if that is a rebranded genuine flier 300amp eswitch then freezing on is a defect or fluke. I’ve been running those in boards for a while now, they’re the only ones that are really reliable. Kind of surprised at this, but i suppose it has to happen eventually.
Seems like my luck. Whoever makes the fat boy switch. Hurry up and make more. I don’t mind leaving the board on all the time, but sometimes one motor stops working and it needs a reboot. I think gluing in the canbus cable and turning off traction control might have helped. Needs testing. Too much rain to test.
You’re going to end up with more issues, eventually the regen currents from hard braking will agitate the failure in the mosfets and you’ll have to replace it anyway after it finally dies completely.
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Is there any reliable one? I got a good one and installed it, plug and play so nothing I could do wrong and it worked beautifully. Never rode it just tested the switch and when I woke up next morning the board was stuck on and would not shut off. I look and 3 or 4 fets burned up :(.
Do you disharge through your bms? If so just use the e-switch on the bms, that is more reliable than most anti-sparks
In the name of higher amprage (and cause I bought the anti spark before I bought my bms) my bms is charge only. 
A 80a bestech bms for bkb is cheaper than a new anit-spark https://buildkitboards.com/collections/batteries/products/bestech-bms?variant=7201537785886
I’ve got dual focbox on 6374 motors at 60a each. So the 100a switch might work, don’t know I could trust an 80a bms.
Update to all this. Learned some more about mosfets and poked around with a multimeter. Figured out which one went bad and desoldered it. Only had a ts100 so I did the best I could at taking it out of the circuit.
To my surprise it works again! 
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