How did my barrel fire thread turn into a meetup thread?
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Pretty sure Iāve seen some vescs without conformal coating
The solder mask is what I was referring to actually, but conformal coating makes it even more.
Iāll bring a spare 30T. Should make for a good firecracker.
In regards to the original post, Iām not a fan of 5mm barrel jacks. There ought to be a safer standard in esk8 with our higher voltages and currents.
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Safer, sure. But more convenient? It better be just as convenient 
The GX16-3 are a huge pain in the ass. At least, if you want them water resistant while unplugged.
Would these not work?
Those do, however they donāt solve the issue with the middle prong being uninsulated.
Also, never use ones with metal caps like that. One guy on the forum burnt his plug down (just like OP) once it touched the port at a weird angle and sparked between the outer housing and the prong.
While the prongs on the inside are uninsulated, there is only a linear arc path as opposed to a planar arc path. (The arc can form in a full 360 degrees around the pin of a barrel connector)
This linear distance is like 4 to 5 times greater than the inside of the barrel gap as well.
Yeah I donāt think the metal cover should be used. It would be best if it was a machine plastic with a gasket inside.
They exist, Itās a military spec connector, and Iām looking for a good picture of one.
That one on the left I have and it works fine, but itās a motherfucker to screw and unscrew because sand and debris gets in the threads, itās like threading a bolt with wet fine sand on the threads.
And it doesnāt last much longer than a stinky fart because the metal itās made out of is cheese chinesium. You have to constantly replace those metal lids.
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Oh and Iāve also shorted them out before but I fuse the charge portsā¦ so itās not a huge deal. Just have to take the skate apart and fix it if you drunk-short the charge port
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If you want a durable connector Id go for XT60, but make sure its fused and non of your other devices use XT60 so they cant cross streams. 3D print a dust cap. Edit, use a blanked off male plug for the dust cover, like a loop key without the electrical connection.
I thought about using one of these but Iām like, wow if I need to get at the fuse easy Iām doing something wrong.
EDIT: Probably also a good idea to inspect nothing else blowed up.
That adds another hole in the enclosure, which is one more place water can get inside. I prefer these little things soldered in and stuck to something with JB Weld
Since Iām sticking with the first thing that shows up on amazon or ebay build:
By the way this used to be my job this is where whatever āqualificationsā I have come from:
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It still sparks and exposed pins if a coin flicks up of falls on them it could short the battery. If you use the female it have to stick out a lot or not be sealed so the male case can go over the out side of the female yell case.
MMM It is not cheap, but that looks quality.
The downside, besides price: Installation Hole: Ī¦21mm
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Thatās just the problem though. That looks like a NICE beefy port that surely is durable.
The problem is that the female side should be the panel mount version. Theyāre switched.
The side that is always live should not have the exposed pins. The charger should, especially since theyāre already current limited to 2 or 4 or whatever amps you charge at. That would prevent any kind of sustained arc flash.
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I use a dc5.5 barrel connector to charge to 10s at 2amps but I admit Iāve sometimes wondered about what would happen if it shortedā¦ At the moment I cover the pin with shrink-wrap and abit of electrical tape when our riding. Can anyone tell me where you get those rubber dust covers you all seem to be using?