Avoiding wheel bite?

General Discussion
1

Hey guys -

Just bought all the parts for my longboard (no electronics yet) and I’m getting a good bit of wheel bite. When I turn normally it doesn’t happen but just a tad bit more and I’d eat it.

Any suggestions? It’s a pintail board, Caliber II trucks, 83mm flywheels, and 1/2" risers.

Thanks, Adam

Pics:

board1.jpg2048×1536 926 KB
board2.jpg2048×1536 1.29 MB
board3.jpg1536×2048 451 KB
board4.jpg1536×2048 1.06 MB

2

What angle are the tricks at? You might have to change the angle or increase the rise to the deck from the base plate.

3

They’re 50 degree. How do you change the angle?

4

You use angled riser pads instead of flat ones. you can also tighten your trucks or add a couple washers under your boardside bushing (those red squishy things)

5

Different angles will change where your wheel comes closest to your board. Check what point that is and make sure that’s where your wheel well is centered. Expand it a bit so the deepest part is in the right place. You can also measure where the back of your wheel will hit. That’s as far in as you need to make your wheel well.

1 Like
6

How wide are those trucks. You need 10" Calibers

7

It looks like your wheel wells aren’t lining up you can make new ones or even move truck location

8

These are 10" calibers

9

Thanks – I just put some even bigger risers on and wheel bite only occurs when I’m turning ridiculously hard. I also tightened up the trucks and that helped. I may end up making new wheel wells also.

1 Like
10

Try some angle risers

https://www.ebay.com/itm/281898265748

Or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322204954125

These should give you more room than a regular 1/2 inch riser because these change the angle more than the height … note these also changes the Truck geometry and make it carve more …

You can try normal riser in front and angle in the rear

11

Thanks!! So in the front, keep my normal riser, then in the back use the angled riser with the higher end towards the front?

12

Depends on what you’re going for but the typical modification for high speeds / downhill is to de-wedge the back for increased stability (less rear turning and less chance of speed wobble). De-wedge means the fatter end of the riser is facing forward. Some longboarders are de-wedging to the point where the rear truck is set to zero degrees (the rear truck leans plenty but doesn’t turn, so turning dynamics are more like a car). I’m one of those people.

If you find that your resultant turn radius is too large, you can wedge the front for tighter turning.