Almost there! Last sprint, deciding between connection cables!

So im almoste there to my first electric longboard. There is only one more thing to buy. Connections cables. I read in differend threads about XT90, XT60, antispark and more. For example that using two XT90 connectors in your longboard build could end in blown up batteries. I ain’t gonna mess with those cables! So i rather ask this wonderful community for help. That said, here are my ‘important’ specs:

Batteries 2x:

Vesc: http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/FOCBOX-programmable-brushless-motor-controller/

Series Cable:

Hxt to hx (Didnt found hx90. And i didnt found a Hxt to hx male and femal eigher, that would have made the next cable not required):

Hx Cable:

Antispark Loop Key https://www.ebay.com/p/ARRMA-Outcast-BLX-Ar390204-Loop-Connector-Xt90-Female/1973181777 (Is that even antispark / do i have to make one myself?)

Is there any hope or would my system just implode in an instant :grin: ?

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I have my system connected with a loop key without problem so far but with the bms help.

A good thing would be to have a bms with a switch. This would save you lots of problems. I just turn the switch off then connect the loop key then i turn the switch on and there you go never had a problem with that so far.

14awg is a bit light for me personally. As a series connector it is exposed to total current, check to see it can handle your anticipated loads and in use i’d watch it doesn’t heat up too much.

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this is the only hxt4mm serial i found, what would you suggest instead?

Unless you have plugged the batteries together to make a circuit? XT90 connectors are rated at 90Amps and are good connectors when used within there design specification. So I am unsure what you are eluding to here bro?

Do you have a soldering iron?

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find a local store that sells wires and only buy the connectors. use a solder iron and make your own cables with whatever connectors you need.

I think it would get you cheaper . 6euro for a loop key.? that is just an xt90 with the heads connected .

You can usually find wires at rc cars shops. as cobber said is a bit too tiny the awg14 im running awg 10 for batteries and awg12 for motors . (some would say is overkill with awg 10 and awg12 would work just fine)

i’m referring from another post, pretty complicated stuff which i seem to have misunderstood :joy:

That loop key does not look like an anti-spark XT90 connector…

ill definitely try that, but what is the difference between awg14 and awg10?

do you know if there is a good tutorial video for doing this specific for longboard cables?

ye damn i thought so, but wasnt 100% sure. i guess ill just do one myself then.

All good bro, just measure twice, cut once as they say. Do you research, double check everything.

the amount of current it can handle. Awg 10 will be thicker so larger area more amps.

Here

12awg will be fine.

found those too :slight_smile:

that wiki site is a little bit confusing. if i’m right awg14 might be a bit too thin because it doesn’t handles amp that good? so how much does 14/12 and 10 awg handle?

and what side do i need? battery or esc :disappointed_relieved:

on wiki you have a table with all awgs and the amps and dimensions etc. idk about these connectors you got there xt60 xt90 are better in my opinion.

Ro you have access to an solder iron ? or could you get one or something . then you wont depend on the few wires and connectors from hobbyking. where you from?

well i need those hxt4mm for my batteries. but ill buy xt90 too for my vesc and loop key. ill buy myself a solder iron, only 15€ (germany). but these last connectors i posted seem fine to me. they are made to be used by a solder iron.

then if you need it for the batteries get the batteries end :-))

If you want to be sure look at batteries connector and see where is the black wire connected. the look for a wire with the oposite connector on the black wire . this is the only difference om the battery and esc connectors

You don’t need a series adapter with HXT 4mm connectors. Carefully slice the thin plastic between the positive and negative plugs. Then A+ can be plugged directly into B- (Just don’t plug A+ into A-!!)