I’m familiar with the method of adding heat shrink to insulate phase wires. Unfortunately this 6372 enertion motor seems to be shorting in multiple locations…stator is actually lose. I have some west systems 105 epoxy resin…does anyone know if that could withstand the heat in the motor?
I used some epoxy in one of my motors and it holds up. however there was no short, but if you’re just a bit lucky that could fix the problem. There is also specific heat resistant epoxy out there.
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That’s what had me thinking about the epoxy resin…not sure how else to secure the stator.
All the Stators I’ve seen come with a keyway cut in them but then almost all of them are just pressed onto a ribbed aluminum bearing shaft and the keyway isn’t used. Maybe use the keyway by simply banging in a nail and it’ll cut a keyway on the aluminum side as u go in. (My keyways come filled with glue so can’t) If u do go the epoxy route get some high heat epoxy as was said. It’s expensive. Omega100 is able To be gotten in small quantities. Or get w thermally conductive high heat epoxy. Henkel makes some but I think it’ll be hard to find in small quantities.
Just tried pulling the can off and the stator came with it! See pics. Freaking disappointing, less than two miles on this Enertion motor.
Ouch! Did you contact enertionsupport to get a replacement or repair? Components fail… but that sucks. Luckily the few times i’ve needed warranty support they’ve really impressed me. Hopefully you have a similar experience here.
best of luck!
Yep @carl.1 needs to step in
high quality, better then rc motors? so so
Have u tried contacting enertion and see what they have to say?
Don’t want to be annoying but you messed up the cable shielding of your phase-wires. Just be warned that shorting phase wires has damaged VESC’s drv’s in the past…
The wires are actually even more torn up than the pics show. Not annoying, didn’t know it could lead to blowing the drv chip.
Are you guys epoxying the copper wounds so they don’t get loose from vibrations? I’m a motor noob.
That’s what I’ll be trying this evening.
There is a key slot on the stator, but no corresponding slot on the base post.
i wonder if they typically use keyways and forgot to machine it in the bearing tube as well, because every motor ive seen that doesnt use a keyway has a grooved ribbed surface (think trojans) and then the stator is pressed on. this is an anodized smooth surface you have. that’s what the aluminum version of the motors I sell has and I had to glue them all down.
since you have the stator off you could add a spot for a keyway. maybe run it a pass on a mill…I dont know how they do it. then bang one in. maybe you can get Jason to send you some super dupper thermally conductive epoxy and using packing tape as a mold you can glue/pot it to the bearing top end plate and then you can tell us if it keeps cooler. pot the whole stator and all its’ windings to make it waterproof and short proof. get the best stuff you can find!