Carvon Direct Drive Tuners Thread - Share your tips, tricks & recommendations

You can try bypassing bms for discharge (be careful, watch vesc setting and live data).

Does your bms have bluetooth/serial?

I was having trouble with studdering on the initial acceleration. I doubt you have the same problem as I did though. Enertion had somehow switched the slow and fast positions on the nano remote (didn’t match the sticker). It took a while with them diagnosing through remote access before figuring it out.

IN my experience the first of the preorders from companies always have issues. I may just wait with my future purchases

I know these are older drives but can anyone tell me off the bat what size these screws should be? I want to order some so they’re here when I get back from a work trip. image

M3

Is that a 2/2.5? If Jerry used the same size as V3/V4, that screw should be M3. He was diagnosing someone’s board on my truck bed last week and had to remove one of those screws that was stripped. He told the guy to get M3

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Just pulled one out of the other side and it looks like M2x6mm but my verniers are at work and have nothing to compare to…

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@thisguyhere @Moros @sayekim

I’ve experienced basically everything you guys are talking about and want to share what I’ve learned. My settings are 80 motor max - 100 motor min 25 battery on a 10s5p 30q and dual FOCBOX.

  • I rode my board to school it was 32-35C that day and my ride was about 6 km on flat slightly uphill maybe a 1-2% grade for a 0.5km stretch with some bridge overpasses that were to go over an 8 lane highway. After riding for 5km and stopping at the market to buy some lunch I touched my motors for half a second and noticed they were really really hot, sadly I didn’t have a temperature gun but I would guess it would be what @sayekim reported in the 90C range. When I was done at the market 15 minutes later the drives felt a little cooler but still very warm, then after about another 3km I started to go up the slight hill that was a 1-2% grade and was pulling the throttle all the way down and noticed I was barely accelerating and I couldn’t even make it up that hill… so I pulled over and felt the motors and nearly burned myself it was extremely hot I sat there for 20 minutes till they sorta cooled off then started on my commute again kick starting it and the throttle felt noticeably weaker than before, however, breaks worked fine. That same night I got home and took apart my board checking for anything that might have gone wrong causing the hot motor issue and 0 throttle and found of the white wire on the sensor broke (on the side connecting to the FOCBOX) so then I unplugged the sensor and ran sensorless. I also changed my remote from forward and break to just current since I was told that having the forward and reverse gives you better braking ability. The next day I went to a group ride in Irvine, CA with many others like the previous day it was a 32-35C, however, had a couple more hills and was a longer ride like 14km at the end of the ride after about 10 minutes of standing around @Mikenopolis felt my motors and agree they were still extremely hot stating they shouldn’t be like that. Jerry was there and checked them out and diagnosed it as my 10s battery I should upgrade to 12s which I was not aware of when purchasing the drives. I also had this weird motor noise which ended up being a bearing in the drive. I repaired the sensor wire and then got my board up and running as I was taking a trip to SF this past weekend, when I got there I quickly realized I was going to have to walk down or take alternate routes as the SDR would not stop me on those hills. I did go up a couple hills in the 25-30% grade but had a good run up tackling them at the 32kph range and maxing out at the 48kph but I did get the 0 throttle issue I was talking about before sometimes halfway up a hill the board would just give out and I would fell it slowing down jump off and grab the board and start walking up the hills the motors were not hot at all I grabbed them and they felt relatively cool, so I guess it’s not a heat issue? The same thing would happen on some flat spots and it sucked as a couple ACTON boards passed me… the thing that fathomed me was that ACTON and EXWAY had way more reliable climbing ability than my SDR as well as being able to safely break on those steep hills. Overall I’m pleased with my performance with my SDR as long as I’m going on a flat area or take hills going like 5kph (that’s how I was able to survive SF basically going like 5kph down a hill and hoping I didn’t get a red light as I would either barely stop or foot brake). I think I may have missed a couple things but covered the major stuff.
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Okay I’ve got some other ideas of what could be the cause that needs to be looked at.

@Yecrtz has the sdr too but his don’t get hot. He is using firmware 3.38 on his focboxes. Here is some metr info from when he was first riding.

image

@chris.hunt @ElskerShadow which firmware are you guys using?

The other thing is I used the perimetr app to first setup my motors via detection of motors first after reading them first in the app.

I will try some testing tomorrow or rather today actually when it is light again.

First I will try writing default values on the ackmaniac vesctool and then setting the focboxes up again in the tool and configurating the motors.

If they still over heat I will go to 3.38 writing defaults again first and then setting it up again.

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got some results tonight, upped the sensorless erpm value to 4000 for foc sensorless setup and the stuttering stopped, that’s good at least.

haven’t tested enough to check for heat buildup.

there’s this clicking noise tho…not going to put any miles on it until it’s worked out:

the horrible stuttering shown in the video is gone now with these settings:

image

image

@sayekim let me know when you figure out the upgraded firmware, very much interested in seeing how that works

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Interested to see if you figure out the clicking. It happens with mine as well

The clicking came up in earlier thread I can’t find now. Someone identified it, maybe was something related to spacers between stator magnets loose? Did not seem to have a solution though that I recall, but also more annoying than problematic? Something like that lol.

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for those of you with the clicking. Did you guys add heat shrink to the flywheel adapter prongs?

Mine was quiet for about 20 miles and started making a clicking noise. Turns out it was because the sharp edges of the prongs were wearing out the flywheel’s core/holes and there was a slight movement. I added heat shrink to them, put the wheel back on and the noise was gone. Maybe yours in not something as simple as this.

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Did exactly this on my TD clone/mbs adapters when I saw the teeth were cutting in (still haven’t received the updated re-machined adapter that was promised months ago). This also allowed me to fit Flywheels without the need for the flywheel adapter they never have in stock anyway.

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Yeah Mike is right. Didn’t have it at first but with new wheels after one day there was movement from digging in.

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Okay update. Tried setting it up starting from default motor settings on 3.1 and they still overheat.

Tried 3.38 and no difference still overheating.

Both test results are from setting up via the desktop app on a macbook.

I solved braking by upping batt min to -25. It is a lot better now

Both results are with these settings. 60 -45 25 -25

@LEVer I know you are busy but I need to know if I got faulty motors now because I have tried everything that I can think of.

are you running a 10s or 12s?

12s2p sanyo 20700b

@Yecrtz runs 12s5p on the rusty evo with sdr on 97 and no overheating.

when I spoke to Jerry he told me the overheating would be solved or reduced by using a 12s :confused:

Yeah when I read that it did not make me smile.

It’s 30℃ outside here… topping out at 49 degrees on 10+km rides.