It was turning on when I rolled it, thought that was part of it being faulty. But yeah, it works fine when plugged in, soon as I unplug it it dies. The battery pack seems to be glued in there with hot glue.
Check the voltage on the battery when itās not plugged in. Donāt accidentally short it.
Should be over 3.0V/cell (3*7 = 21V total) and not over 4.2V/cell (4.2*7 = 29.4V)
Got nothing to do that with right now, uhm the street was a little wet but the inside all seems dry and I was going up a mild incline when it messed up. My guess is the current running through the switch while pushing me up the hill shorted it. Gonna jump on YouTube and find out how the switches are installed then uninstall it. If I set it without a switch I can just plug and unplug yeah? Not as good as a loop key but should work? If itās the battery Iāll know next week when I get the replacement lipo pack.
I would find out whatās wrong first. Once you find whatās the problem then you can devise solutions.
Uhm, could it be loose connection? I was going over a red brick promenade when it messed up and this connection for the power switch looks a tad loose. I once pushed my new motorbike for an hour till I got to a streetlight, popped the seat off and realised Iād knocked the engine management thing loose.
Also noticed a kinda not good bit of soldering at the charge port.
I was going to suggest if it had an antispark, that you replace it. Iāve only heard bad things about those cheap(er than most) Chinese ones.
Can we see pictures of your esc? With the green paper off as much as possible?
Itās also probably worth it to try and do some proper cable managementā¦ Might help you diagnose your board at the very least
Theres a little red light on the circuit board that lights up for a second when I press the power button.
So the guy at the hobby shop reckons itās the battery, which Iāve taken out.
Can I replace this with a lipo equivalent and use a voltage alarm/balance charger?
Xt-60 connector on it and a little charge lead.
Well yeah itās the same voltage, but itās also a completely different shape.
That pack in your board is made of 18650 cells, the round type.
Yeah I realised right after that it wouldnāt fit in the battery case. At this point Iām thinking Iāll get a couple of 3s lipoās and running them in series to get 6s. Theyāll definitely fit. the esc says 22v-50v so Iām guessing that wonāt be a problem though I might lose a bit of speed? Iāll be getting a balance charger and running the balance cables to a voltage alarm set in the board near the main case so I donāt have to crack it open every time I charge.
While it may support various voltages, it may require you to reprogram it for the proper voltages (not possible) or to resolder some jumpers on the PCB to āmanuallyā reprogram it.
This is really starting to feel like a classic case of throwing good money after bad. Youāre trying to resurrect a limited board instead of spending your time and money in a more beneficial direction.
You do you, but a used Wowgo or Ownboard would be a significant upgrade in power, reliability and range for not a lot of money.
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exactly! I bought a similar board for my 5yo nephew , it at least had dual hubs, I got it cheap mainly for samsung cells in the battery - sadly I screwed up instantly and plugged the 7s into a 10s charger and destroyed all the cells - I was going to do something with this board but its sat in my junk box since its SIMPLY NOT WORTH THE TIME AND $$$ to fix.
Do you have a multi meter? If so check the voltage coming from the battery. This will tell you if the battery is defective.
Most likely all you did was kill the bms. Remove it and the pack will probably come to life. I have an old chinese 10s3p that I killed the bms on and it is still going strong, in the board for a few months then now as my bench power supply. Holds its balance through charges too. Worth a go.
I must admit I thought that too, but it continued charging and cells are ALL under 1v now, cells are my ādumbass setā I use for prototyping and as a reminder about chargers 
Edit : that said I did use the TKP trucks/hubs on my 80s Powell for a while - thane was terrible but it was fun.
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Just about to start planning a build round an old santa cruz skull that I have had since 96 Hubs and an alloy enclosure. Pure kerb rider.
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I have a 90s muska beats that is getting a dual diagonal mounted but I am having a hard time drilling it (was a cruiser and survived surprisingly well)
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Okay, after all that Iām thinking you guys might be right, anything I buy to get it running is gonna be underpowered to use as spares for my next build. Iām in touch with the eBay seller, they want a video of the problem, hopefully once I do that theyāll just send me a spare battery and I can use it till I have something better, if not I can at least keep the motor/trucks and parts case for my trick deck commuter, I only want that to cruise slowly to the park. Will I be able to re-pair the remote to a new reciever? Expensive mistakes are pretty much the only way I learn it appears. Also if you guys have any suggestions on an affordable and reliable complete deck or hub kit thatās available in Australia thatād be cool. Thanks for putting up with the noob, I appreciate it.