hey guys! i bought a turnigy motor but will need help adding the keyway for my pulley. Im located in Venice and am willing to pay! if not, does anybody have recommendations for what kind of shop could do this kind of this?
thanks in advance guys 
cant wait to get this new motor up and running
@itsmikeholland cutting a keyway is really hard to do. I wouldn’t cut a keyway. You can just grind a flat spot with a file - $10 and some time grinding it down.
I’ve found that using a flat spot on the motor pulley works just fine. I’ve never had it slip and I rode a single motor board pretty hard without a keyed shaft. If you are worried about it, put threadlocker around your shaft before sliding the pulley on.
I’m sure there are those that will argue, but after building 30 boards (+/-) I e never needed a keyway. Flat spot for the grub screw and green loktite and you are good. If you need to remove the pulley just pull the grun screw and heat the pulley to release the loktite and pull it off, use gloves.
Do not use a keyway, just use Loctite.
Remove like this https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/how-remove-motor-pullies-in-30-seconds/57694
I had the same problem and I ordered red loctite and it solved the problem right away. Just to be safe let the loctite cure for 24 hours before riding
I ride my board 20 minutes after installing and it’s strong enough to pull full throttle
I’ll give the loctite method a shot, I have my doubts though because so many quick fixes have not stood the test of time. I’ve rode the same board for almost 3 years now and have had to replace EVERYTHING except for the things that were expensive, most notably the seemingly indestructable Chaka 4.12 Vesc. I can’t imagine loctite is gonna be pulling me up and down hills at least 15 miles a day for the next few years but it may be worth trying for the next few days. Thanks for confirming that it at least works pretty quick, I will probably end up just swapping the motor shaft with my old motor that has a keyway already. I shredded the internal bearings of my last Turnigy motor after just a few weeks and all but one of the screws stripped so I cant service the insides 
first build with a sk3, shaft didn’t have a keyway and I didn’t even put a flat spot on the shaft. just used red loctite and one grub screw and it never even budged a little despite abusing the shit out of it.
Trust me bro there is NOTHING red loctite can’t hold.
well thank you to everybody for the replies! I ended up using my metal hand filer and just did 2 opposing “flat” spots (I can never seem to keep the darn thing at a consistent angle when filing) for my 2 set screws and that did the trick!
I don’t wanna sound ungreatful for the advice but seriously Loctite just doesn’t seem like something we should recommend for this, I mean who has a butane torch just laying around? Also, having a purely mechanical bond just makes things so much easier to work with, especially on the fly.
Thanks again guys!
even with a keyway the grub screw should be loctite’d, the screw will back out without it over time.
also, no blowtorch needed, i use a $15 heat gun and it melts the loctite. you know its loose when it releases a little wisp of smoke.
There is so much fear against Loctite and I really understand them all as I myself had way too many horror stories stripping screws in the past and ending up hammering screws out. All this happened because I didn’t have a heat gun or blow torch. Once I knew you need to melt the Loctite i knew I was never going back to keyways or screws backing out.
I’m really happy and confident on every single bolt of my skate