Bike Park jump board(lightweight)

Hello I’ve never rode a electric mountainboard, but do have a boosted. I have been gravity(non-electric) mountainboarding for a few years. I would mostly ride bike parks with jumps in Denver like Ruby Hill. Most bike parks are on a hill so I didn’t need a motor. But I just moved away from Denver and the only bike park near me is on a very small hill, but not steep enough to mountainboard. My goal is to build the most lightweight board possible just to push me down this little hill a little faster so I can hit the jumps. What size of motor, single or dual and what type and size of battery, and what ESC would suit this build best? I’m thinking about using 1/8 RC car parts because they seem smaller and lightweight. Thanks.

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Motors woukd be 6374 190kv, esc could be a stormcore, makerx or flipsky (personally wouldn’t use myself), and battery should be p42a (so far the latest).

How many p42a cells do you recommend? What gearing ratio do most people use, how many teeth on the pinion gear and the wheel gear?

Does anyone know if the Maker Fire GO FOC DV4 Esc is capable of running just 1 motor instead of 2. Or does anyone know of any ESC that has the option to run 1 or 2 motors? I may start with 1 motor and then add a second if needed.

These are entirely up to you. Mine may not be the same as yours.

No. The motors are too stong for the DV4. You can run it, but at very low amp.

Trampa esc can do it. Its a single esc.

How about you go get some bitches .

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This is why people hates gays. Because you’re the best proof as to why. Dont even @ me with yo retarded having self.

And the fact you had to make a fake account to further prove that you hate your gay life decision already speaks volume. In other words, you’re only playing yourself here mate.

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You remind me of these 13 year old kids on discord sending this to be funny. Im actually laughing bro.

The other esk8 forum getting boring to you?

@zigro please ignore the idiot wanna be. He’s from the other forum. And he’s clearly showing why its horrible.

Glad I trolled.

Are you going sir-crazy? You’re almost completely alone here because you showcased how distasteful of a human being you are on the real and now parade here like you’re king of the castle when in reality you’re the only inhabitant. Hands down, saddest thing I’ve seen since Dave’s manic rambling post flexgate.

Don’t bother responding, I won’t see it.



Hmm, a person from the lgbt esk8 telling a sane person who never will ever get butt hurt from words… I must had struck a nerve here. And out of stupidity, do you really think I’m on this as if my life was made for this?

Im afraid that you’re the crazy one here.

Sorry to pop a bubble here, but this actually was the real esk8 forum. You’re in a copy. So… again, who’s crazy?

And the only thing im being distasteful is the retardation of someone favoring a liar that twisted words around and came at me because I said “a lifestyle I don’t support”.

My stance is an opinion to you, not a dildo. Don’t deep throat it too hard.

… I’m beginning to believe that I’m on to something about the retarded thing…

Edit: I hope you did not assume I made another account and just type to myself… because if you believe this… my gosh…

I’m thinking about buying these components. Is alI I would need to do is solder the red wires together and the blacks together? Or am I missing something here or do I need other electronic components?

Any opinions on the Torque6 ESC’s? Thanks

If you have the battery and stuff, then yes, all you would need is to just solder.

I didnt have a good experience with torqueboards myself so I can’t say anything about the esc. I’ve heard its okay, but id go with trampa if going single.

@zigro If a lightweight jump board is your goal, check out NuBx builds. He builds boards for jumping. Look at the Youtube channel as well.

Second, if you don’t want raw uphill power and just something to get you up hills, a single drive (on the rear heelside) will work. You could upgrade it to dual drive later if you wanted to. You probably do want dual drive though.

A good start would be Matrix 2 trucks with metal baseplates, an HTD5M belt drive using Boardnamics motor mounts, and a TB6380 or Flipsky 6384 motor with a FOCBOX Unity controller.

And fourth, probably best to just ignore that Leon dude.


Am I correct about soldering the 3 black wires together and 3 red wires together? Just want to make sure I do it correct if I get this.

No; you need a loopkey in the circuit.

Also you can just use the loopkey and skip buying that switch.

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As @b264 said, you will need a loop key. You dont need to buy a antispark switch if you do this route instead. And yes, you can solder them together. Ive seen some people do it.

Also, ignore this:

He’s also from the other forum. He also dislikes opinion different from their views.

Its crazy though how i still tell others here that if they want more info, that they should join their forum, and still end up the bad guy.

Evwan is the fake me (me and kavic knows how he acts) and everyone loves talking about me there. Its fun.

Side note: Dmx is actually cool with me. Rip to him. How disrespectful of them to say what dmx liked or didn’t.

The power switch that is attached to the XT90 is included with the ESC’s, so I would not have to buy separate.

Sorry I’m still a little confused here. Do I need to add a Loop Key to everything that is here or do I have the option to only use the power button attached to the XT90(by soldering the 3 black wires together and 3 reds together) or only don’t use that power button and replace it with a Loop Key.

Do you know if some good diagram that show so the components needed.

Think of it like this:

Instead of using an antispark switch that may fail on you later on, you would instead add a red and black wire and cut the black wire in half to solder the XT90 male connector in between the black. You are correct that you solder the three wires, but do not solder the antispark switch.

You’re basically making an antispark but with an Xt90 like so:

Then you just solder the Xt90 to the esc and the battery side should be a male xt90 for the connector on the battery side.

It will be like so:

This is a loopkey. Make sure to solder the two female prongs together with a small wire.

Those switches are notorious for failing, I’d use a loopkey in addition to it, but you don’t have to.

If the switch fails, it will stay on constantly, which means it’s likely you might accidentally destroy your battery.

Plus, a loopkey is ridiculously cheap.

It’s pretty fucking ballsy for you to assume shit about me. You’re the one that throws around hate speech openly in public and tells the whole world that you’re a piece of shit. You’re also the king of disliking opinion different from your views. Fuck off Leon. Don’t make me repeat myself. This is the only place you have left.

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