Yes shouldn’t make a difference
Just a quick update on the Hall sensor settings… I don’t know if I was just doing something out of order or it was because the motor wires (three power wires not the sensor) had to be shuffled around a bit to get things lined up, but I went through all the steps today to get it set up in FOC with the Hall and it was great. I changed my motor settings a bit too based on some suggestions from Trampa. Screen shots:
I only have to get my controller calibrated on PPM now… it’s close enough to work as it is, but I should do the adjustment.
Braking was so much softer at high speeds on my test ride… Feels safer… I don’t think I’m hitting my highest possible speeds yet, and it’s plenty quick at 50amps max.
I’m getting a little wobble, but I haven’t been on a board in awhile still think I’ll move the springs on the front back to the outer position. With the commute I’d rather a little more stability than a nimble turning radius… not going to get that anyway…
I had my meter on the xt60 again, so I just cut it off and threw some tape over the little ends. Didn’t want to re-solder that thing AGAIN… I’ll throw a piece of heatshink over it to ensure the tape stays put… and will need to solder some length to the meter wire to reach the spot it’s supposed to be in.
Should have this thing all wrapped up early this week…
Imo, i would lower your batt max to 30A, you’re running a dual setup
aahh… that’s what the difference is… at the dual. will do! Should I set it at 25 to match the 50 motor max? When I set-up in the first place I did it directly to each ESC via USB. At this point if I change settings, I can FWD over the CAN, right?
When setting up, be carefull when doing CAN fwd’ing, it will overwrite the sensor table. That’s the tricky part with sensored setups, the sensor table is different on each motor on a dual setup (all the time)
I would recommend to have your motor max from 50 to 80A on each (depending on your riding skill level) and your batt max under 30A on each
80A?! that’s a lot, no? Kaly was suggesting 60A Perhaps I’ll throw it back there… My skill level with the body on the board is pretty high… throwing the thumb into the mix is odd, but that’s only been a few minutes of riding at the moment.
I think I’ll just stick with doing the motor set-up with an opened up board and doing it individual. I don’t see myself changing the settings all that often once I get it dialed in.
60A is perfectly fine, just stating the limits.
Haven ridding the same exact setup, 60A is more than enough to scare the shit out of you 
60 it is then! 
a little fear in one’s life keeps things interesting. just have to know when to employ it.
So as you’re on the same set up and riding at 60A can I bother you for your spring positions / dampa or no dampa? I ordered some greens when I bought the deck just in case, but currently they are out with a outer position in the back, inner in the front… but thinking I’ll try outer/outer.
So I had my first ride from my studio to campus today! fun, but a little scary… the acceleration is a bit intense… I don’t mind the top speed being high (kinda like that) but it gets there a little too early on the trigger. Feels like it wants to be at the drag race! What can I adjust to smooth that out a little?
I have 130 in the absolute Max value in the Current Limits… If I click the Slow Absolute Max box will that create a softer transition, or lowering this value?
So I just realized that little switch on the enertion nano controller I have that says “slow” and “R-spec” I’ve just ignored the “slow” but it dawned on me that I could also make that adjustment to try things out… ya… well… that’s hardly “slow”…ha… not on this set-up anyway. now the acceleration is manageable on the throttle, I don’t fear my legs kicking out on the slightest touch…
I also want to make a note on here for anybody using this thread to help do a build… I purchased the antispark switch from DIY… This was a HUGE mistake. Don’t do it! First time on, and it just stayed on, wouldn’t shut off. Contacted customer service… Radio silence after forwarding me to a setup video as if it were my fault…
I mean sure, I almost blew my battery meter, but that really would have been my fault!
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With the start of a new semester the board was being ridden, but wasn’t actually finished up. Wanted to give it a few rides before setting the ESC’s down tot he heat sinks (because it’s easier to access prior to doing that) and obviously didn’t want to lock in all the wiring until the motors were done being sealed up.
Now I’m happy with the controller settings… dropped it down to 50 max motor and changed the motor min to 40…
I have the enersion controler and on these settings I’m currently using the “slow” setting and it’s fine, I anticipate being able to control the “R-Spec” setting after a few more rides and being comfortable on the board… at 60 max and 35 min the thing was semi manageable on “slow” but I wasn’t ready for it, and I didn’t see the need for the “R-spec” mode ever… and then the breaking was way too soft on “slow” but ok on “R-spec”.
Now that I’m happy with the settings I’ve opened it back up to finish things up and get it sealed from dust and water. Weather stripping the edges prior to adding a thin plastic later over everything (obviously need to wait until the motor sensor wires are through to do that.
Also got some Black Sugru to fill the holes where the cords come into the box.
Last thing I need to finish is wire meshing the motors, waiting on some additional machine screws for that. I got the front done as per instructions on @trampa 's build thread: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/official-trampa-diy-build-thread-street-and-urban-carve/22294
Also needed to alter the mount for my Blitzu front light. I’m adhearing it to the front of the board but it was bouncing out of the mount… drilled into the mount and the light where it slides into the mount and glued in some magnets… this should keep it from bouncing out. Need to reahere it to the board afterward. Using Sugru to do that.
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This will be a very nice board! Im excited to see the beauty once finished.
Frank
I recently find 12S charger, can you tell me which kind of charger you use it?
I use the Graupner Ultramat 18.
Frank
I haven’t been on for many months. Busy with work etc… The board has been great to ride as a commuter vehicle. Attached is the complete set up.
On thing I would not do if I were starting over is dropping in heatsinks on the VESCs when using an ABS plastic case, the material can not handle this modification and I have a small crack on both sides… It’s been holding in, but I’ll need to change the battery case soon. (to be clear, this is not a flaw in the case but the modification that I performed that it couldn’t deal with)
The battery charger I use, I bought my case, spot welded batteries, and charger from @Kaly
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About batteries - were they ready made or did u have to assemble and stick them together also?
I purchased the batteries spot welded and shrink wrapped. I think I had to order the cells first and shipped them to his location, but you’ll want to check w/ him.
If anybody in this thread knows somebody in Atlanta who wants to buy this build as is, let me know. I put over $2,000 into it. It’s gotten about a year of use and has been parked since a crash in late 2019. My controller broke, and there’s a crack in the battery case. The board would need to be taken apart and a new case put on. but that would be minor. I’d be happy to get 1,000 for it which would include a brand new set of street wheels. The board and trucks are in excellent condition. If I have to get it working via buying a new controller and battery case I’ll be repricing it at around $1,600 because I’ll upgrade the battery case and get it fine tuned. but would rather save the time now.
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Might have better luck parting it out man.
Not a bad idea, but that’s also more time, and I think I’d rather fix it up and get it rolling again than do that. Might end up gifting it to family, if nobody wants to buy it.
Hey man we are family here. So what’s up cuz? How ya been. My birthday is next month, hook a brother up.