Anyone else have trouble torquing down motor mount to trucks?

Also, make sure you let the loktite cure at least 8 hours, it’s pretty much useless otherwise.


thanks for the responses guys, to clarify, two of the set screws were loose, the other two were solidly in place and would not budge.

upon removing the screws, it looked like the locktite only managed to seal the top 3 threads on each of those set screws. I’m imagine that was the culprit. I cleaned them off and then reapplied to the inside of the threaded hole as well as on the set screw. I doubt it’ll come loose again.

I made sure to crank is down as hard as I could. I used an allen key along with a 12" breaker bar to crank it down. I couldn’t go any further without snapping my allen key. I already snapped a cheap screwdriver earlier.

My alignment is fairly good. I’ll say that its not 100%, theres very very light touching of the belt on one side of the motor pulley’s wall. I don’t think I’ll be able to get it any better than this. I’ve been using the wheel pulley to align the motor mount bracket to be as perpendicular to the truck as I can get it.

I’m going to let the locktite cure for a full 24h this time. I’ll also probably apply a little bit of heat to get it to set faster.

I am having the same problem with my motor mount coming lose last night. I spend Friday night welding the mount to my truck when a blow touch. It does not move at all now.

Found out why mine was not locking in… check this out. One of the 4 set screws which locks the mount onto the truck isn’t tapped all the way through. It just happened that I was using that screw to push the hanger to make contact with the opposite side. Obviously it was not pushing all the way down and left quite a bit of room for the mount to move around.

I ended up using the opposite side’s set screw to push the hanger against the poorly tapped side, and it worked out well.

@torqueboards please advise as well as provide better QC for your parts in the future. I still need to order parts for additional motor later and would prefer not to run into this issue again.

The top set screw does not screw down further than this. upload pics direct link

@cwazy1 Technically, you don’t even need all 4 though.

PM me your contact info + order #. I’ll send you a new one.

@Wilsonliang777 Are you a customer of ours? I don’t see anything familiar from your username.

What I ended up doing, because you indeed need all 4 otherwise it will shift when under load. Is I mounted the mount then removed one set screw at a time and drilled a small nipple into the trucks for the heads of the set screws to sit in. Ie drilled one nipple, blew it out with air or vacuum, replaced and loctight the set screw, move to next until they’re all done…it’ll never move again.

You REALLY don’t need all 4, it won’t shift under load if it’s installed correctly. I installed a dual using 3 if the grub screws, used locktite and let it cure. Been 2 months now and no movement at all.

speedbumps and rocks, and objects that can hit the mount will have an effect on this…especially when your going 30… 4 is necessary. unless of course you want to hit a rock and have your mount torque sideways. but hey its not my board…and you may not hit things, and may have more clearance from the ground etc etc.

Nah, just gotta install it correctly.


There is no need for 4, 2 is enough actually. You need one supplying force on each axis, having 2 in the same axis only makes them fight against each other. What keeps them on the truck is the friction of the side of the hanger w/ the side of the mount clamping piece. Having 2 set screws in the same direction causes a gap in that axis where only the set screws themselves are getting contact, no good.


You see. All trucks are different. If you were talking about caliber 2s yea two bolts work because the hangar is much smaller then the hole in the clamp. You’d push it to two sides and use two bolts.

But the torque boards hangar with the tb4 clamp. The fitment is already tight. Putting only two will make the mount cockeyed as it won’t sot flush against two edges because the fitment is so tight with the curve of the D. Only using two in this case doesn’t give good contact. So forget your high and mighty install it right comment, because it doesn’t fit every application.

Cant really tell from your pic but it looks like you have the clamp too far to the inside, which would cause the clamp to slide as you would be fastening it uphill. Hence, installing it correctly would resolve the issue. Also, there is a version for Caliber II trucks and a version for TB trucks. Did you get the Caliber version to use on TB trucks?

Not trying to argue with you or ever piss you off, you’re just wrong. Stating that a product doesn’t work should be reserved for when you have exhausted assistance and trial and error…which you have not. Doing this causes damage to vendors and harms the community. If it was defective I’d be down with you, but its not…simple as that.

Just a quick chime here…I stopped making mounts for Caliber trucks because no 2 trucks are the same. Makes for a great percentage of shitty fitting mounts.


I don’t think there is a version specifically for calibers and a version specifically for TB trucks.

There are 2 versions of the hanger attachment from TB though. The first version was a c clamp with a single bolt to tighten the c and lock it onto the hanger. The second version is a circle with a D shaped cutout with 4 set screws.


The truck profile is similar to Caliber but slightly bigger by 1mm. Old TorqueBoards Truck Clamps will not fit. Contact us for clarification.

There used to be a C-Clamp that did not fir the 218mm trucks and then the new type that does fir the 218mm trucks. I between there was a pre-new type that was would fit caliber II’s ut not the new 218mm trucks, but I dont think many got shipped ro something like that. I don’t remember completely. EIther way, I was simply suggesting an avenue of research to solve the problem.

Also per @torqueboards

You align it straight and simply bolt down the set screws one bolt at a time. The curved part of the motor mount last.

Essentially, once you have the mount aligned correctly, you tighten the grub screws on the sides, the the top, then the curved part of the hanger last. the curved part is not necessary, just a fail safe.

I have no issues with just using two bolts. I simply just include the rest because why not… Doesn’t hurt to have it added. If anything if you need it - it’s there.

I currently have the C-Clamp ones along with the matching trucks. Suckers got loose every time I rode on sidewalks due to vibration. I installed it the correct way with the right loctite and cure time, still no luck. I think the C-Clamp versions are a good idea if it was NOT made oversized. It should have fit SNUG and not loose whereas you have to use shrink wrap to put between the truck and the mount! Obviously it’s a design flaw. I had to drill and tap 2 additional holes onto the mount then lightly drilled holes on the truck to keep them sturdy. So far it’s working OK but definitely have to check every time I get off the board. The newer ones with only the 4 grub screws will indeed loosen because it’s just too harsh of a ride to rely on 4 grub screws hold it altogether. The clamping way is to go IMO. Good luck to all.

PS if yours is not loose, more power to you. Probably you’re not riding hard enough, you’re a lightweight, or you have smooth surfaces. But will get loose!

Dude this wasn’t even my post. I was just chiming in that I had issues too. And posted what I did to solve it. As far as it being to far to the inside there’s 1.5mm between my pulley and motor mount. To far inside…totally

Instead of saying install it right, offer other solutions like I did, drill the truck for the setscrews to have a seat.

You argued with me over me saying you need all 4. I didn’t say there was an issue with the mount in any post did I? I said you need all 4. That simple.

I also didn’t say there’s two mount types. I said there’s a difference between torque board trucks and calibers. Calibers d shape is tiny compared to the torque boards trucks. Calibers have like 4-7mm of gap, where the torque board mounts have less then 1mm. As that’s what these mounts were cut for. The reason I said you need all 4 is because of the tight fitment and because of the fact the trucks are cast, using two doesn’t allow a flush mating and will slip even with cured loctite if you hit something like a speedbump etc.

So kudos for being a know it all that is never wrong. But all I did was share my experience with the OP

I did offer solutions…

I suggested your clamp might be too far to the inside.

This could still be the issue depending on how far out on the shaft the motor pulley is mounted.

I suggested there might be an issue with the TYPE of clamp you are using.

I explained how I did it with no issues.

Yall can get pissed all you want, it doesn’t change anything. There’s thousands of these clamps out int he world and may 10 people have had an issue. Seems likely that the 10 people might be the problem and not the clamp.

To address specific points. I ride at 15mph average, typically peak at 25mph, uphill/downhill on pretty crap’tastic roads. I weigh close to 200 lbs. I get tons of vibration and rocks flying up as I ride almost everyday. I haven’t touched my clamps since they were installed and no movement at all.

If you install the to side grubs first, most problems go away. Drilling a seat into the hanger is SOP, which is what I do with all motor mounts, silly not too. If the grub screw is backing out, it seems likely the issue is locktite, try red locktite and let it cure for 8 hours, although blue should be fine.

I agree that a motor clamp is likely easier to install for most people, but its harder to align. I personally prefer the old Enertion style clamp using 2 bolts to clamp onto the hanger, but different design types have different merits.


I’ve built about 15 boards over the last year. SInce you joined a few days ago, I would suggest you assume that maybe someone knows a little something that you might find useful. When you said ‘because you indeed need all 4 otherwise it will shift when under load’ you were incorrect. You DO NOT need all four. I’m just suggesting you do some research or ask some questions, hell maybe both, before sharing the opinion that something is flawed.

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If you install the to side grubs first, most problems go away. Drilling a seat into the hanger is SOP, which is what I do with all motor mounts, silly not too. If the grub screw is backing out, it seems likely the issue is locktite, try red locktite and let it cure for 8 hours, although blue should be fine.

This is what I was saying, My grub screws we’ren’t backing out, my mount was walking because there was no seat. When impacting something it would cause it to shift, at which point the load from the motors would worsen it. Impacts would just make the tiny teeth walk - not back out, so then there were grooves from the teeth + impact for them to walk in. the only thing that solved it was drilling seats.

I’ve built about 15 boards over the last year. SInce you joined a few days ago, I would suggest you assume that maybe someone knows a little something that you might find useful.

ah yea this could have been useful, but you weren’t. Maybe my original statement of under load was wrong. But what i meant was load makes alignment worse after impacts when only using 2 or 3 or even 4. The only thing i found was to drill setting on the flat surface of fresh trucks gives them the chance to move sideways with impact. having them in drilled coned seats doesn’t allow that option.