DIY Eboard Builds and Specs

I don’t know about you guys, but I like to sit and look at pictures of new builds…Sometimes I even like to read about all of the specific parts that were used to complete such sexy forms of transportation. :smirk: :open_mouth: :stuck_out_tongue: :relaxed:

Post some pics of your favorite boards and give me some details!


Yeah, I agree! who doesn’t want to see some sweet DIY eboard builds…

@psychotiller Maybe you can dig up some of your old photos and kick the topic off… I am slightly embarrassed about my first build… so you can go first.

P.S. I moved this into the “E-board Builds” category

OK SO HERE’S MY BUILD THREAD This is my first ever eboard! So be nice!

I want to share my build process and ideas in the hope that it will contribute some useful info back into this fantastic forum, as well as showing that someone without any experience can build a fairly decent e-board.

I definitely could not of achieved this build without the huge amount of info submitted freely by others on this forum, so THANKS. I’m also open to & asking for feedback on my build, such as; possible improvements OR just PRAISE for a job well done! :lol:

I plan to write this Build Thread using as much detail as practicably possible. I will also break my Build Log into four parts in the hope that it makes it easier to read: PART ONE: WHAT TOOLS DO YOU NEED TO BUILD AN E-BOARD PART TWO: RESEARCHING & BUYING PARTS PART THREE: BUILDING THE E-BOARD PART FOUR: TESTING & REFINING THE BUILD

Before I get into each section I want to briefly talk about my thought process, specifically what led me to build an e-board vs buying one ‘off-the-shelf’. I had started to see more and more e-boards getting advertised online not to mention the few start-ups such as ‘boosted boards’ and after watching the TED TALK about it I was sold on the idea & I seriously thought about just buying one pre-built off the shelf or throwing in a pledge to the kickstater campaign to get a boosted board… I am really glad I didn’t…and seriously who has $1200+ spare?

So It must of been June or July-ish 2013, when I first saw Beetbocks holey truck mount! The moment I laid eyes on that thing I was super desperate to get my own electric powered skateboard but now the plan was to build-my-own electric powered skateboard. I started to read the 40+ page thread by Beetbocks and realised I had no idea what they where talking about… I knew I had a lot to learn about this stuff before I could ever build my own e-board…

Well several months later I have a working board and it is FUCKING AWESOME fun… So my advice to whoever is reading this who doesn’t have an e-board start planning now it’s not as hard as it might seem, YOU CAN DO IT!. So Start planning your build today!

PART ONE: WHAT TOOLS DO YOU NEED TO BUILD AN E-BOARD These are the tools I used during construction, you might not need all of them but probably most of them. Also at the bottom a list of useful materials that I used in the build

Cordless drill Jigsaw Dremel Angle Grinder Soldering Iron & Soldering Clamp / Assistant Pop riveter Socket Set Allen keys Screw Drivers Rubber Mallet Hammer Ruler & Measuring Calipers Multi-Grip Needle Nose Pliers Stanley knife Cigarette Lighter Metal file Sander, Sand Paper Decent Work bench Sewing Machine


3-4mm rubber sheeting Aluminium Angle Aluminium Flat Bar Black Plastic Milk Crate (This was cut down and used to create the chassis which all the electrical components mounted onto) Velcro (with self-adhesive backing & without) Nylon Strapping Washers of various sizes Nuts & Bolts Cable Ties Super Glue / Loctite Solder

I wanted to minimize the amount of stuff that I had to spend money on during the build, so I built the electrical components chassis mostly out of the spare parts & scrap that I had laying around the garage.


This stage for me was the most confusing, I am not familiar with RC parts and found it extremely difficult working out what I actually needed. Also I live in Australia so buying the stuff everyone else was using to build their e-boards was a bit more difficult but mostly more expensive (SHIPPING TO AUS IS FN EXPENSIVE)

but eventually everything fell into place when I read this post from ‘LOSTMD’ everything seemed to make a lot more sense and the task seemed achievable now I knew exactly what to buy! - I love when people just tell you what works! THANKS LOSTMD

So originally I was going to buy the bare minimum an just build a SINGLE REAR DRIVE E-BOARD, this would be cheaper by several hundred dollars compared to the popular DUAL DRIVE OPTION (which is what I really wanted) However I was on a tight budget so would have to make do with a single motor!

At this stage I calculated that the parts I would need would Cost just over $700 delivered to AUS. I was happy with that.

AT THIS POINT A BIG THANKS GOES TO FORUM MEMBER JACOB! He sold me he’s spare alien parts (DUAL caliber mounts kits & motors) and that made things happen allot faster & cheaper than if I had to buy it all from overseas! thanks again Jacob.


I also decided to Frankenstein my old-school freestyle deck to save about $100

So here are the parts I ended up with


Its not a long board! IT WILL BE ONLY 29-INCHES WHEN COMPLETE Trying to save money so used a deck I already had this saved about $100 Re-drilled the front truck bolt holes to push the truck to the front of deck (I also did this with the back trucks later to maximize wheel base)… this will give me some extra room for components and maybe improve stability! Looks tough too! Cut some radical shapes into it to prevent WHEEL BITE! Made an extra riser out of some 4mm rubber stuff (to add to the super slim ones I already had) hopefully to prevent WHEEL BITE! and maybe absorb some extra vibrations to give a super smooth ride!

At this stage I took it for a test ride today to see how the Caliber trucks perform on a small deck & to see if my radical deck modifications ‘feel’ ok…

THE SETUP FEELS PRETTY AWESOME… LOOKS FUNKY TOO… I also guess its rather lightweight compared to a long board… can you say “POWER TO WEIGHT RATIO”?

First thoughts after test ride - The bushings that come standard with the caliber trucks are very soft, probably great for a long board, but I weigh 90kgs and they are just too Juicy for this type of ‘short deck’. So I pulled some harder bushings from my other skateboards to see if i can tighten things up a bit. I got it pretty good but if I went any faster there would probably be problems with the ride quality…

So I ordered some VENOM SHR ELIMINATOR BUSHINGS 94a $17ea from (free shipping). I didn’t want to spend the money but I also know that having the right setup is super important especially if you are planning to go fast-ish. Anyway I read somewhere these bushings are meant to be pretty good, so well see how they go with my setup. I Personally like my boards to be fairly stiff and this deck allows for lots of foot leverage (huge kick) which helps to steer when you have tight trucks & hard bushings, which is what I am trying to achieve.

The ABEC 11 Flywheels I have are 83mm @ 75a (they are huge but awesome - biggest wheels :shock: I have ever had!). They are super soft and feel great under foot, should be very comfortable cruising at high speeds. NOTE: very slippy in the wet! pulling some awesome 4 wheel power slides today after the rain stopped!.


[size=150]PHOTOS OF MY BUILD AFTER SOME ELECTRONICS ARRIVE[/size] Made some good progress thanks to JACOB! I Didn’t have to wait weeks for parts to arrive and now I have Mounted dual rear NTM Prop Drive 50-60 270KV / 2400W! FN awesome!

Its going to be crazy on this board… very short board 74CM (29INCH)

I also slightly modified the deck (again), I cut the huge kick down, it was JUST TOO HUGE! I realized after riding the board around the streets that it was just not perfectly balanced & probably going to be a problem during acceleration as it was way to easy to accidentally put your foot weight down on the huge kick and POP mono’s. MONO + ELECTRO POWER BOOST = BAD. It also gave me way too much leverage over the trucks which made wheel bite more likely (even with the super hard bushings)… Also I pushed the rear trucks further back hopefully to improve overall stability & handling.



NOTE: I had to put 3 extra axle washers on each side of the truck to provide the extra space. So this is a total of 4 axle washers each side sitting between the inside bearing and the hanger. This resulted in a 1mm gap between the motors. I think the washers are about 0.5mm thick.


When it came to wiring this together I basically copied beetbocks setup… This still actually took many hours to complete, I was a bit nervous and really never done anything like this before, basically I didn’t want to screw it up so worked very methodically!


I used heat shrink tube stuff on all my wires & solder joints and made sure I used ASS LOADs of solder so everything was strong! I don’t want to pull it apart I didn’t want the hassle of needing to remove the battery to charge so I tried to design the chassis to have the necessary connectors fixed in place & easily accessible The black plastic thing - that the battery is strapped to is actually made from a BLACK PLASTIC MILK CRATE … it just so happened that the side panel of the Milk Crate had the perfect dimensions for the battery to sit inside, it is also made out of very strong - nearly unbreakable plastic, however was really easy to work with!

I also tried my hardest to make it look really neat & semi-professional??? I personally don’t like wires all over the place and because this deck is tiny so I had to JAM everything into a neat small package!

So I built a raised platform (out of milk crate plastic & various aluminium profiles) to mount the ESC, this created an area underneath where all the excess cables can be positioned and where I mounted the momentary switch for the anti-spark & also the xt90 for the kill switch & on the otherside the xt60 for charging the battery. The ESC is held in place with stainless steel pipe clamps that i had laying around Notice the Leads from each motor are crossing each other and connecting to the opposite side of the ESC, this seems to work out the best as the wires that come from the motors are really stiff and naturally where heading across to the other side of the ESC, therefore I let them sit the way they naturally wanted and connecting them to that opposite side, this is also allowing slightly longer wires (which are nice & flexible) to come out of the ESC. - Having the wires positioned in this way they don’t restrict the truck movement.


So after months of research & waiting & building I got to go on my FIRST RIDE! sooo much fun!

I played around in the street testing firstly so I could easily head back inside to the computer to program in any changes I wanted to make in the ESC software.

This is what i have configured currently it seems good for me.

So I figured I should go for a ride to the bottle shop & get some beer!

On my way home a funny noise was coming from my board… mmmm So looks like I lost some motor screws! DAMM IT!

HOT TIP: Use Loctite!

But the other thing I noticed was that the caliber mount was also moving/swaying (at the motor end) just slightly, 1-2mm from left to right when forced. This is a MAJOR problem for me because I don’t really have any room for movement in my setup! I could actually see that the wheel pulley had made contact with a motor mount screw…

This picture is for illustration purpose only - so you can better understand the movement I am trying to explain

So after I walked home, with three screws less then I started with and a clamp that was striking against the screw I realized I needed to do a bit more work!

Firstly I tried to tighten the caliber mount to prevent it moving, but I nearly broke the allen key… It was super tight already! but there was still a slight amount of ‘play’ this meant that when the motor was pulling hard during acceleration (or maybe braking) the caliber mount became slightly misaligned I also assume this slight movement might also add unwanted vibration or some other unknown problems might occur because of it…


Firstly I put loctite onto all the motor screws & pulley grub screw and they haven’t’t budged I also made up two cross braces using some threaded rod and some other bits-n-pieces I bought some longer stainless steel bracket screws that screw through the entire width of the Alien Caliber Mount plus about 10mm more on the inside, therefore allowing me to screw directly into the ends of the cross braces as they have the same 4.0mm thread on each end.

So this is what I came up with to ‘brace’ the caliber mounts and totally eliminate all movement - THE MOUNTS ARE ROCK SOLID NOW -


Haha! Ok here goes…My first E-build, if I could call it that, was a La Grange L1 set up from RedRock Boardshop. I remember stumbling onto one of their ads and was amazed at nice their rear truck was. After doing a little research I figured out that their truck was being made by Surfrodz which sealed the deal for me.

I still had no idea what batteries to use and reading all of their tutorials made my head fuzzy. The one thing I knew though was I wanted the biggest outrunner I could fit on their truck. They suggested a 6374 motor from hobbyking so I ordered it. I also went to my local hobby shop that day and bought what they suggested. (Two Pulse 6s 60c 5500mah lipo bricks.) That night at online I ordered a set of These 75mm wheels, a custom speed board from Ryan Ehlers, Some big stupid RC controller, and a Castle Mamba Monster ESC.

In about 2 weeks I had all of my parts in my house. I basically binge built this board overnight and just about as the sun rose I powered the board up. After maybe an hour of trying to get the controller to sync with the receiver the wheel let out a roar and scared the crap out of me!

I took my first lap and then another…I couldn’t believe how fast this thing was compared to my old Exskate! It didn’t take long though for me to feel a need to make my own components. There were just too many things I could immediately see were in need of improvement. And so it began.

I didn’t really take too many pictures of my first build so what I’m going to do is show you pictures of all of my boards in succession.

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Out of all of my builds this is the one I’m most happy with. 40" drop deck, Caliber Trucks, Turnigy G160 motor, Matco 2x6 tires, Castle XL2 ESC, 2 x 4s 5000mah batteries in series. Geared 14/40. I’m waiting on a new switch right now so its on the bench. On this build, I made the motor mount, 6"pneumatic wheels and electronics enclosure. I can reach 45+mph (scary) (I’m old) and it’s buttery smooth and stable.


Yeah, thats a beast! I love those Matco Tyres… makes it look so beasty… i love the hazy effect on the lens… makes it look much more sexy…lol

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13 pounds, 6S, 23mph, 4.5 miles, external charging and balancing ports. Enertion ESC, 63mm 245kv motor. This board can ollie ok, pop down 2-3 stairs, built for fast hard commute between buses, charge at work.I use a short wide board because they more aggressive performance are way easier to transport on a bus. I do 4 miles each direction to from work everyday plus weekend errands, approx 2000 miles a year. I really thrash it, ride in the rain etc. I have had some issues here and there with wear, batteries, bearings and i wear out alloy pulley wheels quicker than you would think.


Love it! Nothing like a short wheel base to get the blood pumping in the morning.

I have now switched to use steel for my motor pulleys… alum was wearing down too quickly.

Dialed! Finally, I’m done making changes to this build. 6" custom aluminum pneumatic wheels with 6x2 tires. Custom fully adjustable motor mount. 63mm 290KV Turnigy G160 motor . Geared @ 14/40. Castle XL2 ESC. 2 x Multistar 4s 10000mah batteries in series for 8s 330wh!!! New enclosure for batteries and ESC/New enclosure for charge lead, balance leads, Wiimote and loop switch.


Looking good bro!.. loving that case design.

However that g160 is looking lonely… do the right thing and find a buddy for him to play with.

Dual motors baby!!

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Haha ok. I’ll do it. I need another xl2 though too.

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What belt width is on this? looks like 15mm

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Yeah 15mm. I think 2 g160s would fit though with 15mm belts. I’ll check it tonight.

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Soo close…I’ll have to use 9mm. Doing so, I’d be able to squeeze everything in place.

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9mm with dual is ample. I defo like the 15mm for single though

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Is that a custom engraved washer?

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Yeah, it came off of a motorcycle of mine.

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That’s a nice setup dude! I like the big wheels. This setup is something I had in mind for my daily commute to work in Scotland. The pavements/roads over here are terrible and the ABEC11 76mm 75a Gumball wheels I currently have are okay to roll over those mild cobbles.

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Thanks! Yeah, I really like how these wheels turned out. Super expensive though when all said and done. I may have to machine more myself.

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so I figured I would throw my two current boards up here just for fun, even though both are pretty clearly in the prototype stages…

first, my arbor 46inch pintail: castle 150amp mm2 speed control -SUPER programmable, and highly recommend for 6s boards, but I really want 8s for this build at some point, so I am probably going to the xl2… enertion 50mm 245kv motor (soon to be updated to 63mm 190kv) enertion motor mount turnigy 5000 mah 6s (soon to be two, 4s 5000mah in series) abec 11 flywheels on caliber trucks, and of course, the arbor deck!

I am sorta setting this up like a boosted board: esc + motor in the back, battery in the front, nothing but deck in the middle. I was worried about deck flex for this build, so thats my compromise…

I really like the idea of wood enclosures, but I am still playing around with how I want to put one together. for this build, Its really thin wood, I think 1/4 inch, glued together to make the box, and then finished with a coat of black, and a coat of clear. I am am still just testing with different things, so let me know if you got any ideas.

So now for my most recent build…5 inch pneumatics

5 inch enertion pneumatics space cell torqueboards 12s esc (castle BEC) enertion 190kv motor caliber trucks on an old stella deck.

again, went with a wood encloser, but this time, I used no glue, only screws. Also, the side peices are 3/4 of an inch thick, so thats why I could screw into them this time… Now this case is super prototype, and I just want to see its structural integrity- thats why it only got a clear coat, and looks pretty crude.

all the components in the board are held down by this plumbers tie down stuff, and then the case is just set over everything. The space cell is up on foam to protect against some deck flex, but this board has almost none- also, the case sit up high with a gap between the board and it- this also protects against some flex, and is because of the plumbers tie down screw heads…