Carbon Jet Spud | Freebord Bindings | Single VESC | 10S3P LG HG2

ESK8 Builds
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41

the compartment cut was 37.8 x 14.0cm (I think when I drew it on the board I pretty much just fit it between the wheel wells, hence the weird length. I knew from my keynote sketch (37x14), that it had enough room for a 10S3P battery, 1 vesc and some wires + antispark on/off switch:

spud_freeboard.jpg800×298 73.3 KB

I then adjusted the foam block slightly to the always slightly varying carbon layup result, so I actually made the block a little smaller with 37.5 x 13.8cm.

tempering? nah :yum: I did that on my very first vacuum result in the small sauna of my parents where I still used crazy air grade CF and air grade resin that, after tempering, reaches slightly better material properties including heat resistance until 120°C. didnt really feel like I needed that though, feels a little overkill. its just a skateboard afterall, didnt plan to fly to the moon with it. :smile:

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thanks man, that seems small! Would be guessing a tight depth of 2cm or something? And you are going to skip the BMS right?

One more question re the CF work: I live in a small two room apartment in town, how bad is the smell while doing CF work?

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i wouldnt call it small - more like “sufficiently large”. :smile:

yea, exactly 2cm height, you get these foam sheets in various thicknesses - 2cm is perfect for 18650 cells though - theyll end up at quite exactly 2cm with thick shrink tube, then Ill glue in some felt sheet that will just put a little pressure on the cells to fixate them.

and yea, no bms! too many batteries worked out far too well for too many discharge cycles. secret is probably to use quality cells and to treat them well. ill do maintenance every now and then and check the serial voltages by hand.

about the smell: I usually prepare everything so that I can work fast once the resin is set up, layup takes maybe 5-10minutes. I mix the resin outside and stir it well for 1-2minutes, then do the layup with open windows, then seal it in the bag, apply vacuum and bring all things with resin outside. once in the bag, there is no smell anymore. i keep the room closed with open windows anyway, cause I dont want to listen to a vacuum pump for 24h! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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:astonished: you keep the pump going? I thought I could just lock the bag off after a while and switch the pump off?

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Thanks for sharing all this information, now i want to make my own CF-re-enforced board :slight_smile:

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tbh, I never tried what happens if I switch the pump off, but Im nearly 100% sure that I would fairly quickly loose pressure. not sure how the roarrockit kit works and what pressure it keeps up constantly. my pump manages about -900mbar and its meant for continuous pumping.

Ill try it someday 
 would feel really stupid if the bag actually held pressure haha :joy:

its a lot of fun and you can do a lot of stuff with a vacuum pump, especially building your own boards! :smiley_cat:

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I am planning to build my own battery packs for the first time. What balance charger do you use for 10S ?

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no balancing charger at all, Im just using the evolve 10S charger which is a laptop kind of thing - just “±”. I havent had any drift in so many batteries with partially quite a lot of cycles, Im doing maintenance every few months and then I check about drift. so far Ive always been “disappointed”, all identical voltage up to 1/100th volt!

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last big picture attack!

started with drawing the LHB wire channels on boards topside - this time no silly rectangular shapes but something that the 3 parallel wires can actually follow:

exiting right next to typical rubber pads, which are a little wider than most truck baseplates:

routing, this time by hand since the geometry and the router base plate didnt allow to go with reasonable guides. it was quite messy, because with the big router baseplate, I routed a lot of different and varying depths, so I had to adjust height frequently, reroute, repeat. a little annoying and not very surgical like my electronic compartment. but it works and wont be visible anyway, 3x 12AWG wires in!

and they exit directly in the electronic compartment:

my useful little helper for the 90° bullet connector insert:

really a lot of tin and allowing it to sink in really deep

3 wires done, now off to heat shrink

got very thick shrink tube with glue inside, because I dont want them to short the motor phases via the carbon roadside. this shrink tube is really super sturdy!!

hammered them in (6.5mm drilled holes just barely fit, I really cant remove or stick them in further with my hands, had to use the hammer

glued the wires to the wood and closed the exits with glue too

this time no resin mess, just used putty to level it out. Im not sure if this will stay intact, but Ill try. really didnt feel like resin, gfk, vacuum bag, wait for another 24h, screw up the roadside carbon finish, because resin somehow always finds a way to make a mess
 :stuck_out_tongue:

apply vicious grip and we are basically done here for now :heart_eyes:

trucks arent mounted yet, board is just sitting ontop of the trucks for some pictures :sunglasses:

motor wire exits

fixated the enclosure just with 2 screws and even with 10 screws missing, there is hardly any visible transition between board and enclosure.

need a break now :thinking:

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50

This spud looks just amazing !!! This should be factory manufactured board for the masses :slight_smile: Hub motor would be nice instead of belt drive to go along with stealthy carbon look . Amazing !!

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Is the front truck mounted reverse?

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lol haha yea, i just took the 2 trucks and put the board on it, its not actually mounted, just for pictures, didnt really pay much attention to that :joy:

corrected that picture before anyone tries to copy that :smile_cat:

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exactly what I thought, but Im still extremely sceptical about the riding comfort of hubs, otherwise I might have ordered a pair of hummies by now!

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What are you going to use for the on/off switch and to check battery-life/voltage when riding? Also where are you located? (so i can steal this board :heart_eyes:)

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on my vanguard, I used the smallest of these kind of switches that I could find:

think I might go the same way with the spud, using an antispark device with a simple and very small switch.

I never really needed to check battery voltage. usually you can feel quite well where the batteries are by doing quick topspeed checks. otherwise I know by now how much energy I need depending on how I ride. anything between 9 and 15kWh per kilometer.

generally, I cant have anything with LED background lights on my boards - its giving away too easily from too far away, that Im not running a regular skateboard. dont want to attract police too easily :relaxed:

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That’s true
someone should make 90mm urethane for hubs.

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Master of Aesthetics !!

: )

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Whitepony can you give me advice ?? What can I use to fill those handle-holes in the deck ? I would like to fill it somehow and later sand the whole deck and paint it. I want to attach space cell pro 4 case . The thing is I would like to use wood inserts for the screws.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Longboard-Downhill-top-mount-quality-skateboard-blank-9-75-x-37-ZENITH-/172209350759?hash=item28187a2867:g:R90AAOSwH71XOmKF

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hm, thats a lot of room to fill, not sure actually what you could use that would also support inserts. putty/filler is probably too soft, also would suck to just artificially make the board heavier. :stuck_out_tongue:

are you sure that the space cell enclosure is directly ontop of those handles?

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Won’t the freeboard bindings defeat that purpose? I mean you are obviously not pushing when your feet are strapped in them. So the “stealth factor” is gone anyway - might as well go all in and have an LED switch and voltage meter.