Very cool, I also am working on a 3d printed enclosure (Not nearly as well designed). I solved the delamination issue with some ABS sludge on the heated bed, (mix of acetone and ABS filament). Magnets are very cool solution to mounting. Currently I am using threaded inserts that are used in furniture but I have no idea how long those will last. Do you plan to connect the two boxes with wires across the board or are you routing them a la boosted board style? My first enclosure had two 10 AWG wires that ran down it and I hated it, so I am just hoping that the ABS is flexible enough to bend as one box instead of two.
Here is the first generation, looking to reprint when I extend my 3d printer to a 300x200mm build size.
I havenāt decided how I will route the wires between the battery and VESC. I have just made extensions to my box so if I need more space I can just print another one. Also, if the deck bends, the top of the boxes can open a little bit.Note that no components will be fixed to the enclosure, everything is stuck to the deck itself. See below for diagram.
As for material, I have printed it using PETG which is fusing each layer very well and it doesnāt have the shrinkage issue of ABS.
Yea my deck flexes a bit too and the middle does seem to split if I stand on the middle of it. I have been toying with the idea of making a single enclosure with two halves that are connected with some flexible rubber so that the very middle of the enclosure is flexible yet still watertight.
Thatās a nice enclosure! I designed something similar in 123d and am working on a F360 versionā¦ This is very well done. How long have you been modeling?
hey @JLabs thanks, I am new to modeling. Have designed only small items so far, but watching a lot of youtube videos and trying a lot of stuff. I guess Fusion 360 really made sense for me so thatās what Iām using. And itās free
Still my biggest question is how to attach this to the deck. I think Iāll use 6-32 brass wood inserts. But I need to modify this design so that if I want to add more of the middle sections the holes will continue to line up. But I have printed already what you see there and Iām lazy to do all the calculations for thisā¦but I think Iāll have to do it so that I only have to drill the deck once and at regular spacingā¦
Although it is nice to have threaded inserts on one side, from my experience go with the T-nuts like JLab uses, brass sheers really easily and when screwing mine in about half of them snapped and they almost go through the thickness of the board anyways.
Good job on the 3-D printed enclosure. Doing it in sections so it will flex a little as well as being able to lengthen it in the future is a great idea. You could also add some sort of O-ring or rubber gasket to keep water out. I want to do something very similar for my build. How long does it take you to print the enclosure?
I have been also looking for a solution for fastening enclosure to the bottom of the board. I was thinking of the āDZUSā fastener. They are used for quick panel access in racing applications like motorcycles, airplanes, etc. No tools necessary. Just a spring loaded knob. I provided a link below.
Hey man, that looks awesome! I was wondering if you could share the CAD files with me. I am currently designing my own enclosure, but I am struggling with the slots in the wall for the various items. I was thinking that I could just look at your files and copy the ports. That is all I want. If you could do that for me, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
Hey Mate, Iām a bit late to the game and the link doesnāt seem to work anymore (file not found)! Would you mind putting your model back online? Thanks!
