I bought 2 VESC’s both 4.7 one of them immediately broke. (10s/dual Tacon bigfoot) Chaka repaired it and sent it back and I haven’t had many issues since. Though, I haven’t ridden it much either because of my knee. I haven’t tried the vesc with a low kv motor and urethane wheels. My experience is with pneumatics. That said, I love FOC! But, in every setting the vesc is slow with acceleration and top speed when compared to my EZ’s and Mamba’s.
How quiet and smooth are those esc? I had the ezrun150 and the brakes were awfully loud. If anything else out there were smooth and quiet I’d be satisfied but haven’t come across anything so smooth and quiet. And haven’t blown a chip yet on FOC
The brakes are louder by far! But they can handle higher amps.
@sl33py @psychotiller i’ve ordered all the parts (still waiting for it) as I am planning to diy myself a hub motor (similar to @Hummie). Not for commercial purpose. I guess the only main difference is the size (I’m grabbing 6825 instead of 4725).12s 90kv n48sh most probably 40-50 amps (vesc was my benchmark, but still reluctant)…i haven’t actually get the spec sheet from the custom stator manufacturer yet…hummies and Pedi’s hub are my “reference” as I see their hubs working beautifully with 12s and vesc…should I wait for v6.0? I guess I should ask at vedder’s site…haha…wheels I guess around 95mm…btw, thanks for the feedback guys, TB’s 12s ESC was on my list too, but I heard there’s some braking prob too…
As far as I know, the brakes are better.
The braking on tb esc is fine.
I’m kind of confused about VESCs. Are all VESCs the same? Are Ollin, Enertion, etc just repackages of the same arduino and software?
Yeah they’re all the same, just different manufacturers. Only differences are the parts, some buy from cheaper sources and some buy higher quality parts. Arduino has nothing to do with it lol
They are all based on the same design but are all manufactured by different people. Chaka hand builds his and are regarded as of higher quality because of this. Diy and enertion placed themselves into the lower price category and have a slightly lower quality component, but still good by any means.
That just doesn’t make any sense at all. What you are saying is the cost of an ESC should be directly proportional to how much you spend on a motor - which is total baloney. If a $35 ESC works well enough, why wouldn’t you use it? The price of it has no bearing on whether it’s any good.
And whilst I agree that ESCs over 6s get pricey, I say this - stick to 6s. I’m still on 6s, and I gear down my boards to keep them under 20mph. Anything more is really seriously dangerous (dont’ let anyone tell you otherwise). Going to 8s, 10s, 12s just increases your costs and complications.
No, actually i’m saying that getting a high performance motor that can do 12s and running it 4-6s on a car ESC, PLUS with poor timings and brake adjustment on the car ESC - is not giving you the performance you are spending on the motor.
going to 8s, 10s, 12s gives you both power and better efficiency. Properly setup with an ESC that can be adjusted also can limit your top speed (Mamba and VESC have this). back to my first point. Leaving performance (and safety features) underutilized on a budget ESC. It’ll work, but you’re not getting the full potential of that $$ motor.
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I still don’t see it.
On my single motor 6364 board, the motor capable of 10 s but I run it at 6s. I bought it because of its size. The fact it can handle 10s is neither here nor there. It didn’t cost me more to buy a 10s capable motor. There was no 6s choice…
A motors voltage rating is max limit, not a recommendation. They don’t run innefficiently at lower voltage, they just run slower.
I’ve built three boards now. Two 6s and one 10s. My two 6s boards have clocked over 30mph but I have geared them down to 22mph. They run cool. One has a 15mile range (I’m 90kg). The other around 8 miles (much smaller batteries). The second board cost less than £400 all in. I don’t want the “full potential of my motor”. That would mean around 40mph.
The 10s board I built for a mate has been nothing but trouble. The batteries are expensive and now out of production. It’s got through three vescs. Braking is erratic. You need a bec for any ancillaries. I went for 10s for the efficiency of increasing voltage and reducing amps. He also wanted a crazy top speed (which after coming off, he wisely never reaches) Under testing his board has a little over half the Mah of mine and does about half the range 8 miles). The theoretical efficiency increase is barely, if at all noticeable.
The lust for high voltage, in my experience is just not worth it on these scales.
Hey, Could anyone please tell me if I can use this instead of a VESC? Thank you!!
You probably can, but will either have no brakes, or brakes that come on when you let off the throttle. Not good. Some folks have found hacked firmware that will let them use heli/boat ESC’s, so i’d search if you are looking for bottom dollar budget ESC. Not a great idea in my book, but also understand you gotta work within your budget - just be careful given speeds we reach on esk8 and potential injury if your ESC dies at speed (and/or locks up brakes).
If you can swing it i’d go with one of the less expensive ESC’s that have a good reputation. I believe @lowGuido might recommend the x-car beast? i’ve also heard good things about the FVT ESC’s. All car esc’s as they have brakes and adjustments that work well for esk8.
GL!
Thanks a lot man!! Appreciate the reply)
Not having brakes is a dangerous thing on eSk8! It’s easy to forget just how effortlessly an eSk8 can rack up speed, and with no way to dissipate it, you can get into some pretty sticky situations. My opinion is that the ESC is the most important component to not cheap out on, the battery coming second.
For a budget conscious ESC, you can try a car ESC from hobbyking, like the X Car 150A or the Trackstar 150A. Both can handle 6S, are programmable, and most importantly, have brakes. They even include an on/off switch, eliminating the need for an external switch!
For a bit more money, you can get a VESC from for around $100, and have a much better ESC that will cover you all the way up to 12S should you want to upgrade, and has much smoother power delivery. I’ve tried both car ESCs and VESCs back to back, and the difference is quite striking!
Hope this helps!
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I can recomend the X-car beast for 6S. I have used lots of them. never had one fail.
DO NOT use the trackstar ESC they are horrible and you will street your face.
also brakes are over rated. downhillers never had them and don’t need them. in my experience most slams on electric boards come from people putting the brakes on too hard and eatting pavement. Foot drag or slide. by all means use electronic brakes to regulate your speed, but don’t rely on them to stop or save you. thats asking for trouble.
Should I get a vesc or the one your taking about
Do you think it could burnout or something
Just get a cesc
Will it overheat because it is air cooled