DD Mad Speed. Mad hubs DD conversion kit Build

I set it to 4167. I made a quick proportion from your value. But I think half is fine Since you don’t want to go reverse lower should prevent thst a bit, stil not final solution for me. Should make an active braking mode that stops as soon you actually go reverse. Maybe I will try a - 500/1000. Just for science. It really brakes hard. Now slide is so easy :joy:

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Maybe -1000erpm.

Yes that what I am gonna try next. Plus the nano X has short throw. I am waiting the Flipsky for a while now. I will play with the curve to make it less invasive during braking so to engage the 100% really at the end.

The value doesn’t matter. The less the better because you are not thrown off the board if you accidentally forget to let go of the brake as the board will start moving back… However motor cogging happens if it’s too low. You can set it to 1000, 500 etc and see the effect.

It doesn’t affect the braking strength, only the reverse speed…what affects the braking strength is the -motor current.


That’s true. Maybe my - 70A is too much! :grin:I will lower it. Although sliding is pretty cool I left nice C sign at the turns.

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Yea, we have set -55 on @Skyart15 s units. Board was literally rolling downhill while he was on full brakes with no load. So I figured the only way to have better downhill brakes is your active braking method.

  • 60
  • -55
  • 30
  • -14

Yeh if you brake at lower than 5 kmh they just sill. I am use to step off or foot stop the last 3km but better like that.

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I have reached - 20A battery min but Yeh same thing.

Anyhow you don’t have to open the enclosure. If you have metr for unity or a hm10 bluetooth too for the other vescs in TCP works great

Yeah yeah, I understand that and know that would happen with direct drives. All I am saying is that is with the “current” mode, the value of reverse erpm doesn’t affect the braking strength, only the reverse speed of the board.

Your -55 motor current will work a lot better with “current” mode, because before when the ESC would effectively short the three phases, not even close to -55 would be passing.

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There was a post by longhairedboy in esk8 news forum that you don’t really need anything beyond -7 or -14. You only hurt your battery cells if you go beyond that.

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I know but then I read what Temapa explained and indeed I never see that value anyway in my riding logs. Anyway now with active braking doesn’t need to be high anymore.

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We have been figuring out his BT module he got from flipsky. It’s not connecting for some reason. I suspect it doesn’t support Android OS 9.

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Is he using Fesc or what? It’s a possiblity. I have modules that works on all the Android version or you can flash them. In the past I was doing that for people. I flashed so many :sweat_smile:

The Bluetooth will directly connect from the app. It’s not a regular Bluetooth that you need to pair. Try the vesc-tool app

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Yeah fsesc

Yes. Fsesc6.

The vesc tool android app?

That’s what I use with my fs 6.6

He is on ackmaniac fw. Not sure if Vesc tool app supports it.

We have been trying it on ackmaniac app.

Of course @mishrasubhransu you are talking about the vesc app that require metr or tranpa module is more advance. Hm10 is a simple BLE that will work with the vesc tool on PC in TCP bridge. It’s slow but works