don’t take my word for it being correct. I said it looks correct, i would have made only array where i would plug all lipos into to make it 12s, not make on 8s and wire it around and hang one additional 4s. Edit: i shouldn’t have said it is correct, my bad. So i retract that, i should only state that i am 100% sure off.
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Ah yeah that would be smarter. Thanks! I will wait for confirmation from others 
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Check that parallel connector. Are you sure it’s wired properly?
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Which one do you mean, the anti-spark?
The battery parallel connector you covered on the bottom of the pic
I don’t think that’s a parralel connector, it’s a series
Yeah thats all good. Before i bought another battery I used that plug and that was already checked and well. By other guys from the forum
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Yeah its a series connector.
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My apologies series is correct. How about the Xt90s loop you made? Is the resistor end board side?
If that is a series connector then your wiring is fine, when you draw it with the long wires it does look a little sketchy but I understand, you have to make do with what space you have available
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Ehm I am guessing you are talking about the Xt90 spark plug loop right? Sorry dont know all the terms. What do you exactly mean with resistor end board side? Ah @Benjamin899 got it haha.
It should only be on one side of that Xt90s but it’s usually on the key part, not the board part. Also I usually see them on the positive wires, not negative. Regardless, your drawing shows the loopkey wired backwards. Officially calling in @b264 to confirm.
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I was thinking about getting a multimeter for future build improvements etc. Is this a good one to buy? Or is there another one you guys would recommend. https://hobbyking.com/nl_nl/handheld-digital-multimeter-set-an8009-orange.html
Fluke or tenma are good brands. Even a cheap one will get you by in many situations.
yeah a cheap one for starters is all you need. Basicly what you need is measuring Volt,Amps and Resistance.
Thanks. I get what you mean now. It seems like your vesc is trying to brake when you pull the trigger. I guess you’ve already done the motor detection and remote setup successfully, but it might be worth double checking the remote settings to see if everything looks correct.
Ok thanks. I will get on that now.
Ok so the issue I am having right now is that when i pull the trigger the amperage goes from arround -0.1A to between -0.05A to -0.15A rapidly varing between those values. When i pull the break there is a positive Amperage. I cant figure out how I am supposed to flip those values.
But you board works? In my bms app I also get negative amps when pulling amps and positive when braking?