Sent you an invite
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How do we know if the TKP are the older ones or the newer ones?
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The boardside bushing has a primary and secondary step where the venturi shape goes angular, directly from the bushing floor
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Iām getting a psychotiller with rkp surf rodz. I weigh 240. Dave recommended double barrels. Do you have an opinion?!? I normally ride metros setup with a barrel and cone but I really compress the bushings.
I like the idea of krank changing with pressure but wonder if the correct duro with the other 2 formulas would hold me just as well but give a bit more turn.
Help?! So confused. Also, do the surf rodz not have washers somewhere? Do I need cupped or flat?
I wish the āalmost precisionā packs were riptide instead of venom
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Ours are not āalmost precisionā, they are precision 
I will have a recommendation soon!
OK. Please let me know ASAP!
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I need to know what your base plate angles are on the build
That, I have no idea of! I can ask big D.
Hey @psychotiller can you answer this man? Iām Ben H. Iāll msg you on fb
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Turns out dual 45 degree!
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OK @Thebreadsticks, thanks for the 45 degree base plate update. SZ RKPās can take three of our main shapes in out .6" tall longboard series of RipTide Bushings: Cone, Barrel and FatCone. We designed the FatCone specifically for the SZ trucks back when Wayne G. still owned the company because the trucks do not fit the Chubby very well and we wanted we wanted a ālarger than a Barrelā option for them. So there several ways you can set them up. Your trucks are both at 45 degrees and you can set them up the same front and back (symmetrical) or different front and back (synthetic split). In my opinion, it does not make a lot of sense to set them symmetrical unless you want the ability to go as fast forward as you do backward or you want the option to us the setup as a front or rear wheel drive. I will give you both recommendations below.
Symmetrical 45 degree 240 lbs: Barrel / FatCone Front and back KranK 93 or APS 95
Synthetic Split 45 degree 240 lbs: Cone / Barrel front and Barrel FatCone back KranK 93 or APS 95
As for washer selection, flats are less restrictive and cups are more restrictive and precision are the most restrictive. Often truck manufacturers try to be cool, fashionable or just donāt know any better, design their trucks to not use washers in some positions which is a huge mistake since washers are one of the most inexpensive (not precision washers though) and most effective tuning tools you have. SZ opted to ignore those benefits, supplying their trucks without a boardside washer and using a kingpin that acts as a flat washer. It looks nice but that is where the benefits end. Depending on the length of the king pin supplied, you should be able to add a washer boardside and or roadside, if not, you can replace the SZ grind kingpin with a slightly longer standard grade 8 kingpin. Please let me know if this cleared or added to the confusion regarding washers.
Currently setup:
Surfrodz 45 deg
Rear:
- 96 barrel (board side) krank
- 93 barrel (street side) krank
Front:
- 96 barrel (board side) krank
- 92 cone (street side) aps
I tried these:
Cup washers for front and back
- good stability but need steering!
- doesnāt hold the lean while turning. It felt like it rebounds the board back to flat too quickly.
Cup washers front (street & board side) and cup rear board side; flat rear street side
- good stability
- good initial steering but bad exit.
- perhaps bad user stance
Cup front and read (both board side); flat front and read (street side)
- edgy but I like how it steers
- scary at high speed.
- need more stability.
I like the board to steer w stability. I mainly carve.
Any recommendations? 170-180lbs depending in what I carry in my backpack.
TIA
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@pookybear My first thought is the durometers you are using are a bit high for your weight. The starting point for KranK compression is where you can still turn the roadside bushing in the bushing seat by hand so all the slop is out of the stack. From that point, you have about two full turns of adjustment. I suggest using the rear truck to be the the main return to center so try rearranging the bushings this way:
Front: 92a Cone streetside / 93a Barrel boardside Stare Rear: 96a Barrel streetside / 96a Barrel boardside
Start with flat washers in all positions and add cups where needed
All kranks for the suggested durometers above?
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Yes, use what you have currently to see if we can make it work better. If you have others to work with, provide a list if you can
I think I understand. Just not really sure what precision washers are, or what I really need. I thought they were super high end trucks, canāt believe thereās stupid issues like that. Gahhh
But I agree 100% that running a higher duro in back adds stability and improves tracking. Will definitely try what you recommended. Just dunno about krank or aps. I like the idea behind both. But kranks adjustable tension sounds helpful for dialing it in!!
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Precision washers are very specialized and not often used. APS is adjustable also but just not as much as KranK
Im guessing this is the newer one so I cant use the Chubby?
I think you are correct, I am starting to wonder if Magnums will fit.
do you guys have the new SR on hand?
Judging by the measurements they might work?
No, not the new iteration