I am curious who recommended the 93a riptide wfb barrel bushings and 88a riptide wfb cone bushings in the first place.
muirskate had a bushing setup guide but it was a bad idea obviously didnt take into account how eskating difers from tradional longboardingā¦ so what changes would you make? i pmād you a pic of how tight i have been running my trucks which is way too tight apparently
@Alphamail Have I got the right pivot cups for these Randals?
They stand proud by 5mm when fully seated and are so tight a little material is shaved off during insertion, any suggestions? thanks
Pictured: - Riptide Pivot Cups (set of 2) - Durometer : 96A, Type : Randal / Surf Rodz / Wefunk Stealth Randal Baseplate - Baseplate : 35Ā°
Maybe a non problem, now I wish I hadnāt trimmed one down
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Can you get the hanger on Bro (@banjaxxed)? Looks like you did and they fit? You actually want the pivot cup/tube to come out to the shoulder of the pivot on the hanger to help support it to prevent lateral movement.
The white stuff is just WFB lube 
keeping them āWorlds Fastest Bushingsā 
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OK so I swapped the tb218 cups washers back to the atlas precision top hat washers and loosen the trucks because they were literally stupid tightā¦so tight the hanger was grinding 
So now running cup washer & wfb 93a barrel bushings boardside and atlas precision top hat washers & tb218 cone bushings roadside and riptide 95a Pivot cups.
the trucks are tightened to one groove on the kingpinā¦ I was told as you speed up they tighten up as in not be as carvying as they are very loose atmā¦
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They are the 35Ā°ones @Alphamail, looks likes like stupid came home to roost!
@Cobber is was a bit of a fight & nothing like sliding in a caliber pivot, I actually had to use a grip vice to get them in.
I canāt uncut the cut, back to sickboards for me,at least a spare will come in handy down the road & now we all know TB 218s will slot into a Randal baseplate fopr sure,which means youāre not stuck with 44 or 50 baseplates
Cheers!
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@stormboard1 I saw your PM and you definitely have them too tight. Rule of thumb for our bushings is tighten to the point where there is no slop but you can still turn the roadside bushing in the seat by hand. Tighten from there no more than 2 full turns for APS and KranK. For WFB, one turn maximum. In all the discussions, I have lost track of what you are trying to do so please recap here.
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My board was getting speed wobbles above 10mph I think how crazy tight I had them is to blameā¦Iād go and check but I sprained my ankleā¦ ! Video wonāt upload Iāll try later on my laptop
Randal is so over the map matching the BP hole diameter and the rough, oblate shaped Randal hanger pivot nose (the new ones are better now) plus the depth the pivot goes in to the 35 vs the 42 vs the 50, we opted to default to very tight to cover the wide tolerances we were confronted with. Some Randalās, I need to use a vice to install. Caliber trucks are much more consistent so we did not need to compensate for such a wide tolerance
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I put one of those pivots into the 35 Randal and Iāve been riding it with it sticking out like that, and itās a non-issueā¦it works fineā¦and itās still better than the stock. The only concern would be any added fiction from touching the hangerās āwingsā but itās not notableā¦
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@Alphamail, Iām doing a small build and plan on using some indy 215ās. The idea is to have stability at speeds of about 25mph max for my 185lb ass, but still have a decent carvy feel as i would like to take this setup in a bowl and just ride until dark. The Indys were purchased in 2008 if that makes a difference in measurements. Love your products and the value you add to the skate scene. Thanks
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You will need a longer wheel base or de-wedging of the indy 215ās to get them stable above 20mph, which means they will not carve a bowl at that point, they will lack the turn needed. Iāve done this.
I have a wedged indy 215 setup on a 19inch wheelbase and I can carve bowls with it, but I wouldnāt go 25mph on it, too unstable, but for slower speed freeriding and sliding it works well. Its just not a DH bomber by any meansā¦
As for bushings on the Indys the street kranks work well and remember to go a little harder than you think you need with such a wide truck, you have more leverage on thoseā¦
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Legit. 25 mph was meant to hedge my bets so to speak. Iām gearing 11/32 on some 76mm wheels, and planning to be quite conservative in my motor and bat settings. Nit looking for a speed demon. Looking for a fun minibuild/milkrunner/bowl cruiser. I know kranks are where i want to go, was more looking at specific shapes of street series bushings that would work best with the indys and for my application. Hoping to have @Alphamail to weigh in when he gets a chance, but thatās for your input @squishy654. No wedging! Lol
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Yes. PP reissue Cabellaro first iteration. A fine deck indeed! 
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OK often set up a āsynthetic splitā if an actual split is not an option, is that the case or can you de-wedge the rear a bit since it is directional and electric?
Was hoping to use your riser on thus project. Is a Dee wedging important? Would you recommend a different truck in the rear?
There are always compromises and ways to max or min the effects. I often run a synthetic split when it is not practical to change the truck angles. For your setup, I would suggest a ShortStreetCone / StreetBarrel front and a ShortStreetBarrel / StreetChubby rear in KranK 90a. Some 215ās were set up with a longer kingpin so you may be able to use taller bushings than what I have suggested here. Measure the height of the top and bottom bushings, they are normally .4" and .5" respectively. Let me know what you find.
