Wow holding them to the fire @WrinklyWink…
I would allow @torqueboards to do a little research before you start poking at him… And let’s put the sentences in context
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i would agree except when your paying the kind of money that his, onloops, or even chakas motors cost u expect the advetising on the most important thing to be correct
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@WrinklyWink - Our 6355 230KV motors will be in the range of 220-230KV (typically).
Our manufacturers do test the KV per each motor. The option of speculation would be how different the tester which you used and the method of testing the manufacturer uses.
I’ve been told that the Turnigy Trackstar Motor Analyser is a bit inaccurate. This is related directly from the manufacturer. I do trust the advice but it should also be tested.
Feeding you false information is not in our best interest for us as a business, for the community and even for the consumer and industry. If it is done so, it isn’t intentional.
We’ll do our best to fix and verify the information.
If you feel you were tricked in anyway. Please feel free to contact me and you can return the item.
The last thing I want is for you to feel unease about your purchase.
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Not for nothing…last time I checked …lower KV motors are a little more expensive than higher kv motors… So, looking at it…the value is there … If the motor proves to be a lower kv and is affecting speed…that can easily be countered by a pulley change …
I just want to say that from 6s- 12s this motor performers beautifully I’ve been so impressed that this little motor can propel a 220lb man up hill I’m extremely happy with my purchase the numbers maybe off depending on how you test it but in the real world it delivers.
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IMO you guys are lucky the numbers were wrong on those motors. 230+kv motors work well at 6s and 8s but they start to lag a little at low speed when you drive the voltage up.
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there isnt anything wrong with it but just think all products should be tested before selling
Like your car, treadmil, blender ? They test every one off the assembly line right?
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beats me but i somehow get what was orginally specified and not something that goes slower or faster
IAnd you know this because you test every thing…sorry I doubt that I’m sorry.
Let be realistic… @torqueboards orders them made…like everyone else … Hobby King , Enertion and the like…and they count on what was ordered to be correct. Because they aren’t bench testing every single piece that walk through the door…
@willpark16 you say it’s slower and we say more it’s has more power than spec … And that’s a plus…don’t you think?
It’s like getting that bonus onion ring at Burger King when you ordered just fries
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Im simply saying that if i order 20 motors from a place you can bet ill take a few minutes to test the kv and make sure they work before selling them to people. And im not saying its a good thing but its like trying to buy a tacon that i really want but then end up getting a 190kv sk3. Maybe better in some ways but i might have really wanted that high kv
Precision is key here. People are not crucifying for more given, we just prefer accurate information. In a world where “we want more” is an out-of-control goal, “we want precision” is actually more environmentally friendly and less greedy. And it allows the extremes of said goal to be applied to empathy, allowing for a more awareness of that which is unspoken.
Under the motor specifications are 19 (!) lines of information. To include all this information is either for puffing or for engineering advantage. Since I’m hopeful that its for the latter, the seller should hope that it is correct, otherwise, leaving it uncorrected or quietly overlooking the error (even per buyer basis) shows other intentions I rather not extrapolate upon.
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Unfortunately, I found this post a bit too late and after running my 245kv BigFoot 160 on 10s lipo I’m getting DRV errors. I’ve also been switching between FOC and BLDC, which I’m also reading is a nono.
So @chaka, heads up- I’ll be sending my VESC back for a quick refit and next time I’ll limit my volts.
Thanks for the awesome R&D on this front and all the up front knowledge sharing you do!
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From DIY warranty: " does not recommend putting a motor on a Skateboard or Longboard. Information on our website and products are only for educational purposes and not meant to be ridden" So it really doesn’t matter what the specs are now does it? These are expressly NOT intended for ESK8. LOL
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You guys are all crazy… Putting motors on a longboard 
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Absolutely, but having an accusatory tone? As if it were negligence or indifference on his side…
I’m mean how many of his motors have you tested to even make the claim of “puffing” … Have you tested another? Has someone else done the same test and have come up with the same results? You talk of precision … How percise were you when you did your tests? How percise are the instrumentas that you are using? Were you precise in your investigation that @torqueboards is “puffing” the facts? Let’s get real man…those specs, written by the motor maker…It’s marketing material … All of it is…no matter if it’s in paragraph form or bullet points
We’re blasting down the road on a piece of wood with a motor made for an RC plane…We aren’t building mini space shuttles to take us into space…or using it to save people lives … These motors are far from what would be considered precision in certain circles…
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I am new to this and have read for the past two days and not the best at electrics im more of a cnc cad milling kind of guy but I am stuck with once you have your vecs how do you connect that to your throttle controller?? I.e numb chuck or enertion hand held controller also would love other ideas on another way of controlling your throttle thanks delete if im mot ment to write this here
Throttle is controlled wirelessly with with a hand held Transmitter and a Reciever that is conected to the ESC .
@chaka I’m definitely not arguing, but I’m curious about why you make the calculation based off the max charge voltage instead of the nominal voltage? My experience has been that I’m only at 4.2v per cell for 5%-10% of the ride time I get, and then I’m at 3.8v for the majority of the usage. We’ve all seen the lipo and lion discharge histograms… the majority of the line is flat at 3.8.
Is it because we are at the greatest risk of VESC failure during that full voltage period? If so, could we limit amp draw or ERPM to protect ourselves if we’re out of this specification?
I’m about to switch from 8S Lipo to 10S Li-Ion and I’m wondering if it’s necessary to get a new motor (currently using a 245kv, but could go lower to 192KV to align with your suggestion)
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Some people run 245kv on 10s but it can cause problems. That is a really high ERPM. I personally don’t go over 230kv on 10s. The higher you go with ERPM the higher the chance of errors and blowing a drv chip.
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