I’m refreshing this build thread, after many months of sitting stagnant. I started off with a dream of an awesome cruiser, but had many set backs. Fortunately all of those set backs have turned into great wins so. I present to you Darth Icarus.
Deck: Loaded Icarus Flex 2 w/ Loaded Drop-Through shock pads top and bottom & Riptide #105 Drop-Through Backing Plates
Trucks: SurfRoz 200mm RKP(Red Baseplates, Raw Hangars) w/ SurKeyz & @psychotiller Press on Motor Mounts
Controllers: Enertion Focbox w/Canbus and Traction Control on Sensored FOC
Lighting: Four XM-L T6 Zoomable Tactical Flashlights (2 white 2 red) w/ Meanwell LDD-1000H LED Driver. Custom Mounted to BombSquad Nose Guards
Sound System: 2.1ch Amp, Bluetooth Audio Receiver, 3" 56hz-5khz subwoofer, Two 2" 126hz-22khz full range drivers, Custom Boxes Glassed on BombSquad Nose Guards
Let’s not talk about pushing it… it’ll be fine. I’m 127lb and hardly stress big motors. Which also means I don’t produce alot of Regen current because I don’t have alot of mass.
Sit back and enjoy, it’s happening.
Side note: actual mechanical kv is not 190. See post #1 parts list.
Rad. Gonna do the idler pulleys eh? I wanna see an outer support brace… maybe with a motor shaft support outside as well!!! not telling you how to live your life tho
The enclosure would have to be flareless, no flares no support for the holding screws
A squared flareless enclosure would be possible but your deck would look really bad, chunky and fat
The icarus is extremely flexible, so that array will lead to issues, too many vibrations and thousend of flexions could lead to broken wires and possible fire
I suggest you use a two segment enclosure like the vanguard, but with two battery enclosuse in order to fit the amount of batteries you need and leave the center free
Why…? There is already a bearing between the shaft and the stator housing which is hard mounted to your motor mount. If anything you’re just introducing extra friction into the system. If the two bearing are not aligned perfectly, they will cause a side load which will lead to either bearing becoming seized eventually.
Have you ever had to replace motor bearings? Pressing them out isn’t fun. Having a rider for the shaft will allow the fulcrum center to be closer to the pulley. Decreasing leverage against the motor bearings.
Why else would Boosted do it other then to increase the lifespan of motor bearings? Also…the friction from two bearings is negligible
I just ordered Surfrodz 200mm hanger trucks. What angle base plate did you get?
Also, how did you get the 80mm axles? I only saw 70mm from Surf Rodz. Psychotiller includes 90mm axles with his mounts, but I don’t know if I will need the 90s with a 200mm hanger (his full kit with the trucks includes a 176mm hanger).
If I’m not mistaken… Psychotillers are 176mm hangars with 90mm Axles. I would get his…but they simply won’t clear the deck for me running drop through…would probably be fine for top mount.
You can check Fastenal or message Psychotiller I believe his 80mm are 26 shipped for the 4
Thats easy…ok, easy enough.
I’m not a big fan of flanges and had thought of these alternatives already.
You could do it a couple ways.
The better way… take a skilsaw and set the angle at 45°. Set the depth at around 3/8"/10mm , and cut a channel out of the deck on each side.
But wait!! You need to hot glue a guide to the deck to make it acurate, as well as practice on some scrap unless you’re very competent with a skilsaw… But wait!!! You might want use a thin kerf blade.
Then after test fitting, mix up the resin and insert your Aluminum strips or flat stock carbon, or the glass/Kevlar or whtever flat stock you made and prefer.
These^^ are visible (on the outside) when your enclosure is installed. (abs or kydex or glass, or whatever).
Cap on the rear of the enclosure.
Use T-nuts or sex bolts to attach it to the stingers.
to remove or install the lid, unscrew it, remove the front truck and slide it in/out.
This other way is easier, but meh… becuse 90° Sides…
Get some 1x1x1/8" aluminum angle. Cut out the deck so the flat side sits in it flush.
Glue/screw it to the deck, and make your enclosure go over them. Screw the encl to the angle.
Done.
Edit: where are the oh shit bars getting installed?
It’s fairly easy with an arbor press. I’ve never had an issue but then again not everyone has access to an arbor press…
Gotcha! I hadn’t thought about that. I guess you can’t get any closer than the thickness of your mount plus some clearance so you would decrease your lever arm by that much with an extra bearing.
I’ve never seen a boosted other than from far away.
That isn’t the issue. Lets say your rider bearing is slightly off center from your mounting pattern, I’m talking tenths of a thousand of an inch. With the two bearings so close together, you have very little room for misalignment before you induce a side load on your bearings. At this point you are inducing the issue you are trying to avoid.
I’ve had this exact issue on propulsion drive trains in uavs. You end up over constraining the assembly.
Was thinking about going flush to the edge, and having machined/threaded inserts into the glass, with screws going through the deck like truck hardware.
Oh shit handles are gonna probably end up towards the rear of the middle of the board… Wherever they make the board balanced
not telling you how to live your life tho
