Its good to know that they make replaceable PU for these cheap fish plate too, thanks for the info 
Found a few but i donno if its exactly for your wheel though.
Link1, Link2, Link3, Link4, Link5
Ask your seller if they sell these PU then it will be a direct match for your wheel.
Thanks, that seems like it (maybe slightly tinner on the outside peel, by 1 - 2 mm). I sent an email to the seller of the motor. Wait and see… By if we get it, it would be a first for electric skatboarders on the american continent !
My eBay seller doesn’t have the part and can’t obtain it. I need to find something else…
yuweng, Do you know what kind of antenna wire the ESC needs ? My remote only works for 3-8 feet… well more like 3 feets reliably. I would like to increase signal range between ESC and remote. I noticed picture on the internet of the Dual hub Reintech ESC can accept an antenna wire… Do you happen to know wich kind ? I think it must be a 2.4 GHz right ?
2.4 GHz IPEX wire ?
I think the antenna wire would have to be attached somewhere inside that blue circle…
Help!??
Ok, new to this website, so hopefully I’m posting this right. Last summer I decided to buy one of those cheaper “Small Fish Plate” E-Boards, and I went through a lot of hassles to get it. Debating on brands, very delayed shipping, very bad customer service, etc. It didn’t take long for it to break down, from outside modifications until it completely conked out. The questionable company didn’t reply despite many attempts at contact, so I took a chance and opened up myself. Luckily, I managed to bring it back to life, but it is still very finicky. So I’m opting to first fix and then upgrade it, rather than waste the inflated price I paid.
The main problem right now is seemingly whenever I hit a bump (like continuing to hit the sidewalk impressions after awhile), the (ECU presumably) beeps 2 -3 times and the board disables itself, but remains on. I don’t want to have that happen when I need the brakes on a hill. Yikes. After that, maybe upgrade the battery or make it swap-able on the go (The latter I already have plans for.) The rest like the motor power and such I can think about later. Any ideas or help would be immensely appreciated. Thanks.
Check if changimg the on/off momentary switch will silve the probem, the check that capacitor don t have a false contact. Check all connection are secure.
I ve had random cutoffs bc of loose capacitors on the ESac on BMS
Matador
Hello Everyone, I have a genesis tomahawk/Koolwheel electric board.The battery just died on me. Did some research to get a replacement, but it is about $180. Is there a way i can just upgrade the battery to something with more power and top speed with its current hub motors? I dont mind spending a bit more to do it.
Thank you!
The speed.and “power” is not only limited by the battery, but also the ESC.
You may see range and hill climbing performance improvements (less voltage sag).
https://forum./t/diyeboard-kit-pre-build-rebuild/4674/5
Come where the experts went. This is a good thread for exactly this scenario for example.
You think the best bet is to just pull the trigger on the battery and call it a day?
Pretty much, unless you want more range and have hills to climb. Don’t know where you live or if that is even an issue for you.
Gotchya…I guess ill have to build one from scratch as my next project. I was thinking i can use this board as the base and just mod it all up. I want the board to at least go 25mph. Im assuming i would need to change a lot for that to happen.
hi, got the archos sk8, inside is a reintech d60 v1.2… originally its 24v 7s i want to mode it to 10s, i will add a picture soon, but cant find the s6 and s7 resitor. got some other questions aswell:
best regards
maybe the board autodetects voltage or is 24v only…is it safe to try with a halffull 10s or can i destroy something ?
@kelevra You might very well fry something. But then again, it might also work. This is when we say “do it for science!”
Hello! PLEASE, I beg you (lol) help me because I’m losing what’s left of my hair over this: I have SZ01_A_v3.2, looks exactly like your friends board. I need it to use it to finish my “spare arts build” because it fits perfectly into my nilox doc skate parameters on 10S. The thing is when I desolder the 7S bridge esc turns on fine, accepts input (light is blinking when accelerating, telemetry is sent back to the remote), battery indicator seems to work propertly showing correct charge on 10S but THAT HORRIBLE THING doesn’t turn the motor. Nothing, not even a tick. funny thing is it works the same on 7S with the bridge on the 7S pads, spins up the motor etc. The onlly difference is it doesn’t turn the motor on 10S. Low voltage alarm beeps like crazy when I connect 7S pack when 6s & 7s pads are desoldered so it indicates further the controller is working fine. Please help me. Thank you in advance.
For anyone interested: while waiting for a reply I measured some resistors around the section that determines the number of cells. one 1M ohm resistor gave 0.5M reading so I changed it for unused 1.3M ohm, just like in the “13S mod” described above. ESC now spins the motor on 10S, nothng burned etc but I have a suspicion it’s less than optimal solution. Further tests have to wait for modding the aluminium case to fit the different board and it will not be easy because DOC NILOX skateboard has the most panzer tank tier metal battery case I have ever seen in a skateboard.
So anyone found a source of 75mm PU sleeves for hub-motors. yes i read this forum from start but i can’t find any link to web-site that actualy works thanks in advance
you could do like i did. just get a bike tire and cut the tread and glue it arround your wheels… Works great, ALOT less rolling noises and superfun sliding on wet roads. only downside is sacrifising on range due to more rolling resistance.