Stay away from ceramics. Just use Bones Reds or something cheap and swap them out. Sure, water makes them fail – but the failure method of getting squeaky first then eventually getting hard to turn – is much preferred to the failure method of balls exploding and locking-up a wheel
I tried ceramics, full ceramics, and expensive steel, and I came right back to cheap Reds. Just stick with the cheap stuff but not the SUPER cheap stuff. Reds are perfect. And always keep new ones on-hand.
Be aware the Flipsky Nano remotes use pretty cheap switches. The ON/OFF button is broken and it fried the board. I’ve reached out to Flipsky for replacement or refund.
Sorry I wasnt more clear. The only broken piece is the remote itself.
The ON/OFF switch at the base broke and was loose in the switch housing.
I tried to turn it ON and the lights (showing it’s ON) flickered rapidly. I think it bridged the internal switch thus frying the board. If i have time i’ll open it up and show the fried circuit on the board. It’s about 1/2" fried from the switch location up the circuit board.
Just a standard flat pack with a small charge only bms like the ones pictured. Roughly 275mm (10.7inch) length * 140mm (5.5inch) width * 20mm (.75inch) thickness. Unikboards makes a great enclosure for 10s3p setups https://www.unikboards.com/en/ takes a bit to ship to the states though.
Case/Enclosure arrived. Pretty happy with it. Simple, and has the “L” shaped clamshell lid.
I think the best part is, the underside is sealed (well not in corners, but i can epoxy corners where the aluminum was bent up, so i’ll never have to worry about water getting in between the board and how it mounts to board. Plus with the clamshell lid, i can pop off for easy access if I ever need it.
I was thinking of just some weatherstripping around the lip and hot-glue/epoxy into the corners.
I would suggest only bolting it to the deck with 4 bolts – two on the front edge and two on the back edge. That way if/when the deck flexes slightly, the box will stay straight and not try to flex with it.
I would turn the motor so that the phase wires come out pointing towards the truck baseplate, and then turn and go back toward the enclosure. That will flex them less as you lean.
To add to this great tip, if you pack them with long life lithium grease like this one, they will take a lot of wet rides before drying out. Much less maintenance.
Product description
Molybdenum disulphide grease, for extreme conditions.
Super Long-Lasting Grease with MoS2 is a mineral oil based, lithium-type grease with very high performance, containing MoS2 (molybdenum disulphide).
Designed for bearings and assemblies using sliding rollers and bearings that are subject to high stress, in the automotive field and in industry, particularly universal joints (homokinetic joints).
Increases intervals between greasing; increases the lifespan of parts and equipment.