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Just fixed it
It might be cheaper and better to buy the cells and ask @longhairedboy or @scepterr to weld them for a nominal fee, then do the rest of the battery manufacture yourself after the nickel is welded.
i use the 5p for my delivery ebike in manhattan and very happy with itā¦granted its not a performance bike nor boardā¦ but on a 500w ehub running my bike like I got shit to do (which i do) i get at least 15mile out if it before it starts sagging hard enough i consider switching to a fresh batteryā¦
Thank you for that I will think about it the only problem is how big it is but for the price it looks good.
you wont worry about size when youre using it!! dayummmmmmmm!!! hahah #punintended lol
but reallyā¦ just buy their case then if you dont have something already and get to riding full throttle without having any sagā¦
Ok that sounds great I was looking at there case and it looks good and not to bulky.
Yes you have.
How can you make a recommendation on something you have not done?
A shitty welder is hundred times more dangerous.
This would be my recommendation for a small pack. Maybe even double up for a 10S4P.
I believe they are 30Q cells and it has a BMS. The only issue is that itās a double stack and O donāt like double stacks.
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How is using the same spot welder as that YouTube video shit?
What do you mean?? Itās not like I spent hundreds of dollars on connectors, tape and the small things
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I have 2 10s5p from them one using hub one one belts (from they too), I donāt experience voltage sag until battery goes to ~36 - I would not recommend for anything ācustomā but if your going for china hubs or belt kit stuff I think its good value for money
He means time, broken connections that have to be redone, weak welds that break over time and make your board catch on fire, there are plenty of things that can and usually do go wrong when building batteries diy. You also have peace of mind, etc.