Carbon Jet Spud | Freebord Bindings | Single VESC | 10S3P LG HG2

@whitepony You are my hero!! No bullshit… You are so good at taking pics of the process and the results are always awesome. I’m following this thread…:grinning: :popcorn:

love the wraping over of the CF so much better than just cutting in at the edge.

havent tried the bindings yet - the quick testrun to check for board structural stability was just some downhill with a few evil bumps to see how the board takes it, no bindings attached to the board yet.

I plan to jump a few stairs, do some ollies over stuff, maybe some 180s - just things I couldnt really do with the other boards. basically what I did with the trampa, but that one was way too heavy (read: Im too weak). bit worried though that the soud might be too stiff - I played a LOT of tennis in my youth and got a few knee issues, which is one of the reasons Im so madly in love with the extremely comfortable vanguard. :heart_eyes:

been busy with the enclosure during the portugal vs france (poor ronaldo :pensive: ), used hard foam again and I can already see that it gave in in one spot, about 2x2cm sized small dent. :confounded: very annoying, but I dont see how I can work with wood like on my tesseract, since the board and the routed base for the enclosure is bent quite a bit, so I need the flexible hard foam as mold for the vacuum bagging. bah, Ill see tomorrow evening. not looking forward to unwrapping under these circumstances. :frowning2:

1 Like

Wow… amazing job as always.

1 Like

@lox897 if your spud is still the raw deck, could you measure the stock weight for me?

wish I had tried out the deck before I did all these modifications. usually, I always ride new decks a little manually and then get going … or not. this time I was so sure that this is the way to go that I didnt even test it. would love to know how stiff that board actually has been before my changes. Im really a friend of some flex, helps my knee and everything actually. right now the spud is the stiffest board of all my builds - and all that because I was so afraid after the routing — felt like the board was about to snap anytime when I just looked at it. must say that Im a little surprised about this outcome. :confused:

then again, flex only does something for damping when you are actually not standing directly on your trucks. so medium or stiff flex … either way the spud will be a pretty direct stiff ride!

Another great build! Learned something from it. Can’t wait to see the enclosure with it.:thumbsup:

1 Like

I don’t have the deck yet, but when I get it, I will measure it.

1 Like

I know that a dent in the enclosure will keep bothering me, so Ill most likely just do it again with something that will widthstand the pressure of vacuum bagging. stupid hard foam - this stuff NEVER held up so far, always some partial dents, but I also need the pressure to get halfway decent sharp features.

used the waiting time of the resin curing now and skated by a local carpenter to pick up some cutting leftover mdf that the nice guy even cut me to the correct dimension for free. :heart_eyes:

then used my router to round the edges and will use some 1-2mm thick leftover gfk, pvc and cfk plates to model the concave of the board roughly. Ill be wasting some height like that going from slightly rounded to perfectly flat but cant have it all.



Do you notice a difference using an MDF mold vs regular plywood for vacuuming? Like is MDF more porous so the air flows more evenly? I want to try an MDF mold for my ABS vacuum former.

haha, youre probably overthinking this! mdf is just really cheap and easy to work with … and its hard enough for the occasion. :yum:

hmm, against all odds and a clearly visible dent through 2 layers of breather, the enclosure came out great!! :sweat_smile:

very smooth top

nice and evenly rounded edges

usually you have these crumbled edges where the bleeder foil is crumbled. no idea how to get around that. its easy enough to sand though!

and a slight concave following the routed compartment. thats the cool part of the hard foam mold - it follows light curvatures just from the vacuum pressure!

off to hours of sanding :stuck_out_tongue:


What do u think of doing rounded ends as you’ve done them vs the ground-off edge mastercho did?

Mastercho could you do a rounded edge like that with an infusion and the core you used? Maybe another core

Off to the mold making store! Thanks for you’re great info.

A lot of sanding. I don’t want to do any and want to make it pop out done. The greatest pop out possible

What foam did you use sorry whiteponny I’ll search the thread …impatient…Oo you just used the foam as a mold Remember the hydroflex video? That looks like it could pop out done

not sure what you can do with vacuum resin infusion, but with a layup like I do, its basically impossible to achieve real sharp edge contours. a few layers of carbon will always smooth things out and youll have a rounded edge and thats partially a random process, because of the way a vacuum bag works during evacuation.

basically, while evacuating the vacuum bag, the surface of the bag will be pressed onto some other surface (board, other side of the bag, whatever else there is) and the friction becomes really high. problem is, that the bag starts as a plane 2D surface until it realizes that there is actually a 3d mold under it with increasing atmospheric pressure / decreasing pressure inside the bag. now, these bags are really resilient, so it stretches a little, but not very much … and due to the strong friction its not able to give in a lot which also adds to the rounded edge problem.

that vacuum bag thing can be sorted with either a very stretchy bag or, like I did, you work the bag with your hands during evacuation and make sure that there is enough bag material right around where 3D surface changes are, so that it wont have to stretch a lot … meaning that it will follow the mold better and also allow sharper edges. I also worked with the wood block to stretch the bag in the right placed so it will allow sharper edges!

overall its so hard to explain - youll know what I mean once you watched a bag evacuating the first time. :slight_smile:

problem with these rounded edges is, that most often under the carbon, there is this cavity of the edgy mold vs. the rounded carbon layers, that will either be filled with resin or air - so Id always try to make it a little easier and just do a rounded mold right away, because in the end you want mostly fibers with minimal resin!

about the “unwrap and done”: think that will never really happen unless you skip the breather layer that soaks up excess resin. the moment you have bleeder + breather, youll have small breather pimples on the carbon and probably a somewhat crumbled surface where the not very stretchy bleeder foil wrinkled a little (lacking a lot of vocabularly here I think). if you dont soak up the resin, then it might form a beautiful surface like the mastercho board topside, that has a mirrorlike finish from the acryl sheet. but thats just one side - if you check mastersho’s roadside, it looks like my enclosure! :wink:

ok, off to sanding now, laters :smiley:

p.s.: I used XPS hard foam, think in english its extruded polystyrene high-resistance foam, 30kg/m^3. think the higher this number, the more pressure resistant it will be!

by the way, this is NOT foam core material, its just material to make a mold!


Wow this is looking so good can’t wait till its done

Waiting for a 360 :wink:

Only it’s possible if you include the rounded edges in the mold and then you are stuck with one design of the board.

back from cutting, sanding and drilling holes! it was a little dark already, couldnt take any nice pictures with sunlight on the carbon texture anymore … but got a few impressions at least.

starting with drilling holes from the boards topside right through the boards roadside carbon layers and the enclosure lid with a 3mm drill bit that wouldnt hurt the M4 threads of the inserts. you can spot the tiny holes if you look closely! I left the foam mold on the board so you can have a look at it - its very simple, all I did was cutting a correctly sized rectangle from a larger industrial XPS foam plate and rounding the edges a little. note how I also rounded the boardside edges because of the rounded edges of the carbon compartment in the board - the vacuum bag will pull the foam down to the ground of the compartment and bend it smoothly around the mild concave - but for that to happen the foam piece had to be a perfect fit for the rounded carbon ground!

fuck yea, you can see right through all 10 holes WITH the enclosure attached! :smiley:

and the m4 inserts are perfectly hidden under the carbon:

enclosure is a nice fit, it actually sticked to the board from the adhesive effect of water alone :slight_smile:

transition board surface <-> enclosure is ok, I couldve cut the lid a little slimmer, but didnt want to cut too much around the drilled holes.

note how the texture of the enclosure carbon perfectly transitions into the texture of the board carbon :sunglasses:

its really slim

tomorrow Ill route the motor wires LHB-style :relaxed:


That is some beautiful work!!!


Beautiful craftsmanship! What would the materials cost for a project like this? (board, carbon, resin, vacumebag & extra layers) really inspiring but i hear carbon gets pretty expensive quite quickly.

board 85€, used up about 1m^2 carbon and maybe 0.5m^2 of breather/bleeder, the vacuum bag is holding up since forever now, finally about 500gramm resin and 1m sticky tape, so probably around 50-60€.

tools used: springsteel ruler hand router & some clamps for guided vacuum pump dremel for cutting vibrational sander


this is just insanely awesome stuff mate, love it, thanks for sharing!!

What are the inside measures of your enclosure, especially depth and width? And are you still tempering your CF work?