Don’t mount anything in the middle section where the board flexes. Take a look at other builds there. VESC layout is up to you, you will somehow figure it out in the end. Just make sure you have enough space for it. If you want to run FOC, you will need a huge capacitor(s) to compensate the long wires.
Also, I have measured out that I can likely keep my wires around 45cm, so longer than the recommended 30cm, but not as bad as it could be.
I think I am going to go with printing one of these types of VESC/ Capacitor holders similiar to @Blasto
Hi, sorry for delayed answer. The blue line is 19,5cm and the green one is 13,8cm
Is there anyway you could make something similar than the Boosted Board big enclosure shape and size?, their enclosures match the shape of the board perfectly.
Sure I can! Do you have specific measurements in mind? I am actually making new battery enclosure for my Vanguard that is similar to Boosted enclosure
I’d like to fit two packs of 5S4P on each side of the board, one side must be bigger than the other as it will need to carry 2 vescs and the BMS.
But I’d love to see an enclosure similar than the one pictured by jackw
Well this enclosure is in-theory designed to squeeze a 12S4P into the front and dual VESC in the rear (Rear enclosure not my design) so I bet it’d fit a whole 10S4P, rather than splitting into two 5S4P packs maybe?
Where did you get that design? That’s amazing, hope someone could get the files to 3D print it.
Sorry I should have cleared that up, the front battery enclosure is my own design that I am developing, and the rear case for the VESC is one I downloaded from thingiverse by @emancarrillo. I hope to get it 3D printed or made out of MDF or something to make a mold so I can get it vacuum formed. Possibly by @Dunkirk?
Why not just use the 3D print enclosure in plastic intead of making one of fiberglass?
@jackw That is really good looking 3D model! Only problem is that the enxlosure might bee too long. The enlosure on the 3D model is about 30cm long and will affect to a flex.
@Eboosted I would suggest enclosure “3” on the back and enclosure “3+” on the front. Or two "3+ enclosures on both ends of the board. 3+ can hold 20 cells in total but not BMS
I would love to vacuun form that enclosure desing! But I do not know how well 3D printed plastic can manage when hot plastic sheet is put on to it. Do you know a good material that can be 3D printed and can resist heat at the same time?
I know that people have suggested 3D printing a design and then making a plaster cast of the print; that way the mold isn’t susceptible to the heat of vacuum forming. Bit of a faff mind you.
The easiest, quickest way to reinforce the 3d enclosures is adding Carbon Fiber or Glass Fiber layers inside with resin.
It was 3d printed and reinforced with one CF layer on the inside, I made three of them for a friend of mine, none has been broken yet.
@Dunkirk Yeah it’s rather large, maybe I’m underestimating how much flex it would be under.
I might re-design it as a 12S3P enclosure which would be considerably shorter. Could probably fit that in the same length enclosure as the Boosted Board uses. Probably be more viable.
@MasterCho Thats pretty nifty, I guess you can sand/fill the print to get rid of the print lines and get a nice finish?
Ok, had a re-jig. Now holds a 12S3P with plenty of space in front for BMS etc. It’s now the same size, if not slightly smaller than the Boosted. Meaning it should be fine for the flex, no?
I want to round over the top edges in places but Sketchup is a pain in the proverbial.
That is amazing! Shut up and take my money!!
Do you have 3D files for this!?