stuff doesn’t sand smooth. So I have it reasonably smooth now, gonna try and paint it one more time.

I might add an idler, Longer belts are not really an option with 9mm belts. If you get them too long the tension vs separation point is prohibitive. Thats a mistake that a lot of people make, almost always use the smallest belt you can. The belt will last longer, and you only adding up to 10% contact with really long belts.

The key to this build is probably dual motors or swap the wheel gear for a standard 36T and figure out how to make it fit. I’m still trying to decide on dual/single motors and if dual which ones. I’m thinking I might go dual 6355 190KV, but that will have to wait on extra funds. I might even go with a chain drive setup.

This is just an extra board so I’m not really in a hurry, just experimenting really.

ouhhh didn´t recognize that it´s 9mm… yep than go dual with idlers :smiley:

Well, it looks like you got pretty long board anyways - 93.98 cm (37’’)…

I dont want to hijack the thread but dont you wish a shorter deck or you dont have to put your boards in a car?

I know that this deck gonna stay probably for you… but I just thought to ask you how do you like the lenght of it?

I also had around 94cm (37’’) long board but it was just a bit too long for me… the option not to touch the wheels with your feet is of course nice but for practical reason short deck is the best I think :wink:

@mmaner you got some nice background info on belts there!

I think this should be pinned somewhere lol!

I have a ‘‘longer belt’’ but actually it sucks, I did not get the tension right the first time and it is too loose - when I brake harder it starts to skip tooth!

So I think you are doing just fine with yours… unless you also get tooth skipping like I did have.

Installed custom idler pulley for now and it is better now.

I dumped the link tot he sheet and added a static list, I would’ve done that originally but I got busy right in the middle of posting the info.

Oh ok, just be sure to update the post once you get it running :slight_smile: Otherwise im now only guessing what other parts are you using… the list is indeed useful non the less, especially including the sources and price for the items!

I still cant get around my head how you will spend about 4hours charging it probably… if you say you charge at 2amps… and you got something like 7500mah capacity to pump into… then that is like 3 and half hours at least…

It is of course fine, if you are not in a hurry and have other boards available… so cannot be envy about that lol

Honestly, I think 36-37in is the perfect electric skateboard deck length. I realize that it totally subjective, but I’ve built on 32in to 41in and this is the right size for me. I am actually working on a little Mini-Logo 28in deck, but its just for the fun of it, I doubt Ill ride it much or I’ll end with street face :slight_smile:.[quote=“Okami, post:10, topic:16217”]

I have a ‘‘longer belt’’ but actually it sucks [/quote]

I agree, it easier to tension longer belts, but the increased surface area makes it vulnerable to debris and snagging and the lack very little increase in contact makes the increased wear less valuable.

No no no, it takes about an hour and a half. I usually charge at 5amps, but that usually comes out to about 2.2amps per lipo pack, so there is a loss of 0.6amps across both lipo packs, for a total charge rate of 4.4amps.

Well, I imagine that 28’’ would be the ‘‘perfect’’ one, in terms of deck lenght. Im not so sure how comfortable it is riding one but I just measured my stance and 28’’ seems optimal…

The hard part comes with truck mounting / tire position… Tires has to be small enough or the deck has to be high enough not to accidentally touch them in a turn… I’ve accidentally touched the tire on my current 32’’ board and it was not that nice lol… did not fall but it was somewhat uncomfortable :slight_smile:

That’s the subjective part of deck sizes. I think a lot of people feel like you do, I just like a bit longer deck. In fact, thats probably why the new @torqueboards & @oriol360 pre-builts are 32in.

Yeah, wheel bite sucks. I had it happen on my arbor deck when I first tested the skike wheels. That’s one of the main reasons I like this aluminum deck, it is the perfect shape for big wheels, the large cutouts at the nose and tail make it unlikely for wheel bite to occur.

Back to the subject of belts for a minute…I work with a bunch of mechanics that work on mills & headers, both are machine types used to shape ‘wire’ into fasteners. A lot of these are belt driven so I asked for advice from them. They all agee that belt life is increased by keeping as much of the belt as you can on the pulleys. The field of the belt, the part that is not on the pulley in a given rotation, is subject to drastic temp changes and rotation forces by camber of the pulleys. The less belt that is in the field, the longer the life of the belt.

Something else to think about it belt width. Most people use 12mm belts, but I like 15mm as it gives more torque & more belt to wear out. Its significantly louder, but I think its a good trade off.

That’s some smart description of what happens to a belt :slight_smile: I also use 15mm belt, Im not sure can you comfortably go with narrower one for an emtb :slight_smile:

Though, this is a hybrid… so 12mm might work ok probably, too, who knows.

Yes - cutouts are a must for such big wheels! I also had to make a cutout on the side to accomodate the motor mount when the board is tilted to one side… I have not published the ‘‘current board/deck’’ but it was not like these regular emtbs, with ‘‘nose’’ at the front, instead it had a regular ‘‘round’’ skateboards deck shape…

Sorry for the off-talk but If I had a template and a confidence in correctly routing a deck I would probably cut out a shape which I personally like…

Personally, I’ve been looking at these boards recently -

Im wondering how it all might work together… Electronics could perhaps be mounted onto the bars somehow or in the middle…

Interested because of the ‘‘possibly’’ less weight for the board and also less board material involved in general.

Also, the look of it, in my opinion, is also very nice and distinct from other boards :slight_smile: These boards look really ‘‘plain’’ / ‘bare’’ in a good way :slight_smile:

Ive had 9mm belts stretch so much that they were useless. Ive never had a 12mm belt do that but I CAN feel the difference in 12mm & 15mm as far as pulley grab & torque resistance is concerned. As I am not the smallest guy, I like 15mm so that I put less stress on the belt.

Those are pretty cool deck shapes. The first one is kind of gnarly looking, but that is a good thing in this case. Imagine the carves you could do with that.

If you want to send me the dimension fo the deck I can model something for you that you get 3d printed. Although, the more I think about it, a sheet metal enclosure would be nice on this type of deck. You can get some pretty cool shapes and waterproof seals with sheet metal too.

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@mmaner Here is an old catalogue of theirs:

Decks seem to be about 750mm in size (~29.5’‘in) but when ‘‘extending’’ them, the overall lenght is probably close to ~36’’ or so, like you have for your board :slight_smile:

Their boards do cost a bit more than the others I believe… not sure are they in same range as trampa as I have not checked that… I just know from the used board listings that they are quite a bit more expensive compared to the general decks and boards…

Yes, perhaps the word ‘‘Gnarly’’ is the best one to describe these boards…

I’m still in a search for the ‘ideal board’’ lol…

It would include:

  • Grab handle (either in the deck or at the front or back of the board - so that it could be carried like a travel bag.)
  • Mud flaps / fenders - current boards with no fenders are just terrible / unrideable in wet or snowy conditions… better grap some waterproof pants and boots, if you plan to ride in rain / wet conditions :smiley:
  • Possibly - foldable - I’ve thought about this but my mechanical skills and resources and not as vast yet to start thinking about something like that :slight_smile:
  • Possibly - hydraulic brakes - just for extra safety / comfort

That’s all for now from what I dont see that often on the regular emtb builds, I will agree, that some boards have already incorporated some of these elements I mentioned but I think I have not seen a board whic has all of these features at once…

@Mobutusan is a great inspiration btw :wink: he made a somewhat scratchy emtb into a decent looking / useful one :slight_smile: (also has fenders / mud flaps)

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Daaaammmmnnnn, those are sweet decks and the axles (trucks) are definitely different. I could make a mud machine out of one of those. I haven’t done any off-road rides on an electric skateboard/mountainboard. Its on my list of builds to do though.

We have a state park close to me, Joe Wheeler State Park, that has an 8 mile dirt trail that Im dieing to try on en eMTB.