Baseplate with less angle for mounting on an angle, Will it work?

I am running TB 218mm caliber clones and want to mount them on an angle to provide more turning clearance for pneumatic wheels. My current base plates are 50 degrees. If I could swap them with a 30-degree baseplate and then mount them on a 20-degree angle, would they still function correctly?

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Mounting this way would simply change your kingpin angle to a less angle correct? I am hoping to decrease my kingpin angle and then make up the difference with an angled mount.

I want that board every time i see a pic, those big wheels shoe horned in to the deck, looks fast up front and stable out back makes me want to get wedged in the pockets and see how fast she can go…

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Yeah, changed the front truck to 47° and the back to 45°. It still carves really well, the biggest difference it made was in the stability. You can do the same thing if you are going to top mount. You’d just use different wedges. Look on socalskateshop.com

HeeHee Sexy Talk.

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I can’t tell if your deck is going have a kick-nose and/or kick-tail of 20° and then you just want to run a 30° baseplate or if your deck is flat and you plan on using a 20° wedge riser. Either way you’d have a 50° steering angle. A 20° wedge riser is an insane angle so I have to assume that your deck is bending 20°, yes?

Above is a 50° baseplate mounted on a flat section of the deck, and a 30° baseplate mounted on a section of the deck that is angled 20°. Notice that the kingpins, bushings, and pivot cups are identically positioned in space and that the hangers “don’t care” about the baseplates themselves.

If you hide the plate portion of the baseplates themselves, it’s easier to see that functionally they are equivalent.

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Holy explanation! My deck is flat but I was planning on making an aluminum mount that would flush mount in the top of the deck and extend past the deck but up at a 20 degree angle. When mounting back the 30 degree baseplates I would get a bit more wheelbase along with a slightly lower CG. This is by all intents and purposes a light weight (durability) MTB for only street use that I want to run 8" pneumatics and Trampa hubs (already have an axle difference solution) on a practically standard longboard.

The problem I see is that 20° produces a big/tall wedge and you may run into some clearance issues with the truck’s hanger interfering with the deck around the drop-through slot …

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I am certainly not an artist but let me try to illustrate my plan…

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Here’s a 20° mounting flange and a 30° baseplate with a 218mm Hanger. It can yield the 50° steering angle and clearance that you want.

The bigger challenge that you’re going to face is making the mounting flange rigid enough so that it doesn’t torsionally twist. If you bent some 1/4" thick aluminum plate it would flex and twist way too much for my liking. Torsional twisting is the devil. Many/most skaters have no idea how horrible it is. Some will even tell you that “slop is your friend”. It is not. You would be much better served by casting or machining a mounting flange that has little to no flexing or twisting. It’s usually easier to reinforce an angled wood deck feature with diagonal crossing carbon fiber strips. We make double-kick decks that are 36" to 42.5" in length.

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@ChrisChaput just rolls in on the thread and starts dropping truth bombs and cool cad graphics… :punch: Nice bro… :muscle:

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This is exactly what I was hoping to accomplish! Do you think 1/4" steel flat stock would be suitable to avoid torsional twist?

one of my favorite esk8 decks was a 40" bustin YOFACE double kick, and my favorite pusher is a 40" brad edwards gravity double kick.

Hey, just found this. It seems like You can adjust the angle on it. http://www.shop.gbomblongboards.com/GBomb-DD-R-Deep-Drop-Regular-DD-R.htm

oh yeah… i’m pretty sure somebody here had a build using some of those a while back. Maybe it was @psychotiller ?

You’d have to try it and see. It’s difficult to take something thin and flat and prevent it from twisting.

I think this is a good approach.

Years ago I was running parking garages with some friends and we had two boards that had the same axle-to-axle wheelbase, same trucks, and same wheels (Lime BigZigs). One deck was relatively rigid, and the other was a G-Bomb that had a stiff wooden middle standing platform, and two aluminum mounting flanges. We were switching boards and whenever anyone was on the G-Bomb they couldn’t negotiate the corners and keep up with the pack. The lack of control was noticeable to all of us. You’d just slide out. If we hadn’t been switching boards and/or using identical setups we probably would have just thought it was “pilot error”. But the torsional twisting of that deck made it impossible for whomever was on it to hang with.

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I have back burners the angled mount idea for now and will simply bebusing a piece of flat bar as an extension. I do plan to design a fully enclosed mount with mounting studs to accomplish mounting Trampa/MBS trucks on longboard decks. Just need the design time and a willing machine shop to make a prototype.

I can’t honestly say that I could offer good advice to the “dirt oval” community or any vehicle where full suspension and a steering wheel is involved. But what I do know is that virtually every vehicle with 3 or more wheels is going to experience forces on the frame/chassis/deck and that torsional twisting will be an issue. Bikes and inline skates carry mostly radial loads, and their frames are designed accordingly.

Because skateboards and street luges are lean-steer and because the deck is the lever that we use to apply all of the forces to our steering system, it is more important than ever that we have a GOOD lever. Noodles do not make good levers. Noodles make fun diving boards and spring boards, but I LOATHE noodle boards. A little flex is okay, but typically whenever a board can flex, it can also twist. I’ve been using “Carbon-X” construction in our maple/poplar/carbon/fiberglass decks and it designed to allow a small amount of flex while eliminating as much twisting as possible. Here are a few images and a video showing the difference in the direction of fibers and how it relates to flex vs twisting. When the fibers run tip-to-tail (0°) it resists longitudinal flexing but twists like a noodle. When the fibers run diagonally (45°) it flexes a lot but resists torsional twisting. You can see how I’ve used carbon strips in the rendering at the bottom …

The first piece in the video is the 0° and it twists a lot, followed by the 45° piece which is hard to twist

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It was @sl33py

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