I must have read this build thread about 5 times now. Fantastic thread man. Honest funny and real.
and the board well one of the prettiest esk8s out there right now. This and @Deckoz master evo are the reason why I have a 39 evo and @Eboosted enclosure winging their respective ways to me right now.
Probs going to go reverse for mine though and not because it looks gangster I just think that the evo is shaped like that for a reason and wedging it seems to somehow defeat the object. Could be wrong…I usually am. Love to know how it rides after a month of abuse from someone who obviously shreds and especially interested in how that fused battery is holding up? Not brave enough to build my own yet so doing loads of research and reading and standing on the shoulders of better men lol
Anyway again great build great board and when it all arrives I’ll chuck up a thread so you can all put me right when I go wrong.
thanks 
must admit this board was never built to be abused, it has no tail so only so much I can do with it 
battery is holding up fairly well the fuses wire no problems at all, a small issue with my abilities soldering 10 AWG - one of my serial connections came loose when doing an ‘internal 40 mile inspection’
I’m about to start my new build thread for ‘Shred Machine’ already started building the battery same style but this deck has some real pop so i do expect problems with fusing with it
I’m really happy with how maintainable my packs are, I can get inside, pull out the pgroup and actually visually inspect all the fuses - just next time I’m going 2x14AWG instead of 10AWG , lacks flexibility.
Def. recommend doing a build thread, even good to keep track of next steps etc. for yourself
I had trouble with 10awg too when soldering to a flat area. Once I got it tinned right and spread a little it went fine. Bms terminals is about as far as I venture into battery construction. I have trouble with the itty bitty little wires as my eyes are going.
If you’re doing another thread how about some more detail on the battery construction
help a brother out. 
hello @dareno, the evo was designed with randall 35 degree trucks in mind to have 50 degree in the front and 20 degree in the back to help avoid speed wobbles. i have an evo as well and can tell you it does feel twitchy after 20-25mph. so if you buy 50 degree baseplates trucks like i did i would suggest to buy angled risers to have at least 55 degree on the front. this changed the feel for me. now im stable at 35mph, also you should get in the thread “bushing setup help” from @Alphamail. he helped me with my setup and its just the way i wanted it now. Besides… riptide’s got the good sh…tuff man.
Thank you. Great info.
So either 35’s or risers or adjustable. Been all over that bushings thread. I like to go fast and not die. I don’t have the evo here yet but when it arrives I will take your advice and get it back to where it was designed for.
i bought torqueboards pro kit 2 with 218mm trucks, they feel good for me with 15’ khiro riser in the front and 10’ in the back so i end up with 50\25. (muirskate.com for angled risers )
as for bushings: krank magnums boardside(i like that they fill the bushing seat completely) and canons roadside(this are better than the barrels imho since they are a tiny little bit bigger). 87a duro; im 130lbs these are a bit on the hard side for my weight and need to use my body a bit more than the rest of ppl to turn slow but they keep me stable at 30mph+ and you look cool when turning lol
218s are what I’m planning on using. I’m just wondering how it will ride with the 50’ On the website LY sell the complete with bear grizzlys which look to me like the 50’. Doesn’t say though. I’m a big heavy guy at 240lbs (big boned not fat lolz) so I can do hard bushings. It would be nice to get the thing to carve as well as stay stable plus 35mph. Guess I’m just going to have to test it out and see. So much of this stuff is relevant to your weight and riding style. The only way to really know is to get out and amongst it. I’ll be doing a build thread once I start on the assembly so you can see how it goes. Thanks for the help and thanks to @sk8l8r for letting me bomb this thread.
Plenty of people use it with 50 degree trucks, see how that feels, you’ll definitely need stiffer bushings in the rear
I reckon you should know there my friend!! Its left the states btw 
I’m running the falcon on 50’s but I’m not a speed demon. It feels solid enough to me and despite the deck on caliber 2’s its actually quite carvy on the originals reds. I have a new set of 90a riptide bushings and cups to put on but I haven’t got around to it yet/seen the need for them on this deck.
how are hard brakes on full charge? Do you reach the voltage maximum?
so for the last few months I’ve been stuck in BMS hell…pack got out of balance (oh turns out my tiny bms sucked a littl)
1st BMS fried, from too much pressure and cold solder on my AWS10 serial connection, it just popped off when I removed the tape 
BMS didn’t even have one led to help debug, broke two troubleshooting intially 1st by replacing without checking the S connections, screwed 2nd one up fitting it
since this is my speed board I don’t want a dodgy battery there, so decided to rebuild the battery and use this one in build with full smart BMS (so I can see whats going on)
Building the P groups (my fav. part of battery building)
hot glue on cells (after checking all the voltages)
using 15mm nickel strip for the p-groups and 2x 20mm for connecting the the neg strip to the cell holder (miss-labeled)
looking at this pic now I think I could have gone longer on the welds but they were secure
added layer of fishpaper to top and bottom of groups, pre-cut the nickel strips and scuffed up the cell holders
hot glued the cell holders
welded 2x 20mm nickel stips to neg strips
soldered the 20mm strips to cell holder
using this fuse wire
welded on fuse wire to each cell - I don’t suggest anyone try this without some of practice on dead cells and really make some don’t rush it!
its not pretty but secure
soldered each used a 25w solder iron to cell holder - it really it quite fiddly but this stage is a seriously good test of the strength of fuse wire weld
used a 100w iron to make sure things are sound
wrapped each group in kapon
using a head torch to drain group slightly (this one normally takes 2 18650 cells)
Since I didn’t really have the confidence I should have, I decided to do at loads of bullets before touching a battery S group connection again
if they needed them or they have them now…
quickly discovered that my cheap ass 100w solder iron was total junk and it wasn’t my lack of skills
looking at the page now its even cheaper than I paid, totally worthless: it has no temp control so the tip melts! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000R9Y0ZK
got a real one this time, it made all the difference, so on with more bullets, I did my whole box O’VESCs / motors and even a couple of ramdom ESCs https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001P17CO
so now I actually have some solder skills, on with the series connection
this time no 10AWG I’m using 2x14AWG
BMS number 4 - all ready for the balance wires
last wires all ready to solder…
and boom…
I KNOW poor battery design - convenience > safety + and - next to each other is a bad idea
the Root Cause was a new gas solder iron to solder the think part bridged the battery terminals and caused a slight explosion
this is the damaged side, I think the explosion was caused by the gas igniting within solder iron
fixed… but I wish I had a my welder handy to build a new pack
all dead so far… should have ordered a 10 pack
…next victims arrived but I’ve decided not to use these anymore
Ordered a waterproof one WITH balance
new balance wires (I do like the red!)
rebuilt
this time taking no chances while soldering the on B+ | B -
I wanted to have the BMS above the cells, a quick prototype…
final version of BMS mount
finally charging! 
completed enc.
BMS mounting in foam
fish paper backing so foam does not disintegrate
added bullets to SK3s
added bullets to FOCs, I find it relaxing doing bullets now
found some really good quality heat shrink
group shot 
Lessons
- an inexperienced user doesn’t know when to blame the tools
- buy the best tools you can don’t be too cheap
- practice, practice and more practice, by the end of this I actually find soldering relaxing now, not before lol
Man, I am also thinking at a 13s. Did you have the chance to test for few hundreds Km your board?
yes I’ve done about 200 or so I keep seeing people say 13s is dodgy - I’ve got a spare 5p group lying around I’ve had to stop myself testing 14s since in theory it should be fine lol
Good, Is the BMS working fine? I was also looking to the bestech HCX-D099. I used their BMS for 12s and they seems to work well.
14s should be feasible with unity. or when @shaman finishes the 20s vesc that we are all waiting 
yes! finally really like this one and plan on using these again
I had a problem with one of my SK3s so decided to try out some 6374s I had lying about from @dickyho
spotted some 6384s @dickyho had and it looked like they might fit
6484 is almost same size as SK3!
6474 / SK3 / 6484
loads of space
if with 2X 12.5mm thick wheel pulleys, on this truck, I think OK for dual 6384.