Concealed | Custom Deck | Torqueboards Hub Motor (130Kv) and Trucks | 2 x 3s Zippy 5000Mah | 120A FVT ESC

I am helping a friend with a build because he loves long boarding and wants to have an e-board, but struggles with managing electronics. I already went through the process of deciding on what to buy with him, but as always there’s room for improvement. Here’s the current parts list:

Controller (60$): diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/torqueboards-2-4ghz-nano-remote-controller/

ESC (69.98$):

Charger (51.34$):

Batteries (25$ x 2):

Charging Adapter (9.99$):

Xt60 Battery Harness (9.80$):

Carvon Single In-Wheel Motor Kit (299$): Front_Truck___Wheels_Set.html

Planning to make a custom deck thick enough to house part of the electronics, and then a slim case out of wood that matches the board. We already have wood for that. (Most likely will go with design similar to that of beercanboards, so cutaways for the wheels and a handle carved on both sides). Overall goal is to make the e-board look like as much like a normal board as possible.

Total: 550.11$ (Without tax/shipping)

We haven’t ordered anything yet, so any suggestions for improvement are welcome. He would like to hopefully keep ending cost below 625$ if possible. I will update this topic as progress goes on, first pictures will likely be of the deck.

You could save a little $$$ by going with a GT2B for the controller. Usually under $30shipped. That cuts your controller budget in half. I’d suggest putting a little more $$$ into the battery budget. IMO

The batteries will probably only give you about 5 mile range and that will be used up pretty quick. You would do better to spend a little more, get 2 6s/5000 batteries and run them in parallel. Check all the 6s batteries on Hobby King. They have some killer sales at times. I bought some Zippy Compacts 6s/5000 for only $26 ea. Also when shopping on Hobby King. Bring up the page with the item you want and just sit there for a while. After a little time, they will pop up a discount offer. They almost always do. Before ordering anything on Hobby King, create a user account and log in. you’ll get better offers and it will be easier to track your orders.

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Could you post the link for that? I’m seeing 39$ per battery…

That sale ended some time ago. $39 is a really good price for 6s/5000

That esc says “2-4s” on it. Looks like you are going make a 6s battery in series. Don’t know how firm a cut off that is for voltage.

Am hopefully orderin parts tonight. Thanks @Arzamenable for noticing my mistake with the ESC, will be ordering a different one from eBay that is 6s capable. I’ll be updating this topic as the parts arrive!

This is a good tip. I usually pop up the item and then go do something on another tab. I circle back to it later and get the discount.

I got impatient waiting for the discount to pop up, so I found a site that just does it :slight_smile: Try and search for the item you want. They have quick links that show each discount available for each item, no more waiting around :smile:

Just make sure you select the warehouse that you want, cause the prices can be different for each one.


Here is a list of Esc’s that are tested and known to work with electric skateboards VESC 50a 12s DIY’s 120a 12s FVT 120a 6s FVT 180a 6s Castle Mamba Monster2 6s Castle XL2 8s Hobywing EzRun MAX8 6s Hobywing EzRun MAX5 200a 8s Hobywing EzRun MAX6 160a 8s Hobbywing XeRun XR8 Plus 6s

Already ordered the FVT 120A 6s. Thanks for the list though!

Last night my friend ordered everything else needed for the electronics. We ended up changing the Carvon kit to @torqueboards new single hub kit because it was cheaper and I had a good experience with the motor mount kit in the past. Also, included in what he ordered was the VGA charging adapter from Miamielectricboards (@oriol360). I watched the video about how to set it up and was wondering, would it really be safe to charge through a parallel port if the energy while charging can go to the ESC as well? I’m having trouble describing it, the video is on miamiboards website if my words aren’t clear. I was thinking of maybe buying a toggle switch that could change the circuit from running mode to charging mode so that no power could go to the ESC while charging. Any thoughts? Would it be safe to just use a parallel adapter for charging like in the video? (Charging will be at 5 amps)

Your setup should be something like this. I hope this helps! you can message me if you have any questions or email me also.

Ordered the last item that I forgot to mention a few days ago, the 2 X 3s to 6s charging adapter. Looks like this:

Last time I used one of these several people said to cut the red wire in the middle, several told me not to. I didn’t, and it worked for about 2 weeks before I plugged it in one night and my batteries started smoking. I ended up having to replace one of them. The only reason I’m using one of these adapters again is because my friend really wants in-board charging and this is the easiest way to do it (without a BMS). With that being said, I don’t want to ruin batteries that he just spent 50$ on. SO:

  1. SHOULD I or SHOULD I NOT cut the inner red wire 1.5) IF YES, can someone offer a scientific explanation as to WHY? Thanks :slight_smile:

As long s you connect them properly you shouldn’t need to cut anything first determine wich s3 is going to be your positive and wich s3 your negative once you determined this the proceed to connect your positive balance lead to your adapter and younshould use the one that gas the red cble on the outside (last cable being red) and the opposite for your negative

@Pablo_702 Don’t the little connectors have a small clip that makes it impossible to plug in the wrong way? That’s the way it’s been for me in the past…

To be safe, remove the red wire… The one time I did not remove the wire the adapter sparked and also caused my imax charger to start smoking. I’ve removed the red wire on all builds since then and everything had worked perfectly each time.

Follow this diagram exactly!

More info here:


@oriol360 This is exactly what I needed, thanks!

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Its confusing theres people saying if you connect them right theres no need to cut anything, i mde sure i connected them properly and charged my batteries and discharge them with balance leads connected nd it worked fine

I think I’m going to cut it as suggested just to be safe, especially after what happened last time