I am helping a friend with a build because he loves long boarding and wants to have an e-board, but struggles with managing electronics. I already went through the process of deciding on what to buy with him, but as always there’s room for improvement. Here’s the current parts list:
Planning to make a custom deck thick enough to house part of the electronics, and then a slim case out of wood that matches the board. We already have wood for that. (Most likely will go with design similar to that of beercanboards, so cutaways for the wheels and a handle carved on both sides). Overall goal is to make the e-board look like as much like a normal board as possible.
Total:
550.11$ (Without tax/shipping)
We haven’t ordered anything yet, so any suggestions for improvement are welcome. He would like to hopefully keep ending cost below 625$ if possible. I will update this topic as progress goes on, first pictures will likely be of the deck.
You could save a little $$$ by going with a GT2B for the controller. Usually under $30shipped. That cuts your controller budget in half. I’d suggest putting a little more $$$ into the battery budget. IMO
The batteries will probably only give you about 5 mile range and that will be used up pretty quick.
You would do better to spend a little more, get 2 6s/5000 batteries and run them in parallel.
Check all the 6s batteries on Hobby King. They have some killer sales at times.
I bought some Zippy Compacts 6s/5000 for only $26 ea.
Also when shopping on Hobby King. Bring up the page with the item you want and just sit there for a while. After a little time, they will pop up a discount offer. They almost always do.
Before ordering anything on Hobby King, create a user account and log in. you’ll get better offers and it will be easier to track your orders.
Am hopefully orderin parts tonight. Thanks @Arzamenable for noticing my mistake with the ESC, will be ordering a different one from eBay that is 6s capable. I’ll be updating this topic as the parts arrive!
I got impatient waiting for the discount to pop up, so I found a site that just does it
Try rcsearch.info and search for the item you want. They have quick links that show each discount available for each item, no more waiting around
Just make sure you select the warehouse that you want, cause the prices can be different for each one.
Here is a list of Esc’s that are tested and known to work with electric skateboards
VESC 50a 12s
DIY’s 120a 12s
FVT 120a 6s
FVT 180a 6s
Castle Mamba Monster2 6s
Castle XL2 8s
Hobywing EzRun MAX8 6s
Hobywing EzRun MAX5 200a 8s
Hobywing EzRun MAX6 160a 8s
Hobbywing XeRun XR8 Plus 6s
Last night my friend ordered everything else needed for the electronics. We ended up changing the Carvon kit to @torqueboards new single hub kit because it was cheaper and I had a good experience with the motor mount kit in the past. Also, included in what he ordered was the VGA charging adapter from Miamielectricboards (@oriol360). I watched the video about how to set it up and was wondering, would it really be safe to charge through a parallel port if the energy while charging can go to the ESC as well? I’m having trouble describing it, the video is on miamiboards website if my words aren’t clear. I was thinking of maybe buying a toggle switch that could change the circuit from running mode to charging mode so that no power could go to the ESC while charging. Any thoughts? Would it be safe to just use a parallel adapter for charging like in the video? (Charging will be at 5 amps)
Last time I used one of these several people said to cut the red wire in the middle, several told me not to. I didn’t, and it worked for about 2 weeks before I plugged it in one night and my batteries started smoking. I ended up having to replace one of them. The only reason I’m using one of these adapters again is because my friend really wants in-board charging and this is the easiest way to do it (without a BMS). With that being said, I don’t want to ruin batteries that he just spent 50$ on. SO:
SHOULD I or SHOULD I NOT cut the inner red wire
1.5) IF YES, can someone offer a scientific explanation as to WHY?
Thanks
As long s you connect them properly you shouldn’t need to cut anything first determine wich s3 is going to be your positive and wich s3 your negative once you determined this the proceed to connect your positive balance lead to your adapter and younshould use the one that gas the red cble on the outside (last cable being red) and the opposite for your negative
@Pablo_702 Don’t the little connectors have a small clip that makes it impossible to plug in the wrong way? That’s the way it’s been for me in the past…
To be safe, remove the red wire…
The one time I did not remove the wire the adapter sparked and also caused my imax charger to start smoking.
I’ve removed the red wire on all builds since then and everything had worked perfectly each time.
Its confusing theres people saying if you connect them right theres no need to cut anything, i mde sure i connected them properly and charged my batteries and discharge them with balance leads connected nd it worked fine
Try 
