Nope. A cell supposed to advertise 50A continuous and being reviewed by Lygte as way to hot at 30A, it can’t be used continuously at 30A means that it is good up to maybe 20A max. The discharge graph posted above shows the same.
That’s my definition of a bad cell, when you can’t trust the manufacturer’s rating because you put your life at danger if you do so. You can give it a try at factory specs and test if your board won’t fire up in the bad way. Go ahead.
@pat.speed find me a cell able to make this magic without the magic smoke and even my stubborn forehead will forgive the over specs.
@webst So you’re basically ready to more than double the weight of your battery (46gr /cell vs 96gr / cell), and limit cell numbers (because you won’t be able to stuff as many as 18650) to make a 2p config for low amp setup of 30A for 2Ah more per cell?
The LiitoKala is almost 27mm wide vs close 18mm wide of the 30Q. Seems huge if you care for low profile thicnkess.
Guys I’ve been a believer of the 26650 and went back. The new shit will be the 20700 and 21700 when price drops, but as it is now, stay within 18650 and Lipo grasp.
If you want more 26650 surprises from Gearbest, check UltraFire LI-HP and Li-Mn 26550 cells (purple wrap). Very good at what they do within their Wh despite overspecd. Yet expensive and do not go above 20/30A either.
Heck even LifePo4 M1-B cells with their virtually unkillable cycle and 70A high discharge lose interest when faced against LTO cells in smaller package.
There’s no perfect setup yet for your compact battery to stuff under your board.
You can’t have 5 minute charge, 500+Wh, 100A+ discharge, full fireproof and dumb proof, +1000 cycles all combined in a Scrabble box format. Not yet.
Factor in weight, size, shape, ampacity and total range, cost… spend months or more fiddling through cell models, reviews, prices, different sites, go look for the cell you need and you’ll end up doing the same thing I did : come back to the classics.