Yep. Same as Bluetooth modules. That’s why I’m having a hard time figuring this out.
Don’t mind the ghetto wiring for now until I make the long extension to reach the back of my deck.
Swap red and green man… 
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I’m going to switch them again and see. I hope you’re right. I’ve done this so many times in two days that I don’t even see the wires or their colors anymore. Fuck… 
Nope. Didn’t work @Kug3lis. Switch them back and forth now and nothing. It looks like it’s stuck where it’s at from the only time I had it working. That one time I had some weird shit happen but didn’t have any time to investigate. Just woke up the next morning thinking it would work like the last night and it doesn’t. Probably something I’m overlooking.
When it worked
Tonight when it didn’t
And yet. I have another question. Will this screen work for this project? I noticed the pin out is different and they have them at a store by my work. Figured I could give it a shot. They have them for $5.00.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2JYZK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might need to reload the Arduino project. I think the display will work but you will need to create leads for the pins so they match the PCB.
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Nice. I’ll see what I can dig up.
@SeanHacker Please be sure to:
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Use the stable version of the FW. Grab the v0.1 from releases. Don’t use what’s in the master, especially not the very latest one. I haven’t yet properly tested it.
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Reset the EEPROM. Your numbers for the distances are way off. That could potentially cause some issues. Just change the EEPROM_MAGIC_NUMBER to a different value before uploading the FW.
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Be sure to have your settings right. If something is too far off, there may be overflow/underflow errors.
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Keep an eye on that blinking dot below the speed value. That’s VESC data updates. Green is successful, red is failed. If it blinks red, you’re not getting data from the VESC. Try increasing the UPDATE_DELAY when that happens, e.g. to 250.
I hope some of this helps. Please do get back if it doesn’t.
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No, that one has a different pinout. It would probably work with the Dave FW, but the PCB would have to be modified.
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I did everything you said and reset EEPROM, switched to v.01, and changed UPDATE_DELAY to 250. Everything looks better now without the screwy numbers. Still not getting vesc data yet. But when I get home tonight I’ll screw around with it some more. Any other suggestions are always welcome. Thanks again!
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All should be good software wise now. If it’s still not working, that must be a hardware problem. Please check that the TX, RX wires have a good connection and are not swapped. The VESC TX goes to the pin labeled TX on the PCB (which is connected to the RX pin on the MCU).
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Sweet. Sounds good. I’ll swap the wires and check everything out. 
I got this backwards :). I assumed it would be like the HM-10 modules where they were reversed.
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OK, here’s the enclosure. If you wanna jump straight to the STL’s, here ya go.
This is the actual print of the housing, its a low res print in PETG at 100% infill with a 4mm shell, you can stand on it so it’s unlikely to break.
DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing
My renderings aren’t great, I didn’t have a lot of time as I was sneaking this in at work .
In the next 4 images you will see DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing A (pic 1) & B Pic 2 -4). The only difference is the lock that fits in the the slot on the base. DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing A has no lock, B has a lock. The lock is for people that want to be able to remove the VeGa faster, by using only 2 screws.
These are the different bases. DaVeGa Riser v2 Housing Base A is easier to seal, has cutouts for truck mount hardware and has multiple mounting slot options (all of the mounting slots are chamfered for use with recessed screws). Base B is made for people with using X-Braces or top mount trucks. Both bases come in a version with a lock slot and without.
Here’s the links for the STL’s if you want to print it. Please post pics if you decide to print it, I love seeing my work in the wild :).
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218890
EDIT: I forgot to mention a couple of things.
1 There are slots for 3 buttons, but only 1 is through all, but the other 2 can be drilled out with a 4mm bit.
2. The housing goes to a 2mm shell at the top, this is to allow enough room for the hardware while keeping the housing as short as possible. I used a lot of filets to increase the strength.
3. I made it wider than I originally planned so the housing could cover the truck hardware and sit outside of it in case people are using recessed bolts.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I finally got it working. I think the couple screens I got are screwed. They both blink and black screen when connected (even when connected to the uno). So I’ll have to source some of the 2.0 screens from somewhere. Anyone know where to get them fast?
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@mmaner Great work! Thanks a lot. One question: How do you attach the PCBs to the enclosure? It seems the mounting holes in the top part are supposed to be only used for screwing it to the bottom part, but the screws wouldn’t go through the PCBs, correct?
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The screws pass all the way through the housing, electronics into the base. It’s pretty snug. I plan on using a rubber sheet in the bottom since I’m not using headers. I printed a complete housing last night, I’ll assemble it today and post pics.
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I like a nice rubber sheep… 
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Very nice, I was starting to design something similar.
I’ve ordered two of these which to use just below the panel, it’s going to be a tight fit. They’re quite small, 8mm panel hole.
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Those pretty long 
I wanted to use something similar they are like 1-2cm length or something similar
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