Any commercial board? Yea, but commercial boards have their perks too. In terms of raw performance, I’d say it’s better than the top commercial choices out there (Evolve GT, Boosted 2, etc).
The Raptor 2 has yet to be a proven product so I can’t say it’s better or worse than it. So far, there’s no hub drive board that can outspec belt drives.
At what amp does the wire you are using melt and disconnect? I think it will be an awesome thing to have for my battery once my cells arrive in case one goes bad after a while. You just soldered the wire to the cells and nickel strips right?
well each cell can deliver 30a peak so i definitely don’t want 10a rated wire. The fuses are only there in case of a catastrophic cell failure, thus the 40a rated wire.
Yea current output is based on voltage and resistance. If they fail or short, you can see VERY high amps (in the hundreds from a single cell). It can also blow before 40 amps if the wire gets hot enough, but it’d normally be high current that causes it to heat up that much.
While the pack can output 80a continous, you’ll want to be further away from 80a in order to prolong battery and cycle life.
And those trucks are the same as the Enertion set of trucks correct? I am purchasing a used Raptor soon and may convert to dual 12mm. Oh and Thanks for the quick reply man I’m glad im not the only one cruisin the esk8 forums at 1AM . Your builds are awesome
can you show the battery holders you made and explain them? are they compression connections or maybe you just soldered the fuse wires on and the copper strip to that.
These were 3D printed by @mccloed with drawings from @chaka. You can find the print from chaka’s cell level fusing thread. I soldered 22 AWG wire to the brass bus strips, then to the cells themselves. 160 joints, do not recommend, haha.