I guess different kv front and rear, they have to stay the same on each end to avoid torque steer, v4 there is a possibility to use mixed kv
Maybe i need to explain a bit better and compare the original firmware to my firmware.
Original: Back Motor max 60A Front Motor max 40A At 50% throttle the back will get 30A and the front 30A // current if master is shared At 75% throttle the back will get 45A and the front 40A // current if master is shared but front reached limit At 100% throttle the back will get 60A and the front 40A // current if master is shared but front reached limit
My firmware mod 3.101: Back Motor max 60A Front Motor max 40A At 50% throttle the back will get 30A and the front 20A // throttle is shared so front wil use 50% of it’s own motor max current At 75% throttle the back will get 45A and the front 30A // throttle is shared so front wil use 50% of it’s own motor max current At 100% throttle the back will get 60A and the front 40A // throttle is shared so all in
For the brakes it works the same. So with my firmware mod it would be possible to have a precise ratio of front and back. (in the example it is 40:60)
I have to say for the price point, that 4wd jed board is impressive. But I’ve done similar things with hummie hubs with no slipping issues without traction control. I just don’t full throttle, lol. I have a bigger surface area than pretty much anyone else, since you can’t belt drive a centrax wheel. Should mean more traction, which is the key to a strong acceleration. It’s tough because once I get traction, I’m gone.
My whole goal of this thread was to see if putting more torque one way or another helped traction to get a good acceleration without reducing power.
I would try the @Ackmaniac aplit function. When you accelerate you have a load transfer to the rear wheels, how much is hard to calculate since the rider stance is a big influence in it
What i would do:
- find a street with consistent pavement and with no dirt to provide a constante traction
- use a camera, preferable with slowmo’ish capability to record the board from the side, you can try to do this by feeling the wheels spin
- floor it without torque split to see what is slipping, if its just the front wheels reduce the split to them until no slip occur
Do the wheels also spin when at speed? say flooring at 10 km/h
For launch you don’t maximum torque that the system can gives, you want maximum torque that the friction with the street can sustain without slip. Slip = dynamic friction coefficient, that is lower than the static one
Where can I get you 3.101 fw/tool. for my 2 4wd Trampas
Here it is. When you open the tool you can select the firmware you need.
Thanks buddy!
Any idea why I was getting really poor performance from watt control vs current control?
Used same settings to a tee. But watt control was maybe 60% the power that current control is giving me right now. Wheels never slipped in watt control, but do in current control, and the acceleration in general is way better with current control. Would love to know why cause watt control is way smoother than current control and I’d prefer to run it. Just can’t sacrifice 40% of my acceleration for it though.
Isn’t that because watt control is more limited than current Control. Your board will output higher Max Watts on a full battery vs a 20% battery. But if you limit the watt output you basically tell it to draw less current therefore not as punchy or fast potentially.
You can achieve the same power output as current control. Actually exactly the same. You simply need to pull the trigger more. I know you are using very high motor max and relatively low battery max. This way you give full power in current control even if you pull the trigger only a bit. In watt control you have the full range at all times.
i tried @evoheyax board in watt control and it didnt have nearly the torque it had before. unexplained. I hit trigger all the way. It’s a long story and maybe it has to do with the new motors being wye vs delta? otherwise i think they were almost the same…except maybe a hair less battery amps
but i thought the standard traction control on the vesc would stop any spinning wheels at startup. it wont let one wheel spin out in slippery stuff or on a sharp turn.
Which watt and amp setting did you use define? Because finally the power output is exactly the same at full throttle when the settings are right. Current control only feels stronger because you have less trigger to control the power output, but it all depends on the settings.
i dont know and it’s @evoheyax board, but he said he used watt control both times and we’re trying to figure why it would put out less torque or power. dont know much other than i pulled the throttle all the way. dont even know for sure what luke was set at.