I’m finally posting my build after procrastinating on it for weeks. This is by far my most ambitious (and expensive) build yet.
Important details (pictures below):
- METRIC SKATE HARDARE (m5 screws). Honestly, this is the best thing I’ve ever done, now I don’t have to use any freedom unit tools when messing with this damn thing. Every screw on this board is now metric.
- 13s5p 30q battery built by yours truly, shaped specifically to fit in @Eboosted enclosure which he designed for 10s5p
- Subsonic talon deck with downhill flex, custom glass frit grip also done by myself
- Maytech 6880 190kv motors, 17/40 ratio with metroboard motor pulleys and @dickyho wheel pulleys.
- 2x Focbox - settings are FOC, 90/45 and -60/-18 I believe, or something similar
- Surf-rodz 200mm black hangars (80mm hangar bolts) with @lrdesigns press fit adapters, and some old @marcmt88 mounts I had laying around, purple 45 degree baseplates
- remote is mini remote with fish hook mod by @danile using two receivers instead of canbus or split ppm
- Abec 107mm superfly wheels
Pictures (please excuse the poor photography):
First, here are some pictures of the build in its finished/almost finished state. Some of the photos are from when I still had my TB 6355s mounted.
Profile shot
Here is the enclosure and everything inside.
Closeup of the wiring between battery and focboxes
P groups are connected by tinned copper braid. The battery P groups aren’t all flat, the 5th cell in each group had to be raised due to the shape of the enclosure. Also, the 7th P group was split up near the nose of the enclosure, with 2 pairs and 1 single cell soldered in parallel. I used fish paper to insulate those cells from any exposed braids, and there is no risk of shorting in that area bar any catastrophic failures. I also used fishpaper anywhere else it could be needed.
BMS wiring harness
harness in action
You might also notice that I don’t have a BMS in the enclosure. In order to save space, I had to make a number of sacrifices:
- I had to create a BMS harness to balance charge externally whenever I decide to. This means that charging normally through the charge port on the enclosure is not balancing. This isn’t a big deal, I haven’t had to balance charge yet. I suspect that since I only ride once a week on SF group rides, I’ll only have to open this thing once every couple months.
- I had to remove most connectors and solder power wires directly together.
- Even if I wanted, I wouldn’t be able to fit an anti spark switch, let alone a beefy one for a 13s5p battery, so I had to use an as150 anti spark plug. The way I mounted it is heavily inspired by @Deckoz (as well as the way I squeezed in 65 cells lol).
A few things to note:
- Eboosted enclosure is for an earlier version of the Talon I believe, so its just about an inch too long. I filled the gap in the front with a D-shaped rubber seal.
- I now have braided cable covers
- Unfortunately, there are 1-2 threaded inserts that back out no matter what I do, so I’m currently ignoring them. It’s fine, I have 16 other screws holding the enclosure and battery and stuff to the deck.
A few things I would definitely do differently if possible
- get a stain on the Talon. While the look has grown on me, I still kind of regret getting an blank Talon. Subsonic gives options to get custom colors stained onto your deck for only $5 extra or something.
- Use the knife thread inserts (these https://www.ezlok.com/e-z-knife-inserts-for-hard-wood) instead of the kind I used (these https://www.ezlok.com/e-z-hex-threaded-inserts-for-soft-wood). The former have never backed out on me, even without epoxy.
- less, but bigger screws. I’ll use like 10 m5 screws total next time instead of 18 m4 screws, idk why I ever thought using 18 was a good idea.
I was also wondering why you opted for 2 receivers over a canbus wire. What are the benefits?
