Did anybody successfully run a inrunner on a vesc?

As the title says, curious to know if anybody actually did an inrunner build with a vesc that works? Got plenty of advice to “forget RC esc!” and “buy a vesc 6” but so far all i’ve seen are horror stories of erpm problems and overheating issues in regards to outrunners so I am very curious if anybody actually have some real life experience with this?

Im planning a inrunner build, hence the question :slight_smile: Jah Bless :slight_smile:

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Where would you find an inrunner with a low kv thats also equipped with a sensor lead? Or maybe you’re planning to run sensorless and just do rolling starts?

Oh wow, they do exist. But 300kv seems a bit high. Do they go lower than this?

Im doing 1700kv :wink:

And before any rants about not being possible please check this thread out:

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Sounds interesting. So how durable is a 5mm 9t pinion? I hope thats steel and not some soft T6061 aluminum.

From what I’ve managed to learn by reading @MoeStooge’s threads, given a steel pinion it will need to be checked every 50 miles or so for wear, they are like 6 euros each so not an expensive replacement :slight_smile:

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I’ve got no room to talk since my first build will have 2 aluminum belt pulleys on the primary drive. But those are 22t and 34t respectively.

I always raise an eyebrow whenever I see small pinions/sprockets/pulleys. Like, isnt that thing going to wear out prematurely?

Doesnt matter what kind of vehicle we’re talking about, small pulleys dont last as long. Like a 13t sprocket on a 100cc dirt bike. You know it wont last.

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If you are interested in the topic check this out:

Check out @MoeStooge 's race builds for inspiration on inrunners. He designs and manufactures the whole boards from scratch

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1350kv @ 8s. Too low voltage for my taste. But he did say hes getting more than a year from those hardened steel pinions. Not bad.

Age restricted yotube videos tho. No bueno. I dont want a youtube account. Evil google tracks us enough as it is.

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For reference. Mod.8 (32p) 5mm shaft 11/72 900kv 8s 10,200Kw 120mm wheel was used on this run.

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Anything that needs to be checked every 50 miles — aside from battery charge or fuel level — is either built wrong, or it’s built for racing or some other super-specialized application.

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Sorry should have been clearer on the fact that this was 50 miles of hard RACING, not casual use :slight_smile: Not sure how often belts needs to be changed but i heard that weather differentials are a bitch and they snap like twigs in the cold but this is pure hearsay, but i would think they also are subject to mechanical wear during hard braking and acceleration?

Cold doesn’t affect belts at all. Certain types of snow snap belts like toothpicks. A lot of types of snow don’t affect them at all. Belts are pretty good and hard to beat, really. Gears can offer SOME advantages but most esk8 gears on the market are plastic, and I would never use plastic gears again. Period. Steel gears (motor and wheel) or belts or chains. Gears also come with a lot of disadvantages though.

It totally depends what you’re optimizing for.

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Thanks for clarifying! Plastic gears sound like a recipe for brakes giving in when they REALLY shouldnt,

Would have gone the belt route if possible but i dont see how i could get the gearing for my 1700kv working with that, hence the “spur approach”, also quite curious as to why no one else did it when @MoeStooge clearly had great success on his builds, seems straightforward enough and he’s detailed methods and materials well if you just plow through the threads :slight_smile:
Chains also seem hard to fit in that gearing so why reinvent the spur? lol

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If you need gearing that high, have you considered a two-step reduction? So for example you have four gears and three axles. One axle in the motor, one in the wheel, and an extra axle with two gears on it, a large and a small.

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I did consider it breifly but intuitively feels like more parts to find and more stuff to replace eventually but I will confess that i did not research the idea as deeply as i should, will do that now thanks! Oh and if you have any links detailing the concept please do share :smiley:

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Honestly, I would use a lower Kv motor.

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