BKB Tayto cruiser/commuter/kinda lightweight 10S3P, Dual 6355 190KV, Dual Focbox's

I’ve decided enough is enough with lugging around my 23+ lb board for short quick trips. It’s a pain in the ass to carry and obnoxious to go shopping with. It’s an amazing board don’t get my wrong it’s just F***ing heavy. So I busted out an excel spreadsheet and started planning my build. The name of the game here is lightweight af and under the cost of a boosted mini x while beating it in every aspect :smile:. Just want a board I can grab real quick and is somewhat more portable for simple quick trips but still decent for cruising.


Ok, so over the course of me gathering parts, this builds concept has changed and I edited the title to reflect that. This thing will be a little ass kicker and still wayyyy lighter than my current 26lb board. I have included my spreadsheet that I’ve been filling in as I ordered parts. Price for all parts is slightly over $1000.





This is nuts for me.

I have a Tayto on order and my spreadsheet says:

10s3p 30Q BBenclosure Dual Racerstar 5065 200kv Short Surfrodz tkp grindz with my own machined mount Focbox unity (on order) Mini RC remote 15t/36t on Orange Caguama’s

It’s almost the same board.

I’m going to build a replaceable battery pack on a mount so that I can keep a spare on my back in case the 9ish miles isn’t enough. But in general it’s a last mile mini cruiser.

Still debating on the motors, might add a little weight and go 6355’s


It is possible for 15mm belts with @JLabs mounts. But if running 40T, 9mm belts should be enough

Would 40T even fit on an 85mm Otang or is that pushing it? I know on my evolve 38T gears they were close. The main reason for 40T is to squeeze torque out of those little motors and calm down that top speed from my 12S. Any recomendations for a non-bolt on one? Jlabs gear would be perfect but it seems to need the nut flipped around on the caliber truck which I’d rather not do.

I ordered his 40T on 85cags. By my calculations, it will fit. You can also just chop the hanger a little or get 1 e-caliber truck

How do you ride to get 9mi from a 10s3p by my calcs and 15wh/km (very high) you should be getting about 13 and with a cruising style of riding somewhere around 18mi

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I’m fat as fuck


If I ran one regular caliber 2 truck and and an e-caliber would that be fine? Or would it be best to order 2. I actually have one caliber truck just sitting around.

I’m not really a big guy btw haha. Just cautious and have mad range and sag anxiety.

I figure 20 miles of battery at full burn split over two packs is enough for me.

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Will be perfectly fine

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I’m currently using a similar build, although my board is long for stability. I have:

  • 85mm Caguama wheels
  • 14:36 pulley
  • Caliber 2 trucks with 12mm belts (because 6355 motors)
  • 12s2p battery out of LG HB6 (continuous 60A)

What I’ll warn you about such a setup is:

  • Only 2p will limit your breaking power, I ended up raising limits to 10A charging per cell, and try not to break at high speeds so that I don’t blow myself up. I’m probably really decreasing my battery lifespan.
  • Torque is insane on my setup (brought motor limits down to 40A per motor), I wish I had a higher top speed instead (although with such small wheels I probably shouldn’t go any faster, hoping to upgrade wheels to bigger ones in the future), so what I’m saying is that you shouldn’t sweat about torque with wheels this small :smiley:
  • And yes, for 15mm belts you’ll need e-caliber trucks or something else that’s wider.

If I were building a small board for going to the store, I’d go for 10s3p or something instead. Possibly mount the motors diagonally so that you don’t need to get the wider trucks. (Or just 1 motor, idk how far your nearest store is or what roads you’ll be taking.) Just food for thought :slight_smile:

Oh, and 1 more thing – you plan on using smaller motors than mine, but if you were to suddenly pick 63mm motors – do not forward mount :smiley: Probably biggest mistake I made when ordering parts for my boart. Now I’m forced to use riser pads and deal with rocks smashing against my motors constantly and pebbles getting stuck inside.

From what I can tell with a 15-36 setup I’d be able to hit almost 31Mph on this. I’m not sure on the braking power of these motors or what they’d be able to do on 12S2P. If I ran 14-15T 40T that should solve the braking issue no?

Someone else can correct me if I’m wrong, but when breaking at a certain deceleration, it doesn’t matter what pulley setup / motor KV you have – you’re going to have to store a certain amount of energy per unit of time, aka need to store Watts somehow, and the amps you put into your battery will be these watts divided by your battery voltage. So with a 12s battery, you need to store the same amps as I do when both decelerating at the same rate, so if I’m running into minor issues, you would to.

What I just wrote down made me realize I have no reason to be more careful when breaking at high speeds than I do at low speeds. What matters is how hard I break. I’m surprised I haven’t blown up my battery already, lol.

I cannot find the datasheet for the Samsung 40T, but that might have a higher rated charge rate in amps. I’m waiting to get my hands on them, because I can’t fit more than a 12s2p in my enclosure, and I want to double my capacity without sacrificing performance. (Picking LG HB6 cells wasn’t the smartest choice in the world :confused:)

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I’m only looking to use this board to go about 10 miles max. So if I can get that I’d be happy. Now the brakes thing kinda scares me but I rode a buddy of mines board which is a single 6374 on 12s2p with 12mm belts. His braking was pretty bad but not horrible.

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I have a 40T pulley from Dickyho on an ABEC 83mm wheel, still have most of the shoulder of urethane clearance over the belt.

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