Confirmation of my Wiring


Didn’t want to clog up my build thread. I realized that I probably should have just drawn the schematic instead of scouring for a good program to draw this up on. Then I realized I would have to spend time to learn a new program, so opted for subpar paint. Anyway, I think everything is solid but I feel like I’m missing something or got something wrong despite constantly researching everything.

I know the loopkey is redundant but I know that is good when it comes to this type of thing. I didn’t choose to go with an antispark because I already have a switch that came with the Unity and I don’t have the antispark connectors for it anyway. (Took me forever to realize that anitspark loopkeys were made differently. I felt like I was missing something when I just couldn’t understand how it worked despite knowing the theory behind it.) Is the loopkey in the correct spot? Maybe it should be on the negative side? Or somewhere else?

Instead of wiring in a voltage display. I am using a Firefly remote and DAVEga combo. Not entirely sure how I’m going to have both work but that’s a problem for later. I know I can at least use at least one.

Last thing is the type of wiring. BMS wires will be of the wires they came with. 22 AWG for the wire with the fuse. As far as I’m concerned, then everything else is 10 AWG wiring? At least the wires that directly connect to the batteries?

Thanks for any of the suggestions and input.

1 Like


omit loop key, its kinda like an arming switch and is just an additional point if failure.

your balance leads go to the positive terminals of the batteries, not the negative terminals.

That’s essentially what I have? Not sure what this tells me. I can confirm that is the bms I have. I came to the conclusion that the B- (which I have labeled as -B on accident) on the connector slot is functionally the same as the part on the side of the bms.

edit: Oh, you made an edit. Okay, I can omit the loopkey. I realize that if I ever had the switch on and inserted the loopkey, I could be in trouble. Otherwise wouldn’t it be fine though?

Isn’t it the same thing basically since where I have it labeled on the negative portions of the battery cells the positive is directly in contact? I can change the labeling to make it easier to read/digest though.

Following. Also need help with the same schematic.


I’ve updated. Took out the loopkey. Unless the wiring is actually wrong or the labeling is off, I’m leaving the bms wiring the same. Because the semantics of connecting it to positive or negative side is virtually the same. They are connected in series going in a snaking fashion. Maybe the labeling would make more sense if I connected to the “positive side” because then the last parallel group wouldn’t look like it was 9 and 10. I do appreciate the feedback though. Anybody else have thoughts? I was hoping to finish up today.

1 Like

Got thesame schematic but mine is a mess :smiley:

1 Like

Why did you remove the loop key? Does the bms have a power switch with it?

They said you can add battery gauge in unity is that true?

You can add a battery gauge to any setup. Just have to wire in line somewhere.

Because my first reply said I should. I didn’t have a reasonable response to say yay or nay and no one else commented. So I went with it. I do have an antispark switch that came with the Unity. It’s just placed through the Unity. I would assume any incoming current goes through that first before anything else in it.

Put the loop key back in. You can put it on the negative side or after your charge port and you’ll be able to charge without turning on the board. If you put it in between the :battery: and bms, you’ll have to turn the board on when charging.

That loop key is your saving grace. Always keep it. Unless they put out a antispark that can uphold to our abuse.

1 Like

Also, you don’t need two positive wires off the battery. Main wire should be 12 or 10awg to xt60. Your charge wire can be 14-18awg but you can just solder the two together @ connection.

U forgot b- coming off bms, that goes to pack main negative

Also why omit a loopkey, how’s it going to be switched on and off?

Put voltmeter after loop key and before unity so u get voltage reading when loopkey is in


the unity has a switch built into it, no need for loopkey. why would you need to turn on board to charge? why u need meter? unity has bt built in, just use app. if u want hardwired meter use antispark to monitor unity 5v rail and make contact for meter leads. its just a fancy switch.


Newly educated lol.

1 Like


1 Like

It’s not built in. It comes with a switch that you connect to your system. As I noted in my first post. I realize it’s redundant but isn’t that what we want? Extra failsafes?

edit: Is it not an antispark? I was led that it was. Regardless I don’t have antispark connectors, so building an antispark loopkey is out of the question. At least for now.

The unity has a push to start feature and auto shut off after a few minutes

the antispark is built into the unity. you just need a way to physically turn it on - thats the physical switch.



Okay, I realized I don’t have any 20awg wires but I do have 16awg. Which would might be fine but doesn’t really match up with what I’m trying to have with my fuse. Is 12awg enough for the battery wires instead of 10? The difference between 41a and 55a?

@akhlut Thanks, now I know the distinction. Still though, you don’t believe the extra failsafe is worth the chance of extra failure? Even if at worse it’s just making a new loopkey?

@thisguyhere I didn’t though? I labeled it wrong but fixed it in this iteration. Also is voltmeter needed? I will have reading on DAVEga and/or Firefly. And can’t the Unity app read it too, like akhlut said? I dunno if the Unity app can read it while the board is off though.